Need help with possible powder coating overspray

Ford Fest

Ford Fest

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A friend of mine has a business that shares a wall with a powder coating company. during the summer months, the powder company kicks the doors open to help cool the shop. My friend noticed a extremely gritty feel that is all over their car. I too had the same grit after my car was in the lot for just an hour. Their car is there for 10-15 hours per day.

For my car, I used Meg clay bar kit. It took both bars and several hours to remove this overspray or whatever it is. I've offered to help my friend, but not sure if I should use the same process or something else. Their car was coated/sealed with something they purchased at the car dealer when they purchased it new a couple years ago. I don't want to remove the c/s if possible. They said this c/s is guaranteed for life :) I'm thinking maybe they should take it to the dealer, but I'm concerned they won't know how to remove the overspray and tell them they need to do something major that is not covered under the guarantee.

Any thoughts?
 
If it's severe personally I would remove with gasoline or reducer and kiss your applied protection goodbye.If it's all over the black trim and rubber the above chemicals will destroy the material.Start with either a medium or agressive clay bar.If it's working with the clay, then time and patience will be needed to remove safely.
 
Knowing what I know about powdercoat (which isn't much), I don't see how it can be powdercoat "overspray" as powdercoat is electrostaticly applied and then "melted" onto the substrate..in the same way laser toner is a powder that is then melted onto the paper.

So how powdercoat overspray would be as difficult to remove as you suggest is beyond me. Are they don't regular painting in there as well?
 
I'm with you on the powder process. I'm not sure what it could be. They also do wheel repair. Maybe it is something from that process???
 
Powder coat will not bond without 200 ++ heat. Wheel stuff quite likely the cause. Above surface contaminates need clay.
 
Well what you could do is just clay your friends car and then get him to put on McKee 37s paint coating. Dealership won't realize the difference anyway and now your friend will get actual protection instead of that.. Simoniz stuff that they most likely used.
 
Bumping this back to the top. I'm going to work on my friends car and wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. Whatever is on the car has enought grit that a wool mitt loaded with suds doesnt slide at all on the surface. When i used clay on my car, the clay turned completely black after a small section.

My current plan is to use clay, but wondered if a Nanoskin product or one of the decontamination pads designed for an orbital might be worth a try. Forgot to mention this is a newer car.
 
If you use clay maybe go for a more aggressive clay? Like a clay magic medium grade clay bar. It'll rip out the bonded contaminants much more easily. The meguiars clay bar is a fine grade clay bar and probably wont do much. After you clay go over the paintwork with some finishing polish to correct any marring from the clayimg process and then follow up with your wax or sealant of choice :)
 
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