minor rant... license plate mounting

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jtk

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I've had my new car (Mazda 3) for about a month now. Today I went down to the WeatherTech factory store to get some liners, and I decided to get some plate frames while I was there also because my current ones are the cheapies from the dealer.

When I got home and started installing the frames, I noticed 2 things: both front and back only use 2 screws to attach the plate to the car. The front is a separate mount that could be replaced so whatever, it's cheap but fine. In the back it just screws directly into the bumper! Cheap and also seems like it's not going to last at all, unless I never take the plates off. Why is it so hard to integrate a decent mount for the plate into the bumper? I don't get it. And it seems like one of the holes must be stripped already, they don't really tighten down very well. Super annoying, to be honest. It looks like dealer prep guy just screwed them on with a power screwdriver.

And then the ClearFrame seems decent, until you find out the solution for using it with only 2 mounting screws: use the included machine screws and bolts for the bottom holes. But, that leaves the bolts exposed and sticking out from the back of the plate, and in my case, that means the bolts will be in direct contact with the paint on the rear bumper. Also annoying.

OK, I think I'm done now.
 
I know what you mean. My front was literally drilled into the plastic. And where they drilled, left a hairline split thats obvious next to the screw. Either put mounts for the front like I have in the back. Or get rid of stupid front license plate laws.
 
Ive had two of their clearframes and they yellow and go bad over time. There customer service blamed car chemicals. I have since moved to Altec and to date happy with product. They all seem quite similar in design, I hope not to replace it annually due to South Florida Sun and UV rays.
 
Oh yeah, I've had that happen before too. I also had a cop tell me I had to remove the cover because it would obscure the i-pass (tollway) reader. However, this is the frame without the plate cover, it still has the gasket though. I have to put new registration stickers on the plate every year so I didn't want to deal with taking it all apart every time I do that.
 
My rear plates only have the 2 screws so the bottom part of the plate is in contact with the paint. I used 2 balls of Blue Tack pushed under each corner. They stick well and the are no vibrations at all. Might have to change them every once in awhile, no big deal. Also it not supposed to do any damage to the paint- I did put a couple coats of Collinite 845 underneath the plate.
 
Aha! That's a good idea. I think I already have some blu tack too. Thanks!
 
Just wanted to sat thanks again. The blue tac worked perfectly. In fact, I think I would use it even if I wasn't trying to prevent scratches!
IMAG0054.jpg
 
I use Blue tac alot around the house. It's great for stopping vibrations from a sub woofer, usually pictures hanging on walls. There's nothing worst than irritating noises when trying to watch movies. I'm glad I could help.
 
Very cool idea. Just got my new tags in for my new car and was wondering how to solve this problem.
 
Here's a dumb trick I picked when I was a plumber's apprentice...

Teflon Tape, the kind used on your water pipes, can be wrapped around any screw's threading before being screwed into it's fixture to permanently prevent it from rusting. This saves you from not only having to keep penetrating oil handy but also from rust stains forming. Just make sure it's not a high-temp installation where the Teflon tape may melt. It also adds a little thickness to the threading in cases where the fixture is stripped and the screw can't "bite in" properly...

I've use this trick

Lucky Joe,
Wannabe Detailer

Sent from my HTC DNA
 
Just go to Lowes and get some self adhesive bump stops. I think they have different sizes and shapes. Just measure how thick of a one you need.
 
jtk said:
Oh yeah, I've had that happen before too. I also had a cop tell me I had to remove the cover because it would obscure the i-pass (tollway) reader. However, this is the frame without the plate cover, it still has the gasket though. I have to put new registration stickers on the plate every year so I didn't want to deal with taking it all apart every time I do that.
Click to expand...

I-pass works with a transponder on the inside of the windshield, doesn't it?
 
Hellspawn said:
I-pass works with a transponder on the inside of the windshield, doesn't it?
Click to expand...
Maybe what cop should have said is that sometimes the transponder doesn't record the "Cha-ching" so, my understanding is the camera on the overhang records the license plate and the toll is then still charged to the person with the mis-fired transponder.

:dunno:Just guessing, could be wrong.
 
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