my newbie steps to detailing the outside of my car

pedro_paydro

pedro_paydro

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ok so ive been asking lots of questions on here lately, and i have finally come up with a detailing process that will work for me as a side thing. what i mean is taking care of my personal vehicle and friends just for the fun of it.

so heres what i have so far.

DA polisher (will get one for xmas) list a good one for a begg like me, cheap as possible btw.

polish and compound nothing too heavy, just something to remove some imperfections before applying the sealant.

sealant ^^ just said it.

spray wax detailer quick way to bring out some shine since im going with the sealant and not a wax.


i do wonder if i have to wipe the surface down after applying the polish and compound in order to apply the sealant.

thats pretty much what i have so far. if you guys can include anything extra i should be aware of with these steps let me know.

and if anyone has some suggestions about anything else related to this pls feel free to also post here about it.

thanks for reading!

p.s if anyone has some knowledge about washing the car on the monthly basis after applying all these products, let me know too. i have no clue to whether doing all the steps again or not, maybe just applying the spray detailer would be fine i guess.
 
You'll need to clay it first to get rid of surface comtamination. A good wash with bucket or good rinseless wash for post care. I follow my washes with either BF Poly spray, a QD with wax or a spray wax to touch up.
 
I'm new myself, and can offer a few recommendations based on a few of my friends who are professional detailers.

Porter Cable 7424XP - This is a great beginners tool because it does a great job, and it's virtually impossible to burn the pain with this because if you apply too much pressure it just stops rotating.

Watch Mike's video's here on using the 7424XP and all the steps to using it on your car --> [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU&list=PL8C2CF5287131E98B]Part 1 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher - YouTube[/video]

I was also advised to get the Meguiars 105/205 combo to cut down swirls and fine polish afterwards.

I got a couple of each Lake country pads to go with the Orbital 5.5" with the backing plate.

I also got the Klasse Sealant and a bunch of microfibers.

I am also instilling the 2 bucket system for washing the car, but just got to Home Depot and get 5 gallon bucket for like $2 and some change per bucket. I also got the grit guard for the bottom of my dirty bucket.

I'm going to do my wife's MDX this Saturday and my BMW's in the in following weeks, so keep your eye out for a thread.


Anyway, all that stuff I ordered was around $300 for everything with the sales and stuff going on.

Good luck with everything and I hope that helps.
 
bmwohio said:
I'm new myself, and can offer a few recommendations based on a few of my friends who are professional detailers.

Porter Cable 7424XP - This is a great beginners tool because it does a great job, and it's virtually impossible to burn the pain with this because if you apply too much pressure it just stops rotating.

Watch Mike's video's here on using the 7424XP and all the steps to using it on your car --> Part 1 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher - YouTube

I was also advised to get the Meguiars 105/205 combo to cut down swirls and fine polish afterwards.

I got a couple of each Lake country pads to go with the Orbital 5.5" with the backing plate.

I also got the Klasse Sealant and a bunch of microfibers.

I am also instilling the 2 bucket system for washing the car, but just got to Home Depot and get 5 gallon bucket for like $2 and some change per bucket. I also got the grit guard for the bottom of my dirty bucket.

I'm going to do my wife's MDX this Saturday and my BMW's in the in following weeks, so keep your eye out for a thread.


Anyway, all that stuff I ordered was around $300 for everything with the sales and stuff going on.

Good luck with everything and I hope that helps.
Click to expand...

hey there, yes the porter cable seems like the tool i need but its really expensive. i went to the advanced auto parts here by my house and they did have a 40 dollars buffer/polisher. if i find the link ill post it here, i dont know exactly the name or specs of it.

will this compound and polish too harsh for the paint i have. the car will be 13 years old this xmas with only a two parts that had recently been painted about 2 months ago. i thought i only suppose to go with a polish. but get back at me with some info if you can.

and yes the sealant, is there any special way that i have to use it or the same as a wax or compound??? any spray i should use to clean up the polish to apply the sealant?

i have like 4 microfibers right now and i will be getting a couple more too. i noticed that i ran through all 4 with just doing the windows and the wax...

