Mobile Water Tank setup....need a little help

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3Crowns

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I'm putting together my mobile water tank setup and have run into a slight problem. Water is held in a 55gal plastic drum with attachments to a 12v Drummond transfer pump, out to the pressure washer. Pressure washer is a greenworks 2000psi, 1.2gpm. The transfer pump is a Drummond 12v 290gph. I get water out of the PW for about a solid minute, then water flow stops and the PW stays running looking for more water.

I'm going to assume that my transfer pump is on the week side and not pulling fast enough from the 55gal tank to the PW. If this is the case, can anyone recommend a good transfer pump that will allow it to keep up with the PW? The budget has been used on the PW and water tank, so I have to be able to use the equip I have. I also tried gravity feed, but got nothing from the PW. I have attached pictures so you guys have a better idea of the setup. Thanks for helping.

View attachment 62144
View attachment 62145
View attachment 62146
View attachment 62147


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Put a check valve in to keep your pump primed.
 
KirkH said:
Put a check valve in to keep your pump primed.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the help. This is my first rodeo and google was a little vague. where would that connect and do you have a specific brand or type in mind?

Also, is the transfer pump I have sufficient enough if I were to get the check valve added to it?


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You can get check valves in plastic or brass at any big box store. Just figure out how you can put it into your line before the pump using adapter, hose barbs, etc. You might move your pump closer to the tank also. You may need more gravity. My pump sits far lower than from where the water drains. My tank sits at the edge of the truck bed and pump is on the ground.

I use the heavy, cast iron, harbor freight clear water pump 120V and plug it into generator or 12V DC power inverter hooked to my truck battery. I can't find it on their website so I am not sure if it is still available.
 
KirkH said:
This looks like the closest thing to the HF pump I am using. This is from NT so it will be higher quality than HF.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200664791_200664791
Click to expand...

Yes sir, it is the one from HF. I will play around with putting my pump lower and seeing if that helps out any. If not, I will look at getting that NT pump. Aside from that, my PW should be up to the task or could that also be part of the problem?


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See if I can get this translated lol. Is the water tank closed completly? It can be that you get vacuum so the water flow from the tank stops. Test to open the cap on the tank that is not conected to the hose.
 
Power washer is unlikely to be the limiting variable.
 
SWETM said:
See if I can get this translated lol. Is the water tank closed completly? It can be that you get vacuum so the water flow from the tank stops. Test to open the cap on the tank that is not conected to the hose.
Click to expand...

No sir, there is venting in the top hole.


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UPDATE*** I moved the tank to the middle of the bed and was able to put the pump on the ground. Still not working like it should.

The best way I can describe it is the water comes out in a flow that is not steady, almost like it's "gulping", so possibly this is back to the transfer pump not being sufficient enough. I also made my vent hole bigger thinking that might create more of a constant flow, no dice. Back to square one....any thoughts? I appreciate the ideas so far.


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3Crowns said:
UPDATE*** I moved the tank to the middle of the bed and was able to put the pump on the ground. Still not working like it should.

The best way I can describe it is the water comes out in a flow that is not steady, almost like it's "gulping", so possibly this is back to the transfer pump not being sufficient enough. I also made my vent hole bigger thinking that might create more of a constant flow, no dice. Back to square one....any thoughts? I appreciate the ideas so far.


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Click to expand...

The check valve will keep the pump primed and stop the gulping.
 
KirkH said:
Here's a video explaining how the check valve works

YouTube
Click to expand...

Awesome! That helps a lot. I believe I found one, 3/4in brass one at Lowes. Now the fun part of getting the adapters and fitting it all together. Can this connect right to the outlet side of the pump and then to the hose and out to the PW?

View attachment 62155


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3Crowns said:
Awesome! That helps a lot. I believe I found one, 3/4in brass one at Lowes. Now the fun part of getting the adapters and fitting it all together. Can this connect right to the outlet side of the pump and then to the hose and out to the PW?

View attachment 62155


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Click to expand...

That one will not work because it is push-to-fit for indoor plumbing.

You need one with NPT threads, like this one:

Water Source Brass Check Valve, 1 in. at Tractor Supply Co.

Also you want to put the check valve on the suction end of the system , so before the pump.
 
3Crowns said:
No sir, there is venting in the top hole.


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Click to expand...

I think you are creating a vacuum. You need for air to be able to enter the water tank by either cracking a plug open a little or drilling a small hole.
 
Well, no luck with the check valve either. PW works for about 15sec, then looses pressure. I'm thinking that I may have to get bigger diameter hoses, currently I'm running a 3/4in supply hose out of the tank and to the pump and then a 3/4 in hose to my PW. There is also a 1in hole drilled into the top hole on the tank for venting.

The problem just seems to be not enough water is getting to the PW fast enough. Maybe I need to get a stronger pump.

I'm at a loss, despite seeing many other guys on YouTube with my exact setup that work flawlessly.

Thoughts?


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sudsmobile said:
It's your pump. It's bad. Get a Shurflo 12v on demand. $60 on Amazon. I run this off a 100 gallon tank to a 2.6gpm Subaru powered gas pressure washer. Never had a problem supplying water even running the pressure washer for 10 minutes straight. It only runs when there's demand, so only when you pull the trigger.

SHURFLO 4008-101-A65 New 3.0 GPM RV Water Pump Revolution, 12V - - Amazon.com
Click to expand...

Excellent, that sounds like just what I need. 60 won't break the bank so I'll get it ordered and let you know how it works. Hopefully like it should.


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From my own experience, I would say try this:

Shorten the hose from the drum to the pump, as well as the hose from the pump to the pressure washer. Many truck skids with a water tank, pump, pressure washer, generator, etc.. are set up with shorter hoses from drum to pump to pressure washer. The hose from the pressure washer to your sprayer is where you can add length if you need it. If you have a long hose for each step, mixed with a weak pump you will run into issues. The check valve statement have already been made and is a great idea.

-Stronger pump might help as well if you have already check your barrel and hoses for holes.
-If you are good with creating things, I would find a way whether doing the cheap way and using wooden pallets and mount your barrel on top of 1-2 pallets (make it slightly higher to then where your pump is) then shorten your hose from the barrel to the pump, and mount your current pump (or new one) next to the barrel.
*Basically your making your own detailing skid.
 
In my experience, with a good pump like that Shurflo it won't matter. My 100 gallon water tank is mounted 10" above the floor of my trailer, the pump is connected by 6' of hose dropping about 4" along it's length. The output is connect with 4' of hose to a Y that feeds my pressure washer and a short length of hose for filling buckets and bottles and washing hands. I have no other items in the run, no check valves, etc. We can run the tank completely dry with this setup. As long as water will flow to the pump, it should work without fail. Anything else is adding unneeded complication to what should be a very simple setup.
 
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