Need Advice- Swirled out C4 Corvette 1st time with SMC

[allenk4]

I have a C4 Corvette in a couple of weeks.

Exterior only including tail lights

Planning on a two step.

The owner enjoys waxing the car every few months, so the LSP selected is Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax.


It is in pretty bad shape due to bad wash technique. Owner indicates it has never been compounded or polished

As you can see from the photos the tail section has zero gloss


We have access to Rotary, FLEX 3401, Rupes 21, Hernandez Polisher (2"), PC 7424 and a wide variety of compounds, polishes and pad sot go with 'em


My only real concern is compounding the SMC (plastic) body panels and the polycarbonate nose and tail. In the 1st picture...SMC trunk deck on the left and Polycarbonate tail on the right. Will be carefully watching the heat.



Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[FUNX650]

You may have better success polishing/correcting the taillights with them removed from the rear clip.
Here's one way I've removed them:

Note:
Each light will have 2 (two) 10mm nuts located @ approx. 1:00 and 8:00.

-Take off the license plate;
-then reach in and remove the inboard lights' nuts first...then remove the inboard lights from the rear clip.
-you now have access to the outboard light's nuts through the now empty inboard lights' hole.

Here's what it looks like from inside the rear clip:




However:
If your arms are long enough to reach these nuts from underneath the vehicle...

•Special Note:
Do not over tighten the 10mm nuts upon lights reinstallation!

Bob

 

[allenk4]

Thanks Bob

I don't know if I can get by bicep thru the license plate hole

We may polish the tail lights insitu using the Hernandez Polisher with 2" pads or a rotary with 3"


Interested to head some additional input on polishing the SMC (plastic).
Other than watching the heat, is there any additional advice?

 

[RevitalizeAutoSpa]

As much as I love FG400, I would prefer M105 for this use (quite a bit less heat). Since M105 dries fairly quickly, you can regularly spray with distilled water or a detailer to not only extend working time, but cool down the surface some.

Here's an excellent read on dealing with Nissan's "Scratch Shield", some tips in here might help:

Black 2014 Nissan GT-R - Compound and Polish on "Scratch Shield"

 

[allenk4]

As much as I love FG400, I would prefer M105 for this use (quite a bit less heat). Since M105 dries fairly quickly, you can regularly spray with distilled water or a detailer to not only extend working time, but cool down the surface some.

Here's an excellent read on dealing with Nissan's "Scratch Shield", some tips in here might help:

Black 2014 Nissan GT-R - Compound and Polish on "Scratch Shield"

We will have both M105 & FG 400 for the test spot. We also plan on trying D300 with the Megs DAMF system

Hopefully, the heat will be easier to manage than the GT-R self-healing

 

[RevitalizeAutoSpa]

D300\DAMF would probably be a good bet, since you want to stick with slower speeds for that system.

 

[PaYnTwZRd]

I would honestly hit that sucker with a yellow med. Cut pad and some stronger compound.. then finish off with a fine compound using rotary and finish pad.. then i would apply an abrasive breatheable sealant as long as its not a repaint, with a good coat of some carnauba wax! I have a pneumatic rotary with a 7 and 3 inch pads selection i would use on tailights.. pending on price i wouldnt take them out.. more risky that way for some tiny tailights. Imo anyway. Love the red tho. Ive used some wizards mystic polish that is AMAZING at removing those swirls.. i one stepped this deep cherry ram with it rotary and finish pad! And i seen near FLAWLESS results with the wizards compounds
Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online

 

[allenk4]

Can someone confirm that the hood and trunk emblems are applied at the factory with 3M double stick?

The paint within the rear emblem is faded and swirled. Planning on removing and replacing

 

[FUNX650]

Can someone confirm that the hood and trunk emblems are applied at the factory with 3M double stick?

The paint within the rear emblem is faded and swirled. Planning on removing and replacing

•If still all original, unrestored, OEM C4 emblems:

-Front emblem is pinned and "adhesived"...Opening the hood will reveal the two speed nuts on the front emblem's "pins". Your "Fishing line, etc.-processes" to finalize the removal process.

-Rear emblem is only "adhesived". Remove per your established processes I alluded to above.

Bob

 

[FUNX650]

-Rear emblem is only "adhesived".

Let me amend this to say:

If rear emblem is on the fuel access lid...
Pinned and "adhesived". Removal of attaching nuts required.

Bob

 

[allenk4]

Thanks Bob, great info form the "Go To Vette Guy" on the Forum

When you say "adhesive", are you indicating 3M double stick tape or emblem adhesive?

 

[FUNX650]

Thanks Bob, great info form the "Go To Vette Guy" on the Forum

When you say "adhesive", are you indicating 3M double stick tape or emblem adhesive?

I'm not sure if it's 3M or not.
Once the attaching nuts are removed:
It should be an easy "dental-floss style saw through".

I don't know if I can get by bicep thru the license plate hole

Shazzammmm!

I gotta start working on my guns...
errr I mean my cap pistols.

I suppose having Old muscle...
is nature's way of saying: HA HA!!

Bob