Need help getting my trucks black paint into better shape

[BrBa]

I am new to the forum but have already learned a lot from reading it on and off over the years. I just bought a black 2006 Nissan Frontier. Overall it is in good shape but when you look up close, the paint has tons of swirl marks and minor looking scratches. There is quite a few spots where the previous owner used touch up paint but it is very obviously touch up paint. There is also a bunch of bug splatter marks on the front bumper and front part of the hood. I am a newbie when it comes to detailing and it seems that whenever I bought bought a product in the past, it seems to make no difference. Yet I come onto this forum and I see people turning cars that look like they need repainted into show cars. I am looking to fix the issues in the pictures below the best I can. I know I can pay a detailer to do it, but I also know for roughly the same price, I can buy all the required stuff and do it myself.

I'm looking for recommendations on the best way to minimize all of the stuff in the pics below. I have heard of Dr. color chip for scratches and chips, but what about removing the touch up paint that is already there, I am considering hiring the touch up paint out to someone if you guys recommend that. Also I have no machine polisher. I was planning on doing as much as I can by hand but it is needed, I can afford to get one of the cheaper options like the Porter Cable everyone uses, unless there are better options in the ~$120 price range. I am really lost on what products to use because there ares so many of them. I can wash my truck and claybar it, but I do not know what products to use to remove the scratches, swirles, and residue. I would like to actually remove the swirls if possible instead of just filling them in.

Bug splatter marks on the front end along with some type of residue(maybe):

Ugly touch up paint, swirl marks, and light scratches:

 

[B5visser]

From the looks of it, there are some areas that look permanently damaged and may need to be resprayed.

Depending where you're located, you may be able to reach out to another enthusiast/ professional on AGO in your area to give you a better idea of what can be accomplished!

Good luck and let us know on the progress!

SaveSave​

 

[BrBa]

From the looks of it, there are some areas that look permanently damaged and may need to be resprayed.

Depending where you're located, you may be able to reach out to another enthusiast/ professional on AGO in your area to give you a better idea of what can be accomplished!

Good luck and let us know on the progress!

SaveSave​

Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the issues were beyond repair. I can live with that since this is a 12 year old truck. If I could fix a majority of it, I would be very happy. I am located in Orlando, FL. Don't know how to locate other members that are in the area though.

 

[custmsprty]

I thought you must be in Florida based upon the nature of the bug splatters, love bugs. Those etchings are permanent. I had a 2003 Xterra for 12 years and missed some on the roof and nothing would get them out. You will definitely need a da to fix that paint.

 

[PaulMys]

I thought you must be in Florida based upon the nature of the bug splatters, love bugs. Those etchings are permanent. I had a 2003 Xterra for 12 years and missed some on the roof and nothing would get them out. You will definitely need a da to fix that paint.

I've heard you mention these Love Bugs before, Mark.

What's inside these bugs? Acid?

What a nasty thing to have to deal with. :/

 

[custmsprty]

I've heard you mention these Love Bugs before, Mark.

What's inside these bugs? Acid?

What a nasty thing to have to deal with. :/

Yeah acid and they splatter and dry like epoxy resin. They are nearly impossible to get off once they have baked on. You have to soften them up and scrub away with a bug sponge. They laugh at a pressure washer. They will usually etch paint in about 72 hours or so.

 

[BrBa]

I thought you must be in Florida based upon the nature of the bug splatters, love bugs. Those etchings are permanent. I had a 2003 Xterra for 12 years and missed some on the roof and nothing would get them out. You will definitely need a da to fix that paint.

Crap, that't not what I wanted to hear. In your experience, does polishing them with a DA reduce the bug gut etching appearance at all? I have never had this issue with bug guts on my previous vehicles but I'm guessing the previous owner didn't wash the truck very regularly.

 

[Desertnate]

How far polishing will get you with the bug splatters depends on how deep they are etched. Those splatters on the a-pillar look white on your black paint, almost like chips. Do they go all the way to the primer?

I don't live in Florida, but one of our family vehicles spends most of it's days commuting through rural farm areas and we take it on trips across Missouri and Oklahoma. In the Spring and Summer, bugs are pretty fierce. Not Love Bug levels, but still quite bad. I've had some etch Toyota paint in less than 24 hours. I've found giving the spots a good clay and polishing with a DA reduces their visibility, but once they've pitted the clear coat it will always be slightly visible.

