Mix 105 with Poli-Seal?

dublifecrisis

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I love mixing products!

Anyone ever try M105 mixed with Poli-seal? With the right process M105 can finish down nicely, even on darker colored cars. For a beefed up AIO, what do you folks think about mixing 105 and PS either 50/50 or maybe less 105 and more PS like 80/20?
 
I love mixing products!

Anyone ever try M105 mixed with Poli-seal? With the right process M105 can finish down nicely, even on darker colored cars. For a beefed up AIO, what do you folks think about mixing 105 and PS either 50/50 or maybe less 105 and more PS like 80/20?

Try it and let us know.

I've heard of adding a couple of drops of Optimum Polish to the pad with 105 to increase working time with less dusting. Got some but haven't tried it yet. Your recipe might be the ticket for those one-steppers that need a bit more help.

TL
 
Hate to be the boring guy but for what it's worth, my personal take is I'm' not a big fan of mixing products to try to create a new and different product.

M105 + Poli Seal = a type of D151

Kind of type of D151 on steroids? If you're working on a neglected finish maybe just use M105 and then D151?

I dunno... like I said, I'm not a big proponent of mixing chemicals. Makes me think of this quote...

I used to live life on the edge of the razor blade, now I live life on the blade of the butterknife...


:laughing:
 
You should consider that the non diminishing abrasives will never allow a polymer layer of protection to be left behind. The diminishing abrasives in Poli-seal break down and eventually allow for a layer of protection but you might run into issues with the type of abrasive in 105. I don't know for certain, but I have been experimenting with mixing products and figure you might as well try it out!

Sometimes it works great, othertimes it is worse lol.
 
c'mon Mike! I've added 10-12 spritz of opti-seal to an 8oz bottle of poli-seal and noticed a definite amped up sealant quality to plain poli-seal. Someone a while back suggested 20% DGAW with 80% DG FC&S and damn if aint my new favorite 'QD'. Another QD cocktail I use often is ONR QD mixed with OID (pre-dilluted). I know it kinda goes against normal mfctr recommendations and 'everything has its purpose'.

Christian - I thought of that too. When I started this thread I got rushed off to a conf call (yeah I was technically on the clock at my day job...LOL). The super fine milled dimishing abrasives in poli-seal obviously get time to break down easily when polishing and the sealant can remain behind. When using a mix like this, my goal would be to have a decent working time, greater correction, less dusting, some cleaning property, and a darn good finish. I never just stop at poli-seal. Typically I'm following with opti-seal, OCW, or Natty's etc anyway...so basically I'm ok if poli-seal's sealant attribute gets wiped out. heck if I did an IPA wipedown I guess there would be no sign of a sealant anyway.

does this make sense? I only thought of it after testing some panels this week with 105 and 205. As I worked the 205, I was wishing in my head that 105 was as smooth as the 205 but with the same cut. The 105 had a nice finish though even on black.

Anyways, I'll try it and share my thoughts. I'm working on an E55 AMG in the morning but I think I'll spare the owner the wrath of my science project.
 
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I should try this myself in the future, but I would suggest mixing the 105 with another non-diminishing compound like System one's X3. It is milder than 105 and would be a good candidate for mixing I would think. I have both, I will try this in the future for giggles.
 
that makes sense Richy. Instinctively, I think of Optimum because all their products are so versatile, don't dust, long working time, sun friendly and just plain buttery smooth.

I'm fine if 105 loses a LITTLE of it's cut but my hope is it would still tackle light to moderate swirls but finish down LSP ready MOST of the time. If it lost too much cut I could just grab power finish.
 
I like the idea Mike had withe adding M105 to D151 call it MD256. Once all the snow melts up here in NJ I will try it on a few practice cars to see how it turns out.
 
Christian - I thought of that too. When I started this thread I got rushed off to a conf call (yeah I was technically on the clock at my day job...LOL). The super fine milled dimishing abrasives in poli-seal obviously get time to break down easily when polishing and the sealant can remain behind. When using a mix like this, my goal would be to have a decent working time, greater correction, less dusting, some cleaning property, and a darn good finish. I never just stop at poli-seal. Typically I'm following with opti-seal, OCW, or Natty's etc anyway...so basically I'm ok if poli-seal's sealant attribute gets wiped out. heck if I did an IPA wipedown I guess there would be no sign of a sealant anyway.


Haha, I thought AG was your 'day' job. ;)

I understand now, that would make for a nice combination because Poli-seal could help make up for the shorter working time that 105 tends to display. But you never really know what will happen when you mix products. I mixed FK425 and DG Aquawax and it produces some of the tightest beading I have ever seen. However, it is extremely finicky depending on the environmental conditions and it can be a bear to remove.

All part of the process I guess, trial and error can yield great results if you stick with it.
 
Ok, I had a chance to try this mix out. I mixed M105 with poli-seal 50/50 and Robbyboats and I attacked the hood of his 'new to him' white Toyota Tundra. The truck was heavily oxidized and I doubt it has ever been polished and probably rarely ever waxed. It looked like a piece of yellowish chalk.

After claying, we did some passes using 4 inch white, 4 inch orange, and I think we even did a pass with a green pad. At first, we were both pretty stoked on the outcome. We easily cut right through all the oxidation and the gloss was immediately coming back and looking like it should. Under closer inspection under some good light, we could see that we probably only getting 50-60% correction. IME, we should be able to acheive about 80% correction with 1 pass using just 105 and an orange pad.

Moving on to the rest of the truck, Rob resorted back to JUST the traditional 105 and an orange pad. As expected, we saw 80-90% correction with just a few RIDS remaining. Following up with M205 and a white pad to gloss it up a bit more. An IPA wipe, a good close look then poli-seal using a green pad, 2 coats of opti-seal cured for 3-4 hours then touch up buff with OCW and a 530.

pics? nope sorry...lol I'll try to get a couple shots real quick. It's not done yet.

Mr Mike Phillips - You were right in this instance. The mixed product basically just turned into a decent working medium polish which I already have on the shelf and mixing these was really a waste of 2 products that are great all by themselves.
 
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dublifecrisis-IPA should not eat the paint sealant chemically unless the sealant is IPA based. Clay will remove it though. Another thing-IPA wipe down will not remove all of the compound/polish unless the emulsifier in the compound/polish is alcohol based.

Most of the emulsifiers used are actually waterbased which means a degreaser with Ph10-13 will be better with a 1/10 ratio for power washing.
 
SwedenDetail-I have to be honest. I typically don't use IPA or any other prep agent prior to applying sealant. Here I was just looking to get the surface clean after the compounding and polish etc...Just a couple weekend warriors looking to bring back the gloss on this white paint that looked like a piece of crack rock.

I did manage to snap a few pics but a bit off topic as this thread was originally aimed at mixing 105 and OPS. As I said, it did OK but we switched over to 105/205 and immediately saw this neglected paint coming back.

haven't touched the doors or roof yet...nasty
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The rear quarters and tailgate was done the night before. Today we had the nose in the garage and got back to the hood and front quarters.
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