cant stress enough man, the 2 bucket system is simple and effective. im very weird when it comes to cleaning things. i actually am a clean freak so i always want the car clean as i can get before doing all the detailing.

im guessing these pads are sold here too including the backing plate. im still confused on how to choose the pads i need and how i should clean/ take care of them after using it.

btw can i use touch up spray wax after buffing out the sealant? will it interfere and just smear and mess it all up? im guessing no because ppl do apply wax after sealers as i read on here.

well thats all, and yes i get on here on the daily basis. i will be sure to look through your thread! :detailer:



i will post pics as well after i get the car done properly. there car isnt in the best of shapes, few scratches here and there.
 
pedro_paydro said:
hey there, yes the porter cable seems like the tool i need but its really expensive. i went to the advanced auto parts here by my house and they did have a 40 dollars buffer/polisher. if i find the link ill post it here, i dont know exactly the name or specs of it.

will this compound and polish too harsh for the paint i have. the car will be 13 years old this xmas with only a two parts that had recently been painted about 2 months ago. i thought i only suppose to go with a polish. but get back at me with some info if you can.

and yes the sealant, is there any special way that i have to use it or the same as a wax or compound??? any spray i should use to clean up the polish to apply the sealant?

i have like 4 microfibers right now and i will be getting a couple more too. i noticed that i ran through all 4 with just doing the windows and the wax...

cant stress enough man, the 2 bucket system is simple and effective. im very weird when it comes to cleaning things. i actually am a clean freak so i always want the car clean as i can get before doing all the detailing.

im guessing these pads are sold here too including the backing plate. im still confused on how to choose the pads i need and how i should clean/ take care of them after using it.

btw can i use touch up spray wax after buffing out the sealant? will it interfere and just smear and mess it all up? im guessing no because ppl do apply wax after sealers as i read on here.

well thats all, and yes i get on here on the daily basis. i will be sure to look through your thread! :detailer:



i will post pics as well after i get the car done properly. there car isnt in the best of shapes, few scratches here and there.
Click to expand...

$40....I don't need to tell you that you get what you pay for. For general purpose and light DIY paint correction, the recommended PC 7424 DA polisher is the way to go. You could potentially go slightly cheaper if you are not planning on making a business out of it but....

My suggestion for you is to put down EACH step on a piece of paper and list out all the "stuff" you will need for each step and research each components. For example

1) Washing:
- Need 2 buckets (cheapo dedicated home improvements buckets are fine)
- Need hose
- Need quality sprayer
- Need quality car soap
- Need quality all purpose wheel and hub cleaner
- Need microfiber mitt
- Need wheel brush
- Need fender brush (toilet brush works well)
- Need PLENTY of MF towel
etc......

2) Claying
3) Paint correction
4) Polishing
5) Waxing

As far as claying, compounding, polishing, buffing, jeweling etc.... if this is your personal vehicle, you make the "educated" decision based on a variety of factor (all pretty much personal). Just remember that every action results is consequences (some good, some not so good). What I mean by that is that polishing for example will get you a mirror finish but also takes some of your clear off.

There are a lot of good references on the site that will describe the processes and reasoning. Feel free to use the search button.

All of the products you will need can be found on the Autogeek's retail website, as well as some basic info on the product. If you come on a product that appeals to you and that you are not familiar with, come back to the forum and search it up.
 
A $40 buffer is just a waste of $40. Since you won't be able to correct paint with it, it will prove to be a very expensive wax spreader.
 
hey there, yes the porter cable seems like the tool i need but its really expensive. i went to the advanced auto parts here by my house and they did have a 40 dollars buffer/polisher. if i find the link ill post it here, i dont know exactly the name or specs of it.
Click to expand...

Don't post this but its just going to be a very basic Orbital buffer. These are usually good for wax removal if you don't want to do it by hand.

The DA is a hefty purchase but you will see it is well worth the money once you do some correction work and see the results.

will this compound and polish too harsh for the paint i have. the car will be 13 years old this xmas with only a two parts that had recently been painted about 2 months ago. i thought i only suppose to go with a polish. but get back at me with some info if you can.
Click to expand...