 

[fightnews]

Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the issues were beyond repair. I can live with that since this is a 12 year old truck. If I could fix a majority of it, I would be very happy. I am located in Orlando, FL. Don't know how to locate other members that are in the area though.

U should get a buffer and some ultimate compound and polish.and some clay

 

[Bobby B.]

Love Bugs are the wurst. Keep a bottle of Waterless Wash and some Microfiber Towels in your truck. Always remove Love Bugs ASAP. Love Bugs will damage your paint.

Me and Mike Phillips will be in Orlando, FL this Saturday at the Ace Cafe from 8am - 10am. We would be glad to look over your truck for you and give you some advice on what products to use to detail your truck. https://www.autogeek.net/ace-cafe.html

 

[Paul A.]

Those bug etchings look familiar! They are areas and little dots of missing paint. No amount of machine work will do anything to improve them and usually make them more noticeable from compound/polish deposits. It's a lot of work but you can clean them out and fill them in with Dr. Colorchip paint.

I would suggest a couple of things if you can swing it: 1. A starter DA kit and about 10-12 thin pads and 2. Dr Colorchip for your paint color. You will have a very difficult time trying to improve the looks of your paint by hand. A machine is so much faster and more effective. It will still take time but you'll see faster results making it actually enjoyable. The Dr CC can be used on areas of missing paint...deep scratches, chips here and there and the bug etchings.

Do you have any light compounds or polishes already?

You won't get it perfect by any means (like you said, its 12 year old paint that's been neglected) but you can substantially improve the appearance. Especially black!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I am new to the forum but have already learned a lot from reading it on and off over the years.

Thanks for sharing this little tidbit.

I just bought a black 2006 Nissan Frontier. Overall it is in good shape but when you look up close, the paint has tons of swirl marks and minor looking scratches. There is quite a few spots where the previous owner used touch up paint but it is very obviously touch up paint.

I'm very confident that in one of the Dr. Color Chip videos we made that it was stated you can use Acetone to remove old touch-up paint of unknown origins.

I know most people understand Acetone is a VERY aggressive solvent that can and will harm a lot of surfaces - BUT - like I said, I'm very confident it was stated it can be used to remove old touch up paint without harming a FACTORY CLEARCOAT.

If I ever get time, I'll watch the videos and locate it this segment unless I can get a volunteer?


For reference, not just for you but for all the lurkers that may find and read this thread into the future, here's my how-to article for using Dr. Color Chip.

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems

Here's the link to a number of videos we made showing how to use the Dr. Color Chip system,

Dr. ColorChip How-To Videos with Dan McCool and Mike Phillips - CompetitionReadyTV.com and Autogeek.com


Check out video #3 for fixing bug splatter etchings.


NOTE: In my Dr. Color Chip how-to article, I answer the question,


Question: Do I use Dr. Color Chip before or after buffing out the car?

Answer: After buffing out the car.

There is also a bunch of bug splatter marks on the front bumper and front part of the hood. I am a newbie when it comes to detailing and it seems that whenever I bought bought a product in the past, it seems to make no difference. Yet I come onto this forum and I see people turning cars that look like they need repainted into show cars. I am looking to fix the issues in the pictures below the best I can. I know I can pay a detailer to do it, but I also know for roughly the same price, I can buy all the required stuff and do it myself.

Correct.

People come to this forum - get head knowledge first - then take what they learn to their garage and have success. Like I always say, detailing a car starts with the brain not the buffer. :laughing:

I'm looking for recommendations on the best way to minimize all of the stuff in the pics below. I have heard of Dr. color chip for scratches and chips, but what about removing the touch up paint that is already there, I am considering hiring the touch up paint out to someone if you guys recommend that.

The Dr. ColorChip system is what I call,

Bubba-Proof

Their paints are PROPRIETARY to them as is their SEALACT or paint removing solvent. (Sealact won't work with other touch-up paints, thus the acetone mention above).

By bubba-proof here's what I mean. NOBODY is an expert at anything the first time they do a "new thing", including me. The good news with the Dr. ColorChip system is if after applying some of their touch-up paint you're not happy with the results, simply remove it and try again. It's just a matter of

Practice makes perfect

So have confidence in yourself and have confidence in the brand that --> you can do it.

