Need Some Advice on Oxidation Returning after a week.

Coppertop80

Coppertop80

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I'm looking for serious help since I have never encountered this issue before.

I performed a full paint correction on a 2002 Ford dually (was heavily swirled and oxidized). So I broke out my trusted M105/M205 and for the drivers side Wheel tub that had been repainted by a real crappy body shop ( Damp sanded with 1500, 3000 and 5000 Trizact).

The truck looked flawless but a little over a week has gone by now and received a call from the owner saying I cheated him and just waxed his truck because the wheel tub has oxidation again.

I went to inspect the oxidation and couldn't beleave my eyes the oxidation had returned after just one week. Now I don't know what to do, I don't want to try Damp sanding it again because I'm thinking I'll sand through the clear.

If anyone experienced this issue before please help!!!

I don't want to refund his money after spending 3 days working on it.



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Isn't that part of the truck plastic or fiberglass.That part the tub notoriously fades quicker than the rest of the truck.Try using a cleaner wax or machine that part again.possible dieback from sanding it.is the whole tub oxidized or just parts of it.
 
Could be single stage paint,did you have paint transfer on your pads?
 
What did you use to remove sanding marr,wool or foam.put some car wash soap on it or mixed alcohol,if it fades worse it's not your promblem its single stage inferior paint.
 
Actually don't use any wax,just repolish with 205 and wash the tub with soap and see what happens.
 
I wish it was single stage paint, the tub is base/clear ( no visible paint to the pad). After I damp sanded, the tub was first compounded with 105 and wool pad on a rotary. Than refined with 105 on Meguiars microfibre cutting pad on DA polisher and finish off with M205 with Black Lake Country on DA polisher. Finally sealed by band with Jetseal.
 
you got me on this one.are you sure you were able to polish out all the sand marring.why did you jump from 1500 to 3000,I would redo the tub with compound and polish,then strip it and see what happens.can you get a better pic.
 
Going out on a limb here.. Is there a chance the owner has stripped the tub after your work to make a prblem he could easily sort with an eye to saving money?

Little with your process leaps out as a major problem.. assuming here that each step fully removed the previousl levels marring / marks etc..
 
Coppertop80 said:
I wish it was single stage paint, the tub is base/clear ( no visible paint to the pad). After I damp sanded, the tub was first compounded with 105 and wool pad on a rotary. Than refined with 105 on Meguiars microfibre cutting pad on DA polisher and finish off with M205 with Black Lake Country on DA polisher. Finally sealed by band with Jetseal.
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Sounds like the clear on the tub has been compromised. Using aggressive (very) methods on 14 year old paint is asking for problems. You probably didn't have a paint gauge that would measure plastic/fiberglass. If you didn't have a PG you should have gotten a release of liability, as you well know now the risk you are taking.

I may sound like a broken record, but never wet sand without a paint gauge.
 
You already wet sanded, polished it etc.

And it came back after a week, nothing you can do polish wise is going to make it last, it sounds like you know what your doing so it wasn't due to your polishing.

Its the paint and no matter how many times you polish or what you use it will come back.

Don't go to agressive taking more and more paint off then you are going to have to re spray it. And he's going to want the top of the line a1 best paint job he can get.

To avoid this mess, make a deal to give him back a portion of his money, and if its just those skirts that faded, explain to him that its the paint not your polishing job and show him how the rest of the car looks good.

This is a losing situation in my opinoin just don't make it worse by going through the paint. That will cost more time money and heart ache.

These problem jobs pop up there's no avoiding them.

When I first opened my shop i did a paint correction job on a single stage LeBaron of all cars.

I did it dirt cheap because I just opened up and wanted to build a reputation, he got water marks on it and it was my fault, lol

Guess who had to re-clay re-wash and re-polish a car I did basically as a favor all because I told him I would wax and it would be protected.
 
But if he went through the clear he would have had color on pads. While the black pad wouldn't show color, I doubt that would have been the step to break through. It's possible, but in my opinion not very probable.
 
DaveT435 said:
But if he went through the clear he would have had color on pads. While the black pad wouldn't show color, I doubt that would have been the step to break through. It's possible, but in my opinion not very probable.
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He might not have gone through the clear, but because the clear is so thin, it won't hold the shine and will turn hazy. Next step is base color on his pad.
 
Have you ever had that happen, or seen it? Not doubting you, just curious. I've never heard of clear being so thin it won't hold a shine...
 
Well after tons of searching, it seems the wheel tub has clear coat failure not oxidation. It had the chalky look before I polished it and it just returned and still looks 100 times better than it did. I'm gonna take the hit and give back his cash. Well I'll try first to give a portion back first. Well it's going to be a very expensive lesson learned.
Thanks for everyone's help
 
Not sure, other than expectation management, where your process caused or contributed toward clear coat failure..

I'd try and gain understanding from the customer that your work has done nothing to escalate the clear failure and that polishing can only do so much.. and whether you had spent the x hours on it or not would not have saved this aspect. However he paid for your time and effort and you provided that..

If the client wants factory new paint and durability then he ought re spray the vehicle and foot the bill associated....
 
DaveT435 said:
Have you ever had that happen, or seen it? Not doubting you, just curious. I've never heard of clear being so thin it won't hold a shine...
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Yes and yes. Sometimes the cloudiness will buff out, but will return later such as in this case.
Other times it won't buff out..in both cases, you might not have any color transfer to your pad.
 
Okay I really wish I took before pictures so everyone could see what this truck looked like and why I took the job in the first place (this was no work truck).

Yes it's 14 year old original paint (was only compounded and polished), M105 was used due to the fact the Clear was on the hard side and M105 yielded the best results on my test spot.

The Wheel tub was damp sanded due to heavy orange peel from a crappy respray so I leveled it down not just to remove what I thought was oxidation and I should have used a PG but I didn't go through the clear.

It's an expensive lesson learned
 
With the finished results you would know if you went through the clear,it would of looked horrible.was it hard to remove jet seal after.if any money is given back,I feel that you should give back some money to just repair the tub.maybe 250.00 and keep the rest.Those tubs always presents a promblem versus the rest of truck.That really stinks and feel your pain,but at the end of the day you have to do what's right.for me I would take it back and see if I could defenetly sense that the clear was damaged before giving back some money.Better pic would resolve this issue.
 
I rarely use my pg,it all boils down to common sense and feeling confident knowing when to say ok that's good enough.
 
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