If you are asking about M105 M205 then this is a great pair to go with it has powerful correction power and the M205 is a great finishing polish that will leave you paint looking great after compounding.

sealant, is there any special way that i have to use it or the same as a wax or compound???
Click to expand...

This can be done by hand or machine. A very thin coat is all that is needed.

any spray i should use to clean up the polish to apply the sealant?
Click to expand...

You can get some quick detailer if you want.

i have like 4 microfibers right now and i will be getting a couple more too.
Click to expand...
Get high quality ones that are very soft and plush for your paint as you don't want any rough ones that are going to instill scratches back into the paint after you have corrected it

i noticed that i ran through all 4 with just doing the windows and the wax...
Click to expand...

The more the better :xyxthumbs:

im guessing these pads are sold here too including the backing plate. im still confused on how to choose the pads i need and how i should clean/ take care of them after using it.
Click to expand...

Most people start out with light cutting pads, many polishing pads, and finishing pads. These will be what you need for you correction. Backing pads are going to come with the DA should you purchase one.

btw can i use touch up spray wax after buffing out the sealant? will it interfere and just smear and mess it all up? im guessing no because ppl do apply wax after sealers as i read on here.
Click to expand...

Yes you can if you choose. Some people are happy with just the sealant other top the sealant with a pure carnuba wax like Black fire Midnight sun.

Can you give us some pictures of what you going to be working on?

List the goals that you want to achieve.

Lastly, here is a great place to start reading. Many great articles and all about the tools that are available. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html
 
Dr_Pain said:
$40....I don't need to tell you that you get what you pay for. For general purpose and light DIY paint correction, the recommended PC 7424 DA polisher is the way to go. You could potentially go slightly cheaper if you are not planning on making a business out of it but....

My suggestion for you is to put down EACH step on a piece of paper and list out all the "stuff" you will need for each step and research each components. For example

1) Washing:
- Need 2 buckets (cheapo dedicated home improvements buckets are fine)
- Need hose
- Need quality sprayer
- Need quality car soap
- Need quality all purpose wheel and hub cleaner
- Need microfiber mitt
- Need wheel brush
- Need fender brush (toilet brush works well)
- Need PLENTY of MF towel
etc......

2) Claying
3) Paint correction
4) Polishing
5) Waxing

As far as claying, compounding, polishing, buffing, jeweling etc.... if this is your personal vehicle, you make the "educated" decision based on a variety of factor (all pretty much personal). Just remember that every action results is consequences (some good, some not so good). What I mean by that is that polishing for example will get you a mirror finish but also takes some of your clear off.

There are a lot of good references on the site that will describe the processes and reasoning. Feel free to use the search button.

All of the products you will need can be found on the Autogeek's retail website, as well as some basic info on the product. If you come on a product that appeals to you and that you are not familiar with, come back to the forum and search it up.
Click to expand...

well i thought the compound part wasnt needed as much. someone just said use polish with some compound in it. so im confused.

so polish is bad for my paint???

kind of lost here.

swanicyouth said:
A $40 buffer is just a waste of $40. Since you won't be able to correct paint with it, it will prove to be a very expensive wax spreader.
Click to expand...


and yes you guys are probable right on this one. i just thought it could be some way to save money if i can since im not doing anything professional or charging anyone. its simply a diy thing.
 
Thoryamaha919 said:
Don't post this but its just going to be a very basic Orbital buffer. These are usually good for wax removal if you don't want to do it by hand.

The DA is a hefty purchase but you will see it is well worth the money once you do some correction work and see the results.



If you are asking about M105 M205 then this is a great pair to go with it has powerful correction power and the M205 is a great finishing polish that will leave you paint looking great after compounding.



This can be done by hand or machine. A very thin coat is all that is needed.



You can get some quick detailer if you want.


Get high quality ones that are very soft and plush for your paint as you don't want any rough ones that are going to instill scratches back into the paint after you have corrected it



The more the better :xyxthumbs:



Most people start out with light cutting pads, many polishing pads, and finishing pads. These will be what you need for you correction. Backing pads are going to come with the DA should you purchase one.



