Need suggestions for Ruby Red F150

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116Rob

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Ok, first post total detail noob. I've got a 2013 Ruby Red Metallice Platinum F-150 on order. I've read several post about how to best protect my new ride, ok actually my wifes new ride! Below is a list I found posted on what to do from the start. Now I read this post about Blackfire Crystal Seal and I can't determine if I should apply the Collinite 845 I bought over top of this sealant or not? Keep in mind I will be applying all products by hand, I do not own a DA yet.

Also step 3 is polish. Do I really need to polish the vehicle and can I do it by hand? Recommended polish product?

I've learned alot by browsing this site but all the acronyms for a noobe is making it tough.

All suggestions are welcome.

1.Wash
2.Clay
3.Polish
4.Seal
5.Wax

Edit: Forgot to mention I live in Michigan and deal with mass amounts of road salt!
 
I would think you would be able to correct any defects on a new vehicle by hand. Not sure about that. I don't know how much you are looking to spend. But a new vehicle...if you can get it down to bare paint I would go with the Gtechniq EXO. Put it on and just wash it for probably 2 years then decide if you want to go with it again or something else. I haven't used it but I think what was on my car when I bought it was almost identical. I have opti-coat 2.0 that I am going to be using. I ordered that before the EXO was available. Either of these products will give you great protection for a long time. There is also Gtechniq Crystal quartz and silo seal??? I think that is the name...another long term product. When is the truck coming in??
 
If your using BF products, which I highly recommend, I would use the CS after you wax. Follow up with their waterless wash, rinseless wash, and Poly spray when you want to amp up the gloss.
 
07gtcs said:
If your using BF products, which I highly recommend, I would use the CS after you wax. Follow up with their waterless wash, rinseless wash, and Poly spray when you want to amp up the gloss.
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Your the first one I've read that recommended waxing prior to sealing. I'm not disputing but can anyone else confirm this procedure?
 
Hi Rob and Welcome to Autogeek Online!! :props:

A new truck and in one of my favorite colors, good luck with it!! :props:

Maybe you could share a little about yourself. How long have you been doing your own detailing and do you own a dual action polisher?

A dual action polisher and a selection of pads is paramount to consistency, efficiency, and uniformity.

Today's cars and trucks are painted with some of the most gorgeous colors produced to date. The paint formulations are much better than let's say 20 years ago and now most vehicles use the color coat / clear coat systems.

The clears on today's vehicles are formulated with UV inhibitors and are extra hard. Some clears actually have a tint color added to them to achieve the desired look. While this is a huge plus to the color coat, some of these clears can be a challenge to correct.

I like your process steps above. It's important early on to establish a maintenance regiment and defining the order of steps is a great start.

1. Wash - To begin thoroughly wash your new truck with a quality car wash using the two bucket method. This will keep the finish clean and rinsing the wash mitt each time allows dirt and other debris to stay in the bucket rather than reintroduce it finish.

2. Claying - Claying removes those particulates that have become embedded in the finish that regular washing could not remove. It takes no more than 30 to 45 minutes to properly clay an entire truck so this is time well spent. A daily driver should be clayed twice annually...

3. Polishing - Polishing removes minor surface defects and oxidation. While this "may" not be required on a new finish only a close inspection will tell the tale. Before I go any further, one thing I'd like to mention is goals and expectations.

Unless this is a show car most of our vehicles are driven daily. These daily drivers are subjected to heat, cold, wind, sun, rain, snow, salt... I think you see where I'm going with this. Keep your goals and expectations realistic.

Since your truck is new I would at the very least use a paint cleaner once the surface is completely clayed. A cleaner prepares the finish by removing residual wax, oxidation, sealants, and other contaminates thus giving the sealant or wax the perfect surface to bond to.

4. Sealants - Sealants have come a long way and are at their very best when applied after polishing or cleaning. Sealants bond to the paint forming a protective barrier between the finish and the elements.

Sealants are very easy to apply and if you live in the North are a must to survive a long hard winter. Personally I've found 2 coats of a quality sealant topped with coat of Collinite 845 wax provides nearly the ultimate protection.

5. Waxes - In my opinion, waxes give more depth and warmth to a finish than the traditional sealant. Unlike sealants, waxes sit on the surface rather than bond to it. While sealants of yesteryear failed when compared to waxes the delta between the two today has nearly vanished, that's how good sealants have become.

There are some newer products on the market that actually raise the bar on finish protection; Optimum Opti-Coat, CarPro CQuartz. These coatings are considered permanent coating and are reported to be harder then the actual clear finish. The downside is they're not as thick so they won't hold up forever.

There are so many quality products available through Autogeek. Selecting the right ones can be as complex or as simple as you choose.

