Must use car cover daily. Recommendations for best way to protect the finish.

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BM1024

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My son is being sold a 2000 Toyota by his grandfather. One of the conditions of the sale is that this previously garaged car be covered nightly.

I'm of the belief that a cover should only be applied to a newly cleaned car, but Grandpa is firm.

I'm thinking a QD applied to a plush microfiber for a quick 5 minute wipe down before putting the cover on.

What are the opinions on the best way for my son to protect his paint while at the same time adhering to his agreement? (And please don't suggest anything that doesn't included using the cover - it's a deal breaker.)
 
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I'd use a waterless wash rather than a QD. Of course I don't like waterless washes much, so I'd use a rinseless wash.
 
Look for another car would be my suggestion. Unless this car is some sort of rare item that investing in a 2500$ clear bra treatment is worth it.
 
Some inevitable truths I've learned about car covers.

That no matter if the car is garaged and covered, or not garaged and covered, (the latter is what I do with my Tahoe in my Avatar) fact is, a car cover will eventually get dirty.

It is this as one cause that will eventually cause marring. It will happen to a lesser extent to a garaged vehicle that is covered, but outdoors, and due to blowing winds, dirts-dusts will eventually get under the cover no matter how tightly you "wrap" the vehicle with all the cords, and straps you would care to use.

The other I've found, and it has happened with two covercraft covers I've owned, the softer NOAH, and the more heavy duty but tougher Weathershield HD Cover, that with winds, and a combination of dirts/dusts and the seams, you very might well get marring where there are strategic seams in the cover.

Here in the southwest desert, it is not unusual to get 30-40 MPH winds and gusts.

The cover will billow, and lift and drop repeatedly, and again, no matter how well you tie down a cover.

And in regards to that, I found that with the first NOAH cover I had, the more I tied it down with gust guard straps, the more stress I placed on the hems, and corners of the cover, and actually accelerated wear, and tearing of this cover.

With my newer Weathershield HD Cover, all I secure the cover with, is the centrally located eyelets on either side for a security cable which goes under the vehicle.
 
I would buy a touchless car cover
All car covers do are micro Mar when you constantly take on and off
 
If the car is a daily driver, covering and uncovering on a daily basis get's old very quick!

Some other alternatives could be like what my Tahoe sits under, a Carport Canopy which does offer some protection, especially from things like damaging hail, and sometimes the brunt of rain storms. The greater the overhang front back, and the sides, the better the protection it will offer against sun (UV damage) and rain.

Another alternative, is a paint coating on the vehicle, which will be more durable than any waxes or sealants
 
When I worked and had to leave my car in a parking lot all day long I would always use a cover to minimize the sun damage. Prior to putting the cover on I would use my California Duster to clean the car. The duster itself is the subject of many debates but that's another discussion.

Regardless of what method you use to clean the car prior to putting the cover on, the cover will cause some minor scratching and swirls over a period of time. In my case, the swirls were the lesser of two evils... swirls can be corrected, sun damage cannot.

If my car had to sit out overnight I wouldn't use a cover. My only criteria for using the cover was for protection from the sun.

I used three different material covers over the years but my favorite is the plain flannel-lined cotton cover. It is by far the gentlest on the paint. It's the "Plushweave" line from California Car Cover.
 
I'm curious about this 16 year old Toyota! Is it a collector? Grandpa won't be very happy when he sees all the scratches the cover will inflict....
 
I have a garage queen, which after purchasing a $200++ cover-craft car cover completely marred the paint. Now I have a $200++ car cover that will cover a shelf in my basement for all eternity. I had to do full paint correction a 2nd time and re-apply C.Quartz UK. Lesson learned, park it in the garage and forget about it. If it gets dusty, pull it out and do a NR wash (2bm) with Autogeek NR Wash Mitts, blow dry.

Covering a car just once for a season is a major pain, I could not see covering nightly. What is the reason for covering a 2000 Toyota (unless it's a Baja Race vehicle)????
Personally, if I had to cover a daily driver every night, I would get another car that didn't require a car cover.

Alternative Solution: Nano-Glass Ceramic coating (McKee's, CQ, CQUK, Opti-Coat, Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating.... list goes on). Self cleaning, scratch resistant, bird-bomb resistant, easy to maintain. A coating will create a ceramic/glass particle bond between your paint and the elements. If properly maintained, coatings can last years.
 
BM1024 said:
My son is being sold a 2000 Toyota by
his grandfather. One of the conditions
of the sale is that this previously garaged
car be covered nightly.

I'm of the belief that a cover should only
be applied to a newly cleaned car,
but Grandpa is firm.

What are the opinions on the best
way for my son to protect his paint
while at the same time adhering to
his agreement?

(And please don't suggest anything that
doesn't included using the cover -
it's a deal breaker.)
Click to expand...
When it comes to the fulfillment
of this type of transaction:
Should your Son be forced to either
honor his Grandfather's conditions;
or, his Father's belief system?