Yes you can if you choose. Some people are happy with just the sealant other top the sealant with a pure carnuba wax like Black fire Midnight sun.

Can you give us some pictures of what you going to be working on?

List the goals that you want to achieve.

Lastly, here is a great place to start reading. Many great articles and all about the tools that are available. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html
Click to expand...


well which one will eat throught my paint because now im confused....the last person just said the polish would eat through some of the clear.

so how strong are they and which kind should i choose?

as for the sealant, i was wondering if it needs some like cure time of is it just buff it on and then buff it off.

so no need to clean the surface after compound/polish, and sealant? as long as i buff the coat off i will i be fine?

Most people start out with light cutting pads, many polishing pads, and finishing pads.

what do you mean bey that? are those the 3 types of pads i need? or just a polishing and finishing pad?

and yes ill post some pics by tomrw. the car has a nice red tone but it just needs a nice clean finish. i just want to correct the paint a little and seal it so its protected, still giving it a nice shine but nothing to where its hard to look at.

thanks for the link i will check it out:dblthumb2:
 
When you do any removal of defects from the paint you are removing a very thin layer for paint. Any compound that has an abrasive in to is going to aid in removing the paint.

M105 is an aggressive compound that many go to when they have to tackle heavy oxidation scratches and swirl marks.

M205 is the second part which well aid in the fine tuning of the paint and enhance the gloss of the paint while removing any hazing left from the combination of M105 and a cutting pad.

Nothing will eat through the paint on its own. You can burn through the paint with a very heavy combination. Usually this can happen from too much heat too much pressure and lack of knowledge. With a DA that risk is very much reduced but can still happen in rare cases.

DA polishers are very user friendly and very easy to understand and use. A person can get the hang of a DA with in an hour or two of using one.

Pads come in all sizes and aggressiveness. When using a DA and making corrections its always best to do a test spot and go from the least aggressive method to get the job done.
Most will start with the polishing pad for any defect removal. If once you do a test stop and find that the combo has done the job the stick with it. If not u can try to bump the aggressiveness up with the light cutting pad and same product or same pad and a more aggressive compound.

When applying a pure polish, sealant, or wax its best to use the finishing pad. These are soft pads that are delicate to the paint and work great.

You may not need the light cutting thats up to you but the polishing and finish are going to be the two u will need. At least three polishing I would say is good for starting out.

Sealants are mostly wipe on wipe off you may have to let the haze over before buffing. Best way to check is to read the label.
 
 
Thoryamaha919 said:
When you do any removal of defects from the paint you are removing a very thin layer for paint. Any compound that has an abrasive in to is going to aid in removing the paint.

M105 is an aggressive compound that many go to when they have to tackle heavy oxidation scratches and swirl marks.

M205 is the second part which well aid in the fine tuning of the paint and enhance the gloss of the paint while removing any hazing left from the combination of M105 and a cutting pad.

Nothing will eat through the paint on its own. You can burn through the paint with a very heavy combination. Usually this can happen from too much heat too much pressure and lack of knowledge. With a DA that risk is very much reduced but can still happen in rare cases.

DA polishers are very user friendly and very easy to understand and use. A person can get the hang of a DA with in an hour or two of using one.

Pads come in all sizes and aggressiveness. When using a DA and making corrections its always best to do a test spot and go from the least aggressive method to get the job done.
Most will start with the polishing pad for any defect removal. If once you do a test stop and find that the combo has done the job the stick with it. If not u can try to bump the aggressiveness up with the light cutting pad and same product or same pad and a more aggressive compound.

When applying a pure polish, sealant, or wax its best to use the finishing pad. These are soft pads that are delicate to the paint and work great.

You may not need the light cutting thats up to you but the polishing and finish are going to be the two u will need. At least three polishing I would say is good for starting out.

Sealants are mostly wipe on wipe off you may have to let the haze over before buffing. Best way to check is to read the label.
Click to expand...

