Naphtha

V

volfever

New member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Been lurking around for a while and never posted so I was thinking (which is kinda scary in itself) has anyone tried Naphtha before their LSP? I work at Nissan and We use it on every vehicle before we put the emblems on. I know you can get it at Lowes for about $13 a gallon, not sure about the dilution on it though. That stuff cleans the paint pretty darn good. It also dries pretty quick too.
 
volfever said:
Been lurking around for a while and never posted so I was thinking (which is kinda scary in itself) has anyone tried Naphtha before their LSP? I work at Nissan and We use it on every vehicle before we put the emblems on. I know you can get it at Lowes for about $13 a gallon, not sure about the dilution on it though. That stuff cleans the paint pretty darn good. It also dries pretty quick too.
Click to expand...

Since this is your first post,

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:


Haven't tried Naptha myself, I know it used to be used a lot for the carrying agent in common polishes and waxes, I think the stricter VOC laws put into place by the EPA back in 2005 caused a lot of manufactures to improve their technology to not have to use it for a solvent.


I'm going to stick with what I wrote here,


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


Here's an excerpt...

Mike Phillips said:
Follow the Manufacturer's Recommendations
The first and primary consideration goes to the manufactures recommendations. If the manufacturer of a wax or paint sealant officially recommends that the surface of the paint must be stripped clean before their product can properly bond to the paint, then you should follow the recommendations of the manufacturer as they know their products best.

If the manufacturer does not specifically recommend that a painted surface needs to be stripped clean, then whatever recommendations they do provide should be followed as they know their products best.

To my knowledge, there are only a few manufacturers in the wax and paint sealant business that recommend that the surface of automotive paint be surgically clean and bare before their products can be applied. Besides these few companies, most manufacturers either recommend to apply their wax and/or paint sealant to the paint after first using their surface prep products which can include, compounds, polishes, paint cleaners and pre-wax cleaners. And of course, sometimes there are no specific recommendations.
Click to expand...


And here,


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


Excerpt

Mike Phillips said:
Personal Recommendation For Removing Waxes and Paint Sealants
To remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant, I recommend using a light paint cleaner or a light polish applied by hand or machine. A light paint cleaner or abrasive polish will effectively remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant AND leave the paint looking clear and glossy. I call this working forward in the process because the goal is to create beauty.

Chemically stripping the paint will tend to dull the paint; it certainly doesn't increase gloss and clarity. You don't see the dulling effect unless you're working on black paint and repeat the process multiple times. Since not everyone works on black paint, and you're not going to make stripping your car's paint a daily routine, it could be you won't see the dulling effect on your car's paint but it does take place.

Wiping a clear coated black finish over and over and over again with any type of solvent isn't going to make the top clear layer of paint more and more clear, it's going to do the opposite, that is dull it down.

So chemically stripping paint is what I call working backwards in the process. I, personally, prefer to work forwards in all my detailing projects but do understand the reasons why some people want to chemically strip their car's paint, or their customer's car's paint, and each person can decide what the best approach is for their needs.

And again, since you're not chemically stripping the paint as a "practice" but only during a detailing session, the dulling effect is not an issue, but I wanted to point it out just for the most detail oriented detailing enthusiasts or Pro Detailers reading this article.
Click to expand...

:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for replying. I wasn't real sure if it was cheaper alternative or not. I actually work on the Nissan assembly line here in Smyrna, TN and we use it to clean the paint before we put emblems on and when the cars gets to us it comes straight from the paint plant.
 
volfever said:
Thanks for replying. I wasn't real sure if it was cheaper alternative or not. I actually work on the Nissan assembly line here in Smyrna, TN and we use it to clean the paint before we put emblems on and when the cars gets to us it comes straight from the paint plant.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you're using a process that have been approved by an engineer or someone that's had this process approved by someone that knows what they are doing.


Do the have a specific safety procedure such as wearing gloves, goggles and respirators?

I'm not a chemist but again, for years solvents like Naptha and Stoddard Solvent were used in inexpensive off the shelf type car wax products for decades so my guess is that it's a fairly safe solvent to use as well as inexpensive.


Do you or anyone in your facility do any polishing work?


:)
 
We have to wear safety glasses and just regular cotton gloves. We do have a place where we do paint repair. I don't work in that department though.
 
Cool. I live behind the library. I'm thinking I should've posted in the introduce yourself section first:) sorry for that but, I'm glad I finally posted:)
 
I've just recently got some detailing things and I've only done 2 vehicles. A 2011 Murano and a 2000 gmc pickup. I'm still learning and still need a lot of practice:) The Murano didn't need any polishing so I basically washed it up good and put some Power Lock on it. I did use some 85rd to take out a few little scratches under the door handles though.
 
I've used Naptha for removing some real stubborn adhesive from an all bare aluminum truck that I polished. It is pretty much the most aggressive solvent sold at Ace Hardware. I played around with it on some non automotive single stage paints and it removes a lot of paint very quickly. As a real quick wipe to pre-clean before applying a badge I guess it would be very effective, however as a means of prep for an LSP I think as aggressive as it is it would be total overkill.

Welcome to the site!!
 
Just to say...Naptha is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Think 'lighter fluid.'

I'm sure the OP is well aware of this, but for us garage folks...be careful.

Bill
 
BillE said:
Just to say...Naptha is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Think 'lighter fluid.'

I'm sure the OP is well aware of this, but for us garage folks...be careful.

Bill
Click to expand...

Thanks for this posting Bill !!

Must use with care.
On that note...
Naptha is the best solvent I've found to totally remove RainX.


:)

Bob
 
In the tire factory where I worked, we used a VERY flammable solvent with naptha to dissolve rubber for various repairs. A static spark could (and did on occasion) ignite it. If I remember, it is a carcinogen too, so be careful using it.
 
Yes I'm aware that It is flammable. I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried it.
 
FUNX725 said:
Naptha is the best solvent I've found to totally remove RainX.
Click to expand...
rodster205 said:
Hopefully this isn't too off-topic, but why would you want to remove RainX?
Click to expand...

-Perhaps...I should have said Naptha will totally remove the remainder of:
Worn-down, degraded RainX-residue's filmy-layer...often White-ish/Orange-ish in color. YUCK!

-(This filmy-layer will affect the clarity of the autoglass it's been applied to---especially the windshield.)

-And...Naptha to remove botched RainX applications, as well.

-Plus...
I mustn't forget to mention the hardened wiper-blades/molding thats been affected by RainX, too.


YES!...I'm not a fan of these types of autoglass "treatments"!!!
(No vehicle I've owned has ever been "touched" by them.)


:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
-Perhaps...I should have said Naptha will totally remove the remainder of:
Worn-down, degraded RainX-residue's filmy-layer...often White-ish/Orange-ish in color. YUCK!

-(This filmy-layer will affect the clarity of the autoglass it's been applied to---especially the windshield.)

-And...Naptha to remove botched RainX applications, as well.

-Plus...
I mustn't forget to mention the hardened wiper-blades/molding thats been affected by RainX, too.


YES!...I'm not a fan of these types of autoglass "treatments"!!!
(No vehicle I've owned has ever been "touched" by them.)


:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've used it on literally dozens of my personal vehicles and never had a problem. My glass is crystal clear with RainX applied. However it was a mess at first until I learned how to apply it correctly. And I have never had wipers harden any faster with it, but again I had to learn to raise the wipers until after the application. If you get the liquid directly on the wiper blade it does mess it up.
 
I believe that Naptha is the main ingredient in panel wipe, which is what GTechniq recommends prior to application of Exo. We need Rob to give us some clarification :confused:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top