Nano skin auto scrub mitt

[2007M6]

I just got this in but I haven't had the chance to use it yet since my car has already been clayed using a clay bar. I'm curious how this compares to using the standard clay bar. My guess is that you will save time, but how are the end results between the two. It cost $49 for this mitt so if it's comparable great, if not, I'll go back to other method. Thanks in advance.

 

[Love's Auto]

They work very well.

 

[firecorgi]

Let us know your results. I bought the bar version but did not get the mitt...yet....

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

All the Nanoskin products work great.

I used the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads my most recent detail job and it left the paint as smooth as a chalkboard which is how I like the paint to feel after decontaminating.

Here's the deal with the wash mitt which I also like and if I was doing "Production Detailing", this is the tool I would use to decontaminate cars if I was using a traditional wash.

The way you use these wash mitts is you wash and rinse the car first. You want and need to wash, that is push some type of wash mitt over the body panels to loosen any topical dirt. Thin rinse to remove all the loosened dirt.

Then while the car is still wet come back and run the rubber side of the mitt over all the panels to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

The above is the order to use this method of decontaminating safely.

If you don't wash and rinse first you will trap loosened dirt between the mitt and the paint and risk inducing scratches.



:dblthumb2:

 

[pikiki]

All the Nanoskin products work great.

I used the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads my most recent detail job and it left the paint as smooth as a chalkboard which is how I like the paint to feel after decontaminating.

Here's the deal with the wash mitt which I also like and if I was doing "Production Detailing", this is the tool I would use to decontaminate cars if I was using a traditional wash.

The way you use these wash mitts is you wash and rinse the car first. You want and need to wash, that is push some type of wash mitt over the body panels to loosen any topical dirt. Thin rinse to remove all the loosened dirt.

Then while the car is still wet come back and run the rubber side of the mitt over all the panels to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

The above is the order to use this method of decontaminating safely.

If you don't wash and rinse first you will trap loosened dirt between the mitt and the paint and risk inducing scratches.



:dblthumb2:

SO Mike no need to use any lubricant or spray wax to work the nano skin mitt to clay the car? just water?? Do I got it right?

 

[KBsToy]

They work very well.

Just used mine on new car. You good hear and feel the grit come off. I used a spray lubricant.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

SO Mike no need to use any lubricant or spray wax to work the nano skin mitt to clay the car? just water?? Do I got it right?

I use my soapy water in my wash bucket. With a grit guard in the bottom.

The above would be both KISS or Keep it Simple Simon as well as time and product effective.


Just to note, my own personal practice and recommendation is that anytime you mechanically decontaminate car paint you should already be planning on and including the time to do at least one machine polishing step.

I think it's pretty easy to understand that rubbing anything over the paint that has the ability to mechanically abrade the surface to some level in order to remove contaminants that have a strong bond to the paint is not going to make the paint more clear and glossy.

What's the opposite meaning of the word more?


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Pureshine]

Make sure you use it on glass first to break it in and I add a little ONR to my wash bucket for extra lube. I have used it over 40 cars and haven't seen any marring if your using enough lube. I just ordered a new one.

 

[KenVette57]

Make sure you use it on glass first to break it in and I add a little ONR to my wash bucket for extra lube. I have used it over 40 cars and haven't seen any marring if your using enough lube. I just ordered a new one.

ONR? What dat

 

[SeaJay's]

I have one and it's part of my decon routine with most cars. However, you will notice you may get some marring on soft paints (honda, jet black bmw, tesla). Even after breaking it in on glass you may find it takes a car or 2 for it to fully break in.

I find that using a bucket of hot water with your lube (i prefer ONR - Optimum No Rinse). Softens up the pad just enough, especially when the weather is cold.

 

[07gtcs]

I've used mine once and it went way faster. First washed the car, then pulled in the garage to clay. Put the mitt in a bucket of ONR made up for a rinse less wash, used some QD for lube and went to work.

 

[Tato]

I use the sponge (ordered the mitt but didn't arrived yet). For production, I follow the guidelines proposed by Mike Phillips on previous answer.

What I do like to use as lube 'when claying a wet car' is car shampoo at a medium dilution on a spray bottle (like a quick detailing spray, but with soap). It works really well, and a little goes a long way.

I rinse each section just after when claying with shampoo. This practice has some inconvenience like keeping the car always wet until final rinse and dry.

However, once you dry, you have the cleanest clayed car ever!

On a dry car, I use those sponges with Meg's Final Inspection 34 (the lube I have in gallons).

With the mitt I pretend to maintain the wet car claying habit, although with better grip and larger surface area. The suggested ONR method looks really interesting.


After using clay pads 6' and the autoscrub sponge, I still don't know why those mitts aren't as popular as they should be... May the High Price be the answer?

Used Black Friday discount to get mine.

Kind Regards, good luck.

 

[Pureshine]

ONR? What dat

Optimum no rinse.

 

[VeloNYC]

ONR? What dat

Optimum No Rinse. FYI, ONR comes in two variations Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine and Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax. Most people prefer Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine as dedicated clay lube.​

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I have one and it's part of my decon routine with most cars. However, you will notice you may get some marring on soft paints (honda, jet black bmw, tesla).

Exactly and that's why if I'm going to use this or any mechanical means of decontaminating I'm also going to plan on doing at least one machine polishing process whether I can "see" the marring or not. But that's also because of the types of cars I work on.

If I were working on daily drivers I would probably decontaminating them and then using a cleaner/wax or one polish step followed by something to seal the paint, either way, some type of abrasive chemical is being machine applied to shmoo the paint over.

I find that using a bucket of hot water with your lube (i prefer ONR - Optimum No Rinse). Softens up the pad just enough, especially when the weather is cold.

Good tip!

:dblthumb2:

 

[SR99]

Even after breaking it in on glass you may find it takes a car or 2 for it to fully break in.

So I guess that says rubbing on glass doesn't break it in very well, or it has to be done for a much longer time than most people think. I mean, a car or two is a very tedious amount of break-in.

I suppose the towel takes the longest to break in, since it has the most surface area to break in, and every square inch has to be exposed to the break-in process.

Has anyone tried using a light polish to help assist or expedite the break-in process? Unlike regular clay, nothing sticks or is embedded so the polish would just wash off after you're done and it would seem like it could help (?)