Need some guidance on major correction job

[CanadianBacon]

Hi guys,

I am planning a major decontamination+correction on a faded, red, 2006 Sprinter van. The front end of the vehicle (Doors forward) is a factory clear-coated paint. After doors, a factory single stage.

The vehicle is covered in sap, debris, and heavily oxidized. There are also plenty of scratches from brush over the back side of the vehicle. I have done some work on the front end but need some advice to deal with the rest of the vehicle due to the extent of the work required and the single stage, with which I have minimal experience.

Proposed game plan (Using a cheap 8mm random from WaxedShine)

1. Power wash
2. Sonax, Iron-X, or other decontamination of choice.
3. Spot clean with AG sap remove or methyl-hydrate
4. Clay bar
5. Heavy correction with Microfiber pad+D300? Heavy Foam pad+M101?
6. Final polish or cleaner of choice and Meguirs 2.0

Really I'm curious what pad/compound choice would benefit me. I'm not going for a show finish, just to restore some life to the paint. and I'm working outside, on a rather large vehicle

Thanks for any advice!
View attachment 56065View attachment 56066

 

[dlc95]

For oxidized single stage I like open cell foam pads, like the purple Lake Country Kompressor, or even the pink Lake Country CCS / Buff and Shine Green.

I use Meguiar's M100, which usually finishes very well, but could benefit still from a second polishing step.

I've used M66 plenty of times to both final polish the paint, and add protection. Even on it's own it's a great All In One cleaner wax.

I'm not in the practice of going from a heavy cutting step straight to finishing wax/sealant.

Whatever you do, get a LOT of pads.

 

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

If you have a rotary and wool pads that would be my first choice. That paint is oxidized but not super terrible. Would definitely need a second polishing step, but I am betting the rotary would chop right through that oxidation and not take all that long to do.


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[GSKR]

Hi guys,

I am planning a major decontamination+correction on a faded, red, 2006 Sprinter van. The front end of the vehicle (Doors forward) is a factory clear-coated paint. After doors, a factory single stage.

The vehicle is covered in sap, debris, and heavily oxidized. There are also plenty of scratches from brush over the back side of the vehicle. I have done some work on the front end but need some advice to deal with the rest of the vehicle due to the extent of the work required and the single stage, with which I have minimal experience.

Proposed game plan (Using a cheap 8mm random from WaxedShine)

1. Power wash
2. Sonax, Iron-X, or other decontamination of choice.
3. Spot clean with AG sap remove or methyl-hydrate
4. Clay bar
5. Heavy correction with Microfiber pad+D300? Heavy Foam pad+M101?
6. Final polish or cleaner of choice and Meguirs 2.0

Really I'm curious what pad/compound choice would benefit me. I'm not going for a show finish, just to restore some life to the paint. and I'm working outside, on a rather large vehicle

Thanks for any advice!
View attachment 56065View attachment 56066

Go with sonax products and plenty of foam pads.your initial goal is to make it shine.m101 may scour or micro marr the paint.Cutmax then 04 06 polish.Or maybe look at some all in one products being that its a moderate big job.If you want quality go sonax if you want a quickie go aio. Using a aio want last long especially on ss paint.Do it once and right the first time.If your budget allows you to purchase cut and finish as well as the other sonax products maybe that alone will give you awesome results.what I would do first is wash that whole truck down with cutmax remove all that dead paint.It will make your buffing process a bit easier.So buy all 3 cutmax cut and finish and the 04 06 polish.Im not a micropads guy I use foam on 95 percent of cars.But get 3 micros for stubborn areas. Top it off with polymer net shield and your good.

 

[GSKR]

Never heard that machine before. Heard of the company.your whole process is 3 things machine product and pads.may want to rethink buying at least a gg6.Otherwise with a cheap machine your killing yourself.

 

[coopermosley]

from my understanding, it would be in best interest to use a open cell foam cutting pad (as stated above). This will help with the loads of oxidation and paint you are pulling off. A foam pad can almost self clean so you can mow down all that oxidation more efficiently. It would take more time and pads if you used microfiber. open cell are also VERY easy to clean on the fly, a stiff brush can get a lot of residue off the pad. Good luck!

 

[PaulMys]

LOTS of real estate on that baby.

Good luck, and I hope you're in your 20's.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

The Meguires D300 and their microfiber cutting pads are a good place to start removing all that oxidized paint and correcting scratches. Just use a pad brush very frequently so remove the spent compound and old paint. Pack a lunch, it's going to be a long day.

 

[CanadianBacon]

For oxidized single stage I like open cell foam pads, like the purple Lake Country Kompressor, or even the pink Lake Country CCS / Buff and Shine Green.

I use Meguiar's M100, which usually finishes very well, but could benefit still from a second polishing step.

I've used M66 plenty of times to both final polish the paint, and add protection. Even on it's own it's a great All In One cleaner wax.

I'm not in the practice of going from a heavy cutting step straight to finishing wax/sealant.

Whatever you do, get a LOT of pads.

For sure! I think going foam seems to be the best choice due to the sheer quantity of paint that is ground off with the SS finish! Curious, you recommend M100, how well does that work with a foamie as opposed to the microfiber as it was designed for?

Go with sonax products and plenty of foam pads.your initial goal is to make it shine.m101 may scour or micro marr the paint.Cutmax then 04 06 polish.Or maybe look at some all in one products being that its a moderate big job.If you want quality go sonax if you want a quickie go aio. Using a aio want last long especially on ss paint.Do it once and right the first time.If your budget allows you to purchase cut and finish as well as the other sonax products maybe that alone will give you awesome results.what I would do first is wash that whole truck down with cutmax remove all that dead paint.It will make your buffing process a bit easier.So buy all 3 cutmax cut and finish and the 04 06 polish.Im not a micropads guy I use foam on 95 percent of cars.But get 3 micros for stubborn areas. Top it off with polymer net shield and your good.

Thanks for the recommendation! Never used Sonax but I hear good things about them and the Cutmax seems like a good option.

LOTS of real estate on that baby.

Good luck, and I hope you're in your 20's.

Yup! Still....it hurts :laughing: