Need quick help; spring products suggestions

raysaint

raysaint

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My online supplier is having a sale for 2 more days. If you saw any of my posts from last fall, we have a new Red Soul Mazda CX-30, Nov. 6th.

November: I iron deconned, clayed & but the clay mitt marred the paint, noticeable when the sun shines on it and you view it from an angle. I didn't have weather time to correct, so I went ahead with a coat of Klasse Sealant and a coat of 303 Spray & Rinse Sealant for winter protection. So far so good, still beading.
Also did 2 coats of Duragloss Black Trim dressing on all black trim (had an old bottle still laying around.)

Did the 303 on the rims, as they were coming off for winter tires.

So the spring plan is:

Prep for correction (do I need to strip the sealant, or will winter washing and time do that?) I have Eraser.

Polish out the clay marring (I have a porter cable and white/orange/black pads); what polish to use? and which pads? and what speed?
After correction, what to use before a new coat of Klasse? (I'm going with Klasse versus ceramic, as I have a full bottle to use up)

The black trim is new, so a good cleaning should be enough to prep it. I'd like to do it with ceramic or something similar for durability; suggestions? (my online store doesn't have Cerakote or UTTG.)

While the summer wheels are off, I can do them inside and out. Should I go ceramic? an easy application product, like the 303 spray?

And after hand washes in the driveway, should i use a drying aid, and which one? Something appropriate over Klasse. I have old Aquawax, but it can be finicky to get off, or is that just me. And will drying aids build up over time too much?
Because i will want to do another coat of Klasse in the fall.

Anything I'm forgetting, or anything you think I should include in the spring process?

I have lots of towels, soap, products for chrome, plastic, etc.

Thanks to all in advance.
 
I just gave this a quick skim, but when I have a wheel opportunity like that, I would definitely use a "real" coating. It will pay off down the road.
 
I would order Cerakote trim from Amazon it’s been amazing for me.

If not I would go Dlux or Gyeon trim. Both rate well.

Agreed wheels off…. Coat them…..

All that effort I would coat the paint. They have gotten a lot easier.

For polishes I like the griots boss creams.


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Cerakote it is for the trim. Any suggestions for wheel coating?

And I heard good things about Carpro reflect for polish.

Any help on the rest of my questions is much appreciated; gotta put an order in tomorrow.
thank you.
 
Not many replies, so I had to read a lot of stuff. Anyway, here is what I bought:

For black trim: Cerakote
For wheels: Gtechniq5 (will probably also spray them with the 303 spray/rinse sealer)
For new summer tires: Carpro Darkside
For correction: Carpro Reflect, SuperFine polish, and a couple white waffle pads
For paint: gonna use up my Klasse sealant, and top with 303; after washes, I have some old quik detailer and some old Aquawax, mix them together and use that as drying aid

Any issues or tips for this plan?

Questions: 1) I bought Brake Buster last year, will it harm the wheel or tire coatings? Or should I just use wash soap? (hate to have wasted money on BB)

Thanks again.
 
Brake Buster is quite mild on wheels (it will not harm coatings) but I much prefer to use it undiluted as a tire cleaner which it's great at. For my wheels I just use whatever car shampoo I happen to be using that day. With coated wheels normal shampoo is all you need.
 
raysaint said:
So the spring plan is:

Prep for correction (do I need to strip the sealant, or will winter washing and time do that?) I have Eraser.
Click to expand...

Eraser isn't a product you use before correction. You use it afterwards to get all the polishing oils off so your sealant or coating will bond to the paint better. Not all sealants require this, but most high solids coatings do.

Prep for correction would be giving the car a really good wash and then claybar. Please note that unless you're going to give it a good polishing, I'd probably not clay the vehicle.

Polish out the clay marring (I have a porter cable and white/orange/black pads); what polish to use? and which pads? and what speed?
Click to expand...

What brand are the pads?

For polish, I'm a big fan of the Griots BOSS family of polishes, but I'm sure you'll get recomendations for other brands too.

I always do a test spot...or serveral...to guide my decision on pad and polish. If the car is in good shape, I would start with a polish and the milder pad. If that doesn't correct enough, I'd go to a more aggressive polish on the same grade of pad and try again. If you're still not happy I'd go up a step on the pad. Wash rinse repeat until you dial in a combination that provides the results your after. It takes a little patience to dial in the right combination on a vehicle you've not worked on before and with tools and products you've never used.

After correction, what to use before a new coat of Klasse? (I'm going with Klasse versus ceramic, as I have a full bottle to use up)
Click to expand...

If you're set on using Klasse SG, you don't have to do anything, but when I used Klasse products I always like using Klasse AIO and then Klasse SG on top


And after hand washes in the driveway, should i use a drying aid, and which one? Something appropriate over Klasse. I have old Aquawax, but it can be finicky to get off, or is that just me. And will drying aids build up over time too much?
Because i will want to do another coat of Klasse in the fall.
Click to expand...

Any reputable product will work. I used Sonus Spritz with Klasse. Rumor had it the Sonus products had small amounts of Klasse SG in them, but I don't think you could ever prove it. Either way, they worked well together.

Most drying aids/quick detailers don't last more than a week or two, so build up really isn't a big deal. If you're worried about them interfering with another application of Klasse, I'd just hold off on using a drying aid for a few weeks just to make sure there isn't anythig there. In all honesty though, I doubt the Klasse is that finiky and should be just fine.
 
I would get more pads. Atleast 6… what brand/cut are your white waffle pads?

Other than your LSP I think everything else sounds good. And yes Eraser is for after polishing to leave a clean surface for coating. If I remember reading right you won’t need to use it with Klasse.


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Sorry for the confusion, yes I was planning on using Eraser after polishing, second wash, then the LSP.
The white pads are Rupes white waffle for polishing. Will 2 pads not do a whole car?
The car was new last November, I clayed it then, that's why I'm polishing this spring, to correct the surface clay marring. I bought the Carpro super fine Reflect polish.
 
raysaint said:
Sorry for the confusion, yes I was planning on using Eraser after polishing, second wash, then the LSP.
The white pads are Rupes white waffle for polishing. Will 2 pads not do a whole car?
The car was new last November, I clayed it then, that's why I'm polishing this spring, to correct the surface clay marring. I bought the Carpro super fine Reflect polish.
Click to expand...

The wash after removing polish and eraser not needed. I would remove polish sh with microfiber damp with rinsless wash.

I would check up on Klasse. Some sealants and waxes like being put on top a freshly polished surface with no eraser type products. I’ve read they can adhere better.

If you are just lightly polishing/jeweling the paint with no correction needed then yes 2pads will work. Any correction and you’ll be loading up pads with polish. If only two in that a case blow out with air.

Brushes won’t do enough.


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Removing polish with ONR, (how diluted?), would that not leave polymer residue, or would I then dry it all off again with clean towel?
I'll check the Klasse literature, and could still use Eraser or alcohol if it says Ok, rather than ONR.
Not sure if I'm jewelling or correcting, but I'm gonna get more pads anyway.

And if I'm using Darkside on the tires, will diluted Brake Buster shorten it's durability? I maybe wasted money on BB, being that I'm coating the rims and using Darkside, probably with some old gel on top, that I still have kicking around.
 
raysaint said:
Removing polish with ONR, (how diluted?), would that not leave polymer residue, or would I then dry it all off again with clean towel?
I'll check the Klasse literature, and could still use Eraser or alcohol if it says Ok, rather than ONR.
Not sure if I'm jewelling or correcting, but I'm gonna get more pads anyway.

And if I'm using Darkside on the tires, will diluted Brake Buster shorten it's durability? I maybe wasted money on BB, being that I'm coating the rims and using Darkside, probably with some old gel on top, that I still have kicking around.
Click to expand...

256:1 the polymers ONR has aid in cleaning and leave nothing behind. Don’t use wash and wax. Version.

Yeah I believe BB would harm Darrkside more than soap and water and all you need on coated wheel.

DarkSide wasn’t too durable for me. After 10 days wasn’t impressed with looks. Daily driver 23 miles round trip….


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Six pads will make the job go much faster. A small bucket with a bit of P&S Rags to Riches solution in it comes in real handy for pre-soaking the dirty pads.
 
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Coatingsarecrack said:
I would order Cerakote trim from Amazon it’s been amazing for me.

If not I would go Dlux or Gyeon trim. Both rate well.

Agreed wheels off…. Coat them…..

All that effort I would coat the paint. They have gotten a lot easier.

For polishes I like the griots boss creams.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Just read the directions for Cerakote trim, and some reviews on other forums, and they specifically say don't use on new trim. I made it clear our car was new, wondering if I wasted more money?
Cerakote says it can take up to 9 years for trim to outgas.
They also said don't use on the black plastic that is between the windows at the windows edge (pillars?)
What's been anyones experience on a new car?
 
raysaint said:
Just read the directions for Cerakote trim, and some reviews on other forums, and they specifically say don't use on new trim. I made it clear our car was new, wondering if I wasted more money?
Cerakote says it can take up to 9 years for trim to outgas.
They also said don't use on the black plastic that is between the windows at the windows edge (pillars?)
What's been anyones experience on a new car?
Click to expand...

Did not read that. Used on 6 month old Subaru trim and my friend had no complaints. Looked fine when left.

If you ordered on Amazon send back.

And if you’re worried you’ll have that problem with all coatings. Maybe a sealant? If I was planning on coating I wouldn’t use anything till then. Other products may make it hard to clean.

Personally I would keep product free 12 months then coat. My plan for just purchased rav4


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Strange thing is, many on here recommend similar ceramic products for trim, Carpro or Gyeon, and many have used it with success. Are these people dealing with new trim or old?

I'm not worried about coatings, but want to use appropriate ones. I may keep the Cerakote for my 2011 CR-V, which hasn't been detailed in years; I may do an overhaul on it, now that I have so many new products for the new Mazda.
 
raysaint said:
Strange thing is, many on here recommend similar ceramic products for trim, Carpro or Gyeon, and many have used it with success. Are these people dealing with new trim or old?

I'm not worried about coatings, but want to use appropriate ones. I may keep the Cerakote for my 2011 CR-V, which hasn't been detailed in years; I may do an overhaul on it, now that I have so many new products for the new Mazda.
Click to expand...

Yeah most manufacturers gonna have same recommendations. The want to cover there rear as no real way to remove coating for trim. I would wait a year personally on new trim. My plan would s no product for at least a year then coat.

If trim looks good may wait longer.


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