Here are a few including a 1-step product

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar’s Clay
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
Sealant - Ultima Paint Guard Plus
1-Step - Duragloss 501
Sealant -Duragloss 105 TPP
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard
Wheel Cleaner - Meguiar's Wheel Brightener
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Interior Protectant - Ultima Interior Guard Plus

Porter Cable 7424xp

Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you learn the correct way moving forward. Mike has written so much great information, I like to reference it often as it spot on and an easy read...

Detailing Clay


 
First thanks for the response!

I'm new to the detailing world. I don't own a DA and I've never clayed a car. This truck will be my wifes daily driver and we drove her last vehicle 11years. I thought I would educate myself and see how I could best maintain the vehicle's exterior through the years. I've always just hand waxed and kept the interior's spotless. So far I have purchased the following from AG.

-Daytona speed masher wheel brush
-Klasse All-in-one polish
-Sonax Wheel Cleaner
-Complete Microfiber kit/include wash mit
-Gold Plush wash mit
-Grit Guard Dual Bucket Washing System
-Mothers Clay Bar System
-Montana 20" Wheel Brush
-Metro Full Size Vac N' Blo 4.0
-Collonite 845

I was hoping I could get by without a DA untill the spring and just do a clay, seal then hand wax when the truck arrives. The DA is a little intimidating at this point and I was hoping to educate my self more before I purchase. I also received a full set of free DVD's (don't remember the title) from AG that covers everything from the looks of it. I may pop on a DA after I read all the links you included and watch those DVD's.

Again thanks for all the links. This site is a wealth of information but it can be a little overwhelming at times with all the different products available.
 
116Rob said:
Again thanks for all the links. This site is a wealth of information but it can be a little overwhelming at times with all the different products available.
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Overwhelming huh, we've all been there! :laughing:

Do a bit of research and reading but don't overdo it otherwise you'll suffer from paralysis through analysis.... I'm not kidding! There are so many products, combinations, and opinions trying to pick out the "best" one can be like finding a needle in a haystack...

OK then, you have enough to get started!

Wash the truck thoroughly using the items you already have.

Let's work on the drivers side front fender...

Using your Mothers Clay Bar System, follow the easy to read directions and clay the entire panel....hmmmm that probably took you 5 minutes or less...Yup, that's how easy it is to clay......Now with a microfiber towel wipe the fender dry...

Klasse All-in-one polish is a great 1-step product. It chemically cleans and contains no abrasives so you won't have to worry about imparting swirls and scratches.

Shake the bottle well....if your done shake it some more to ensure the product is fully blended.

Apply some to a soft foam pad and apply it in a circular fashion. The key here is to apply it thin on a 2' X 2' section then wipe with a clean microfiber towel. If no foam pad are available then use a folded microfiber towel but keep it THIN!

Unlike many other products Klasse All-in-one polish doesn't need to sit and wait for it to haze, simply wipe and buff. Do this until you completely covered the entire fender.

Use this product sparingly; thin is in! You'll probably use no more than 2 ounces to do the entire truck..

Step back and enjoy the shine!! :props:

For additional protection apply a coat of Klasse Hight Gloss Sealant or a coat of Collinite 845 12 hours later.....
 
My .02 cents as a hobbyist - if there isn't much, if any correction to do to the paint, then clay, Klasse, and 845 by hand will give you a nice finish. I've done exactly that on my Charger when I didn't want to drag out the DA polisher.

I've read here that claying a vehicle will micro-mar it and you will have to then polish the car. I've used clay and gone straight to Wax and didn't notice any micro marring. YMMV with clay.

[EDIT] - And listen to BobbyG - he knows what he's talking about! :)
 
lokerola said:
My .02 cents as a hobbyist - if there isn't much, if any correction to do to the paint, then clay, Klasse, and 845 by hand will give you a nice finish. I've done exactly that on my Charger when I didn't want to drag out the DA polisher.

I've read here that claying a vehicle will micro-mar it and you will have to then polish the car. I've used clay and gone straight to Wax and didn't notice any micro marring. YMMV with clay.

[EDIT] - And listen to BobbyG - he knows what he's talking about! :)
Click to expand...

HA! Don't be so sure!! :laughing:

You touched on something that's stands out here....:props:

After washing and drying the panel perform the baggie test to see if the panel really requires claying. I do it out of habit because it's so easy and more often then not needs to be done.

If the panel passes the test there's no need to clay.....:props:
 
BobbyG said:
HA! Don't be so sure!! :laughing:

You touched on something that's stands out here....:props:

After washing and drying the panel perform the baggie test to see if the panel really requires claying. I do it out of habit because it's so easy and more often then not needs to be done.

If the panel passes the test there's no need to clay.....:props:
Click to expand...


Thanks for all the great info guys!:dblthumb2:
 
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