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detaildave

detaildave

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Well every now & then an opportunity rears it's head. I took this job without doing a test spot on site for a friend's client. That was my 1st mistake, after I took it back to my garage I washed wheel wells, rims, tires, then (paint) washed, rinsed, dried, clay bar rinsed & dried again. Then I could finally see the extent of the damage to the paint over the ENTIRE vehicle. From what I have assessed so far:

Water spots type 1 & 2, and Swirl marks over the entire vehicle ( I mean top, bottom, sides, tailgate, front painted bumper, front lower painted valance, rear painted bumper & under the chrome side steps is more paint as well, very nice truck throughout). I started with a test spot on the roof (out of sight out of mind was my thought process);


1. 3M compound w/ LC orange pad & Griots G. DA rub over area (2x2), then setting 1 to spread, then setting 5 to work in. 6-passes. Inspected area & some of the water spots came out (type 1) & reduced the swirls somewhat.


2. 3M cmpd, w/ LC yellow pad & GG DA same results, except now their is a white chalky appearance after using the yellow pad. So I redid same area with the LC orange pad which reduced the white chalky appearance some what from the yellow pad. Then LC white pad with 3M Ultrafine machine polish. Diminished the white chalky apperance even more, but when I put the Brinkman's correction light on the area & you can see the area I worked.


Ok other factors that should be taken into account:
A. Sun went down, so the fluoresent light is all I had

B. Temp. dropped into the 40's, not enough heat for proper application of product (?)

C. Next morning no sunlight & cold once again

D. My heating unit in the garage is not enough to keep the sheet metal & product warm enough to apply / penetrate (Heat will be fixed, got that covered)

Too say this has me perplexed / very Humbled would be an understatement. I'm not the type of person that will drive around lost while trying to save face or ego, I stop & ask for directions. I'm more than open to any advice from my peer's here & I am asking for your Pro's help with this project. I have always been a "Coachable" type of person & have an Extreme work ecthic (Death before Dishonor), from my scuba / sky-diving day's I have always planned my dive & dived my plan.

My word & my work means everything to me & even more important to my Family, Friends & Clients. Sorry for the novel, but just want all the reader's to fully understand my situation here. Please tell me how to re-approach this with regard to Product, Step by Step Formula, etc. (spending more money to do the right thing is not nor will be an object). Admins, I hope I put this in the correct thread area, if not please move it as you see fit. I thank anyone & everyone in advance.

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Very Humbly yours,

DD Feed back please
 
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Hey if you could get another picture up, id say we could help you out a whole lot more. I clicked on the bottom photo but it was blurry lol( though i can still see the damage, just not well enough)
 
Hi Dave,

It's good to be thorough and it's always good to seek out help when you run into something difficult.

One thing for sure, continue doing our test spots on the roof until you dial in a process that works, that way you're working on what's probably the worst defects and condition of paint, (horizontal surface), but it's also out of eye-sight which is a small little safety factor.

Let's see if others chime in with their ideas and advice.

If you can, try to retake the photo and put a little piece of tape, or clay or even a quarter on the panel you're trying to photograph and this will give your camera something on the surface to focus on which will usually enable our camera to also focus on the paint surface which is your goal.



Good job on the photo resize, upload and insert.


:dblthumb2:
 
Did you try working at speed 6? Did you mark the backing place to see if the DA was rotating.
 
Hi Mike, the new WG products arrived yesterday, so I will be going to the garage for more testing today. Thank you for the tip's, they are greatly appreciated.




Hi Sean, yes I tried speed 6 as well & my backing plates are marked & the pad was rotating. Good points too consider & thank you. Hey I like your new website, looks great.
 
detaildave said:
Hi Mike, the new WG products arrived yesterday, so I will be going to the garage for more testing today. Thank you for the tip's, they are greatly appreciated.




Hi Sean, yes I tried speed 6 as well & my backing plates are marked & the pad was rotating. Good points too consider & thank you. Hey I like your new website, looks great.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Did you try a yellow pad or purple wool? Did you try the new hydro pads?
 
sullysdetailing said:
Thanks. Did you try a yellow pad or purple wool? Did you try the new hydro pads?
Click to expand...

Yes tried yellow. Nope don't have a purple wool yet (christmas to myself with next order). No hydro pads, mine are the LC "Smart"pads.

Hi Sean, ok new test spot yellow pad, then followed by orange, however the orange still isn't removing what I think is micro-marring (chalky appreance after completed passes) from the yellow. New heater to bring up the amibent temp is ceratinly helping now. I have a new black (junkyard) hood which has plenty of swirls & I'm gonna break-out the dewalt with my new WG products to see if I can dial in a new process. Unfortunatley, customer had have the truck back until next week, family emergency. So I'll be back with an update when he returns it to me. Sean & Mike, Thanks for the help / advice. This one still has me scratching my head.
 
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Dave the WG stuff isn't going to touch that paint on the truck. I have done several like that and WG just isn't strong enough. I replied to your pm and when dad goes for test I will calll you then and get you going in the right direction.:dblthumb2:
 
Try a more agressive compound like M105 with orange pad. If the orange pad doesn't do it for you step up to a stronger pad.
 
Just to note, WG isn't a strong compound, its a medium to light strength Swirl Mark Remover. It could be that it will require a rotary buffer with a wool pad to provide enough cutting power to fix this paint job.

It's also possible that the problem is with the paint itself and no amount of polishing will fix the problem.

Where you at with this Dave?


:)
 
It is handled and the paint will be corrected. Good talking with you today Dave.:dblthumb2:
 
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