Also I have no machine polisher. I was planning on doing as much as I can by hand but it is needed, I can afford to get one of the cheaper options like the Porter Cable everyone uses, unless there are better options in the ~$120 price range.

Trust me on this... wait for a sale or when there's a coupon offered that can be used on anything, and then get the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher. It's very well built. It has tons of power. It's the perfect polisher for the enthusiast. Here's an article I wrote just a few months ago and as you scroll down the article you will find TONS of INFORMATION on how to get into machine polishing.


Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips

I am really lost on what products to use because there ares so many of them. I can wash my truck and claybar it, but I do not know what products to use to remove the scratches, swirles, and residue. I would like to actually remove the swirls if possible instead of just filling them in.

Hold on for the recommendation for this question.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I am really lost on what products to use because there ares so many of them.

I can wash my truck and claybar it, but I do not know what products to use to remove the scratches, swirles, and residue.

Here's an old 2-door Chevy... looks good from this angle...

Here's my trusty dusty swirl finder light....

Here's the light on the paint...

This car is sitting out in the garage right now waiting for me. (still not polished, everything looks good under florescent lights)

My promise to you

I will show you how to fix your truck's paint using this car, the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher as well as the products and pads and I'll keep it simple simon.

You need to hang tight because I have a lot of hot projects on my plate that I must attend to first before I can go have some fun in the garage. Probably won't be able to post the picture until tomorrow.


And oh yeah...

Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

:welcome:

 

[Desertnate]

Could this be a new product reveal or review?

 

[Automoglow]

Love Bugs are the wurst. Keep a bottle of Waterless Wash and some Microfiber Towels in your truck. Always remove Love Bugs ASAP. Love Bugs will damage your paint.

Me and Mike Phillips will be in Orlando, FL this Saturday at the Ace Cafe from 8am - 10am. We would be glad to look over your truck for you and give you some advice on what products to use to detail your truck. https://www.autogeek.net/ace-cafe.html

With the new partnership, will products be available to purchase at Ace Cafe now?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I am new to the forum but have already learned a lot from reading it on and off over the years.

I am really lost on what products to use because there ares so many of them.

Click link - follow along

One-Stepping a 1971 2-Door Chevy - Facebook Live videos

 

[fightnews]

Thanks for sharing this little tidbit.





I'm very confident that in one of the Dr. Color Chip videos we made that it was stated you can use Acetone to remove old touch-up paint of unknown origins.

I know most people understand Acetone is a VERY aggressive solvent that can and will harm a lot of surfaces - BUT - like I said, I'm very confident it was stated it can be used to remove old touch up paint without harming a FACTORY CLEARCOAT.

If I ever get time, I'll watch the videos and locate it this segment unless I can get a volunteer?


For reference, not just for you but for all the lurkers that may find and read this thread into the future, here's my how-to article for using Dr. Color Chip.

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems

Here's the link to a number of videos we made showing how to use the Dr. Color Chip system,

Dr. ColorChip How-To Videos with Dan McCool and Mike Phillips - CompetitionReadyTV.com and Autogeek.com


Check out video #3 for fixing bug splatter etchings.


NOTE: In my Dr. Color Chip how-to article, I answer the question,


Question: Do I use Dr. Color Chip before or after buffing out the car?

Answer: After buffing out the car.






Correct.

People come to this forum - get head knowledge first - then take what they learn to their garage and have success. Like I always say, detailing a car starts with the brain not the buffer. :laughing:




The Dr. ColorChip system is what I call,

Bubba-Proof

Their paints are PROPRIETARY to them as is their SEALACT or paint removing solvent. (Sealact won't work with other touch-up paints, thus the acetone mention above).

By bubba-proof here's what I mean. NOBODY is an expert at anything the first time they do a "new thing", including me. The good news with the Dr. ColorChip system is if after applying some of their touch-up paint you're not happy with the results, simply remove it and try again. It's just a matter of

Practice makes perfect

So have confidence in yourself and have confidence in the brand that --> you can do it.




Trust me on this... wait for a sale or when there's a coupon offered that can be used on anything, and then get the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher. It's very well built. It has tons of power. It's the perfect polisher for the enthusiast. Here's an article I wrote just a few months ago and as you scroll down the article you will find TONS of INFORMATION on how to get into machine polishing.


Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips

Hold on for the recommendation for this question.

Well you sold me on the Dr colorchip, I've been on the fence about it for a while. I didn't know you did it after buffing or that you could take it off if you weren't satisfied.

Now I'm motivated I hate the rock chips and road rash on my car

 

[BrBa]

How far polishing will get you with the bug splatters depends on how deep they are etched. Those splatters on the a-pillar look white on your black paint, almost like chips. Do they go all the way to the primer?

I don't live in Florida, but one of our family vehicles spends most of it's days commuting through rural farm areas and we take it on trips across Missouri and Oklahoma. In the Spring and Summer, bugs are pretty fierce. Not Love Bug levels, but still quite bad. I've had some etch Toyota paint in less than 24 hours. I've found giving the spots a good clay and polishing with a DA reduces their visibility, but once they've pitted the clear coat it will always be slightly visible.

They don't seem that deep to me but my idea on how thick the base and clear are is probably not very accurate. The bug splatter spots are definitely discolored, they look whitish-grey so they could very well be primer. I will try claying and polishing to see if it gets me anywhere. If not, I will pursue something else. Thanks for the help.

Love Bugs are the wurst. Keep a bottle of Waterless Wash and some Microfiber Towels in your truck. Always remove Love Bugs ASAP. Love Bugs will damage your paint.

Me and Mike Phillips will be in Orlando, FL this Saturday at the Ace Cafe from 8am - 10am. We would be glad to look over your truck for you and give you some advice on what products to use to detail your truck. https://www.autogeek.net/ace-cafe.html

Thanks, I will definitely try to attend.

Click link - follow along

One-Stepping a 1971 2-Door Chevy - Facebook Live videos

Thanks a lot Mike, I feel very confident following your advice. I have added the Griot's 6" to my shopping list and I will definitely be giving the Dr. Color Chip a try. I look forward to following your detail of the Chevelle.

 

[BrBa]

So I know it has been a long time since I made this thread but I finally picked up a Griots Garage 6" polisher. I also spent the better part of 5 hours watching autogeek detailing videos on youtube yesterday. I feel like I'm ready to dive into this except I still need to choose pads and compounds/polish. The available pad selection that exists seems limitless. It seems like I keep reading that Lake Country are one of the better pads and they I can't quite wrap my head around the selection. I don't have an unlimited budget to order all of the colors and see what works at the moment.

Judging from the pictures of the paint condition on my truck and for those who know how hard or soft Nissan's clear coat is, could anyone basically pick out some initial pads for me to get started? Also some advice on how many, what size (I have a 6" backing plate but I can purchase different size backing plate if needed), what type (thickness? css? waffle??) and colors?

Also I am in need of a compound/polishing system to try to get my paint as smooth as possible before I start with the Dr. Color Chip. I see good things said about HD speed and it's an all in one product so that seems nice. I see that Mike Phillips uses wolfgang products in a lot of his videos. I hear good things about Menernza also. As a noob with a limited budget, it is somewhat hard to decide between all of the endless options. Anyone care to throw out some recommendations?

If you had my truck to detail, and only had a Griots 6" DA, what would your Autogeek order look like in order to get the paint looking better?

Thanks for any and all help!

 

[MikeC78]

First, I would grab a Griot’s 5” packing plate, vented would be more ideal. Then, I’d grab the Lake County 5” ThinPro pads. I use the orange and white mostly, depending on paint and condition. Starting off, you could get away with possibly 6 of each, IMO. Depending on how much cleaning you do of the pads between panels. Get a pad brush and use compressed air, if you have it. I would also grab a few microfiber’s if you can, for more aggressive polishing of the bad spots. The UroFiber’s are some of my favorites for this. Griot’s makes some good ones too, if you want to stick to their system/brand.

Compounds and Polish decisions... Gonna yield a lot of answers from different people. My personally favorite for compound is my trusty old Menzerna FG400(unsure of new name?) and Griot’s Fast Gloss Compound. (Griot’s is a bit pricier and easier to work with.). For polishing, I like to use either HD Polish+ or Menzerna 3500/3800 (Unsure of new model numbers). I tend to grab and get results almost 99% of the time with HD Polish+. I haven’t even tried Griot’s polish yet, but I hear they are great too, just a bit pricier. Hope this helps a bit and good luck!