Whew...
Glad it's not my call to be made public!


Bob
 
I'm in the #nevercarcover camp, I'd find a different car. Any reason Grandpa is so particular about a car that's probably worth less than the cover?
 
It was a decision my son made on his own. But it was also an offer too good to refuse. Half price for the car, twice the car he could afford, and one maintained by a former professional mechanic.

For others - no, it's not a collector, just an immaculately maintained Avalon (66,000 miles)

Thanks for all for the feedback.
 
BM1024 said:
It was a decision my son made on his own. But it was also an offer too good to refuse. Half price for the car, twice the car he could afford, and one maintained by a former professional mechanic.

For others - no, it's not a collector, just an immaculately maintained Avalon (66,000 miles)

Thanks for all for the feedback.
Click to expand...

You will be inheriting that car from your son shortly.
Have you ever put on or removed a dirty car cover in the rain? Plus all the other negatives mentioned.:nomore:
 
BM1024 said:
My son is being sold a 2000 Toyota by his grandfather. One of the conditions of the sale is that this previously garaged car be covered nightly.

I'm of the belief that a cover should only be applied to a newly cleaned car, but Grandpa is firm.

I'm thinking a QD applied to a plush microfiber for a quick 5 minute wipe down before putting the cover on.

What are the opinions on the best way for my son to protect his paint while at the same time adhering to his agreement? (And please don't suggest anything that doesn't included using the cover - it's a deal breaker.)
Click to expand...

A QD or WW would work...... But, as mentioned, he's going to get tired of doing that every day. Plus it will scratch the CC. Best of luck.
 
2black1s said:
Regardless of what method you use to clean the car prior to putting the cover on, the cover will cause some minor scratching and swirls over a period of time. In my case, the swirls were the lesser of two evils... swirls can be corrected, sun damage cannot.
Click to expand...

Im not sure how you came to this conclusion. Its a lot easier to buff off a little oxidation than it is to correct swirls. I had my dark blue CR-V sit out in the sun unproteced 6 months after a hood respray, and buffed it to a mirror finish with carpro reflect finishing polish in 5 minutes. I would have taken me a half hour to do a 2-step to remove swirls and it would have removed a lot more paint.
 
KneeDragr said:
Im not sure how you came to this conclusion. Its a lot easier to buff off a little oxidation than it is to correct swirls. I had my dark blue CR-V sit out in the sun unproteced 6 months after a hood respray, and buffed it to a mirror finish with carpro reflect finishing polish in 5 minutes. I would have taken me a half hour to do a 2-step to remove swirls and it would have removed a lot more paint.
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Here's exactly how I came to that conclusion...

The point I was making is that once the oxidation process gets to the point of being visually evident the life expectancy of that paint has already been compromised. Oxidation is one of the first visually evident signs of impending paint failure. Swirls not so much.

I would look at oxidation as a structural breakdown of the paint finish. Swirls on the other hand are simply cosmetic defects.

As for buffing off a little oxidation, it may appear easier than removing swirls, but how many times have you polished away oxidation only to have the finish dull out within a short time (days or a few weeks)? That rapid dulling is because the paint is in the process of failing.

The same is not the case for swirls.
 
2black1s said:
As for buffing off a little oxidation, it may appear easier than removing swirls, but how many times have you polished away oxidation only to have the finish dull out within a short time (days or a few weeks)? That rapid dulling is because the paint is in the process of failing.
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Ive never had that happen to be honest. The reason my paint wasnt protected was because it had recent spray and I was following instructions, and I park outside at work. But I have neighbors that park outside 24/7 and their cars paint is not failing even after several years. I cant imagine paint getting that much damage in a few days or weeks.
 
KneeDragr said:
Ive never had that happen to be honest. The reason my paint wasnt protected was because it had recent spray and I was following instructions, and I park outside at work. But I have neighbors that park outside 24/7 and their cars paint is not failing even after several years Clear coat on the average will last 5 years without being protected (waxes, sealants, coatings) this of course has a lot of variables, mainly weather, drive through washes, etc..I can't imagine paint getting that much damage in a few days or weeks. This is after the paint has been compromised.
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The sun exposure issue has a lot to do with what part of the country you live in.

I grew up in Northern Ohio and the sun was not a major concern there. The biggest concern there was the winters.

I now live in Southern California. Here the sun is the number one naturally occurring destructive force to be reckoned with in regards to paint life.

I would guess that one year of sun exposure in Southern California is equivalent to three or four years of sun exposure in Northern Ohio.
 
2black1s said:
The sun exposure issue has a lot to do with what part of the country you live in.

I would guess that one year of sun exposure in Southern California is equivalent to three or four years of sun exposure in Northern Ohio.
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Exactly - and the Arizona sun is MERCILESS!
 
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