New black car paint

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starjammir

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Hey guys,
I just took delivery of my new black Honda. It was made 30 days ago tomorrow so I want to get some protection on it. I was going to clay it, then polish it with Poorboys black hole polish, then add some Wolfgang paint sealant on top.
My question is what pad do I use for applying this stuff if the paint is new? I have a Cyan, red, and an tangerine colored pad I can play with and of course the PC. I obviously don't want to mess the paint up as it is new, hence why I am asking for advice!
Thanks in advance!
Bill H.
 
starjammir said:
Hey guys,
I just took delivery of my new black Honda. It was made 30 days ago tomorrow so I want to get some protection on it.
Click to expand...

It was made or painted?

If it was "made", then the paint is fully cured and hardened by now, if it was just painted, then it's still safe to do whatever you want...


starjammir said:
I was going to clay it,
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Does it need to be clayed? If it was just painted it might need it as the best place to get paint overspray is while your car is parked somewhere around a "body shop".



starjammir said:
then polish it with Poorboys black hole polish, then add some Wolfgang paint sealant on top.
My question is what pad do I use for applying this stuff if the paint is new? I have a Cyan, red, and an tangerine colored pad I can play with and of course the PC.
Click to expand...

A normal procedure would be to apply the Poorboy's Black Hole with a polishing pad and then apply the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with the Crimson finishing pad.

There are other combos too for example you could apply the PBH using the Crimson pad and apply the WDGPS with a separate Crimson pad, just depends upon the condition of the paint and what you're trying to do.

starjammir said:
I obviously don't want to mess the paint up as it is new, hence why I am asking for advice!
Thanks in advance!
Bill H.
Click to expand...

We're here to help...


:xyxthumbs:
 
starjammir said:
then polish it with Poorboys black hole polish
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Do you have a poorboys polish? Or do you have the black hole glaze? If it is just a glaze, you wouldn't actually be correcting anything; you would be filling in the swirls and hiding them.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
It was made or painted?

If it was "made", then the paint is fully cured and hardened by now, if it was just painted, then it's still safe to do whatever you want...
Click to expand...

Its a 2012 so when the car was made and I guess painted too.



Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Does it need to be clayed? If it was just painted it might need it as the best place to get paint overspray is while your car is parked somewhere around a "body shop".
Click to expand...

I am assuming since it came from Canada to OH by train, then back to MI, it needed to be clayed, but I guess I am unsure at the moment.


Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
A normal procedure would be to apply the Poorboy's Black Hole with a polishing pad and then apply the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with the Crimson finishing pad.

There are other combos too for example you could apply the PBH using the Crimson pad and apply the WDGPS with a separate Crimson pad, just depends upon the condition of the paint and what you're trying to do.
Click to expand...

So I should use the PB BH with the tangerine pad, then finish with the red? pad for the sealant?

And for the other reply, it is an glaze, but I thought that the glaze would give it pop like a polish. Since it is a new car...well 70 miles old, it shouldn't need to have the scratches taken out as there is none.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
We're here to help...
Click to expand...


:xyxthumbs:
^
 
starjammir said:
Its a 2012 so when the car was made and I guess painted too.
Click to expand...

Okay, I get you... you have a brand new car, the paint is new but not fresh as it was fully baked-on at the factory months before it went to a dealership.

You can do anything you want to the paint at this point in time.

starjammir said:
I am assuming since it came from Canada to OH by train, then back to MI, it needed to be clayed, but I guess I am unsure at the moment.
Click to expand...

Check with the Baggie Test

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants




starjammir said:
So I should use the PB BH with the tangerine pad, then finish with the red? pad for the sealant?
Click to expand...

Yes, that will work.


My original question was because we didn't know if it was "factory" paint which should be flawless since it's brand new.

Or if it was repainted and if so probably filled with swirls from the guy that did any buffing, that's not the case so no problems to fix.

starjammir said:
And for the other reply, it is an glaze, but I thought that the glaze would give it pop like a polish. Since it is a new car...well 70 miles old, it shouldn't need to have the scratches taken out as there is none.
Click to expand...