Thoryamaha919 said:
This is a great read on test spots

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html

Video for picking the right polisher
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...car-garage-video-how-pick-right-polisher.html

This is what you have
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ditional-orbital-buffer-aka-wax-spreader.html

This is a great read for you on how to use a DA
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19994-2008-lexus-250-pinnacle-detail.html

And the newbie guide
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html
Click to expand...


thats A LOT of info, thanks.

yes im better off spending my money on a DA polisher. or i could mess something up and spend more money trying to fix it.

also i do have scratches and swirl marks but i dont think those scratches can be fixed with a compound. so just removing swirl marks whats a very gentle compound i can use?

now the polish as i understand is just what it sounds like. a POLISH, from what i understand and you said it it will only clear up the paint before the sealant goes over it. so does the type of polish matter? is there anything about polishes like the compound. do they vary in from gentle to harsh?
 
pedro_paydro said:
well i thought the compound part wasnt needed as much. someone just said use polish with some compound in it. so im confused.

so polish is bad for my paint???

kind of lost here.
Click to expand...

The compounding process is ONLY necessary if you want to remove scratches, swirls, hologram, water mark, chemical etching, scuffs or do other paint corrections. This is the step done BEFORE you apply the sealant or wax or any other LSP.

The compounding process uses polishing products which contain super fine abrasive, which as you use them with a DA polisher breakdown abrading the clear coat with finer and finer grit. This is normally followed by a finishing polishing product (and pad) which will even further refine the top layer of the clear coat to a mirror finish (or close to)..... so to answer your question about the polish being bad, the answer would be yes and no. It does cut it down but in the hands of a experience detailer, you can create a finish on the car that is absolutely remarkable.

You do want to follow this process with something that will protect your hard work. This can be a sealer, a glaze, a wax or other LSP, which can be either synthetic or natural. This does not contain any harsh chemicals or abrasive so is safe for the clear coat. Having said that, you cannot do any paint correction but will be able to fill some of the microscopic imperfections that remain, enhancing the polishing process.
 
Dr_Pain said:
The compounding process is ONLY necessary if you want to remove scratches, swirls, hologram, water mark, chemical etching, scuffs or do other paint corrections. This is the step done BEFORE you apply the sealant or wax or any other LSP.

The compounding process uses polishing products which contain super fine abrasive, which as you use them with a DA polisher breakdown abrading the clear coat with finer and finer grit. This is normally followed by a finishing polishing product (and pad) which will even further refine the top layer of the clear coat to a mirror finish (or close to)..... so to answer your question about the polish being bad, the answer would be yes and no. It does cut it down but in the hands of a experience detailer, you can create a finish on the car that is absolutely remarkable.

You do want to follow this process with something that will protect your hard work. This can be a sealer, a glaze, a wax or other LSP, which can be either synthetic or natural. This does not contain any harsh chemicals or abrasive so is safe for the clear coat. Having said that, you cannot do any paint correction but will be able to fill some of the microscopic imperfections that remain, enhancing the polishing process.
Click to expand...

Thoryamaha919 said:
This should help you understand about the polishes http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html

Here is about the aggressive products

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html

Polishing with a DA
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/55512-s-not-hard.html
Click to expand...


you guys are like awesome. my homework will have to wait for tonight^^ :dblthumb2:
 
I have the PC 7424 XP and use 105/205 all the time. I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. A little timid, trying to soak in as much info as possible. What I found best is to just get on the paint and let the learning curve begin. It will be virtually impossible for you to screw up your paint, however if you are going to use the 105 don't over use it as it will dry out very quickly leaving you with dust, which can be a pain to deal with. All in all have fun with it, that's why we do what we do!
 
Here is another advice I saw on the forum a couple of times (especially for newb). Instead of testing on your vehicle, spend a little money and go to the junk yard and get an old deck lid or hood (with good paint) for cheap and use that for your tests. You can burn through the paint on purpose to see what that feels like, try buffing without a saturated pad, do some marring and scratch test and test your skills to make them disappear etc... You can even try your hand at wet sanding/dray sanding and orange peel removal.

Be aware that every manufacturer and body shop work will vary as well as the amount of clear coat you have to work with..... but in the end practice makes perfect and perfect practice makes for AWESOME!! :buffing:
 
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