New car, maintenance

[M+O]

Second post ! I have a bunch of questions and I’ll try not and be repetitive as I’m sure the same questions get ask over and over….

Anyway, I purchased a new vehicle (a couple weeks ago) and have a renewed love for detailing….the right way. After reading much about new car finishes and rail dust etc..I come to find that’s exactly what my car ended up having, A LOT of rail dust. I decided to take care of it myself, as I didn’t want some hack at the dealership driving my vehicle across town to some “detailer” to fix it. Nice of them to offer and no offense, but I want to do it.

So after much research I purchased a bunch of supplies => to wash (2 bucket), clay and seal/wax (all MF quality towels). I did that last weekend and it took me about six hours +/-. The rail dust was real hard to spot as the black “specs” were very tiny, but you could really feel it running your fingertips over the surfaces. It was everywhere.

Anyway I used the Meguiars clay kit and used the entire bottle quick detailer it came with (as the lube). Probably overkill but I had to really scrub. I still have to go over it again as I can still see some specs. The surface feels real smooth but I ran out of time and figured I would go back and clay it again in the next week or two

1. Which leads to my first question – did I do anything wrong at this point and is it OK to clay again soon (at least before winter)?

Next, I used Meguiars NXT to seal/wax => I couldn’t see any paint imperfections (swirls et al) so I am assuming I didn’t need to polish and went right to the NXT. I will take another look for swirls et al with good lighting this weekend. As to the last step application, that’s my next question

2. There are soooo many products and being a new car I can’t find any issues so assuming this is true, do I skip the polishing step, go to the sealant then a good carnauba only wax? From what I have read, it really comes down to personal preference and experience, so I won’t ask “what’s the best”. However I do want to try different products at this stage and or get input on say Menzerna Power Lock, Wolfgang sealant, Megs M20 or M21 then M26 or Klasse High Gloss Sealant etc. The importance here is a sealant THEN a good wax?

3. Per #2, what is the process of waiting for the sealant to cure and then apply wax => apply sealant, keep vehicle in garage overnight (don’t drive it at this point) apply the wax the next day (do you have to quick detail now as there is probably dust etc settled)? Point being, you don’t want to drive the car around for a day after being sealed and then apply the wax?

4. After the above has been performed, can I use a quick detailer (with a MF towel) after driving through the rain say several days after a detail and it is dry. Meaning apart from the obvious, how much “gunk” on the car is not safe to use a quick detailer?

5. Are California dusters ok to use on light dust (I have been doing so a few times)

6. I used #0000 steel wool on the tail pipes => outer chrome piece and the inner “steel” piece and then used a mothers metal polish I had. Was this OK (they look great)? Being its new, any alternative methods to keep them in check?

7. Lastly and a biggie for me - the winter process => prep before and maintenance during. Is this any different than a full detail right before the snow flies? More importantly, how do people maintain in winter, especially the cold and nasty MN winters? Obviously only a touch less type (every couple weeks), but are there things to know here => are certain ones better? I always thought those high pressure gas station washes are not good for the paint? Or can you still do it by hand? if so, how and where to go? I would think it’s impossible to wash by hand let alone wax/seal anything in a MN winter - short of going to a heated garage WITH wash capabilities, but that would require a lot of time to let the cad adj to temp and going back out into -20 below, ehew. I’m not aware of how people do this. There is a winter prep article at this site but it doesn’t really get into the specifics especially a MN winter, it’s not like it will be 35-40 degrees, it gets friggin cold.

Thanks for any assistance

 

[BobbyG]

For a new guy you do like to type, good for you!!

Congratulations on the new car and Welcome to Autogeek!

I'm glad you decided to take care of your own car! As I've been saying for the last 40 years; If you want it done right do it yourself! rops:

As you begin to detail you'll build knowledge based on your learnings and personal experience.

1. A through washing and claying was correct and needed according to your post. If you want to save yourself some money dissolve 2 ounces of your liquid car wash in 32 ounces of water and pour "it" into your favorite spray bottle. This works just as good but about 1/10 the cost.

Claying should be done twice annually, more often if airborne contaminates come in contact with the paint.

White is a difficult color so determine if any paint defects such as swirls are present. Claying by itself will impart some minor defects but can be easily polished out.

Wolfgang Swirl Remover and Menzerna PO106FA are two polishes I'd recommend.

2. Personally speaking you're right on the money here. I think it's important to use a sealer and the two you mention are right at the top of the list. One other I'd like to recommend is DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant.

While sealants are tough and provide long lasting protection I always add a layer of quality wax as added protection.

3. The majority of sealants require approximately 8 to 12 hours to completely cure and should not come in contact with any moisture or condensation, kept overnight in the garage is best!

Waxing the next day is preferable but not mandatory. The surface should be clean and free of dust, yes.

4. Yes. Drying a car with a microfiber towel and some detail spray is a great idea as it removes water and any dust that might be suspended in the droplets waiting to form water spots.

5. Yes, I've been using them for years.

6. Be careful with steel wool as it will scratch. I like to use