Since it's brand new, check to see if it needs to be clayed, if not you shouldn't have to do anything but apply the sealant but if you want to make 100% sure you're working on a clean slate so to speak, then apply the PBHG with a polishing pad on about the 5 speed setting and then machine apply the sealant on about the 4 setting.


And have some fun while you're at it!

New car! Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Im the MAN
 
starjammir said:

And for the other reply, it is an glaze, but I thought that the glaze would give it pop like a polish. Since it is a new car...well 70 miles old, it shouldn't need to have the scratches taken out as there is none.
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Just checking to make sure :xyxthumbs: I know both black cars I bought brand new came with the Dealer Installed Swirl Option (DISO). So I wouldn't be surprised if your new black car was so equipped. If it isn't, then that is awesome!
 
I made sure to request from the dealer not to touch the car. The paint is 98% except for the rock chip I got on the way home.:nomore:
 
Awesome for you! I wish I could have gotten my black cars like that!
 
I got a 3m clear bra going on it Tuesday morning so I just have to avoid the bugs and rocks til then!
 
I wouldn't put anything on the paint until the clear bra goes on.
they will have to strip it off anyway
they may instill marks by touching and leaning on the car

good luck with your new ride
 
If your New car did indeed get transported on a train then you will more than likely want to clay it.

Before the bashing begins here is why.
Railroad dust gets on everything. You may not see it,especially since your car is black,but it is there. You may not even feel it. But why take the chance of sealing it in.

Normally the hacks at the dealership would of attempted to remove it by claying the car and then polishing it,which is where most DISO's come from. (Improper training and lack of proper tools and chemicals really)
But since you asked them not to touch it,more than likely it is still there.

best bet is to wash it clay and treat it with Carpro IronX. then seal it an wax it.
 
T.O.C. said:
Before the bashing begins here is why.
Railroad dust gets on everything. You may not see it,especially since your car is black,but it is there. You may not even feel it. But why take the chance of sealing it in.
Click to expand...

+1

I notice a lot of the trailers that end up being piggy-backed on rail typically have two verticle stripes of rust on the front and back of the container where the train wheels were slinging rust.


And good luck with that Honda brother. I have a 2008 in black (nighthawk black pearl). It doesn't take much to put marks in that paint though, so you're on the right track protecting it ASAP.
 
duck_commander said:
TOC - can i ask why you would use the IronX post clay and not pre claying?
Click to expand...



I know that Carpro recomends using IronX before claying, but I would rather remove the particles first then treat.

I'm pretty anal about my car care. I also clay my car's every time I wax them. I live with in a mile of the Kohler Co. foundry. So I prefer not to take any chances.
 
i totally understand... I never used to be OCD, but after buying a black truck; swirls and etchings are all i think about :work:


the way they recommend applying it and the way you do, both make sense to me... Actually when i think about it, your way 'seems' to be better... clay first to remove the 'above' surface contaminants, then use the Iron X to remove the below the surface cont....
 
Wish I could swerve Mike but those damn things seem to find my cars no matter what!

The clear bra guy said that I have to make sure the car is clean for him to put the bra on, but it is getting put on at a well know car detailing place not far from me.

So according to some of the guys here, I should clay it, then Iron X it? I have some of the Iron X stuff (man that stuff smells bad!) so it should be GTG.
 
starjammir said:
Wish I could swerve Mike but those damn things seem to find my cars no matter what!

The clear bra guy said that I have to make sure the car is clean for him to put the bra on, but it is getting put on at a well know car detailing place not far from me.

So according to some of the guys here, I should clay it, then Iron X it? I have some of the Iron X stuff (man that stuff smells bad!) so it should be GTG.
Click to expand...


I would clay and treat the area's where the bra will be,even go so far as polish it. but do not put any wax on it. Don't give them the chance to do any extra rubbing on your paint. as mentioned earlier honda paints are a little on the soft side breath on them heavy enough and you'll scratch it. wait for any real corrections till they get done with it,otherwise you'll just be doing it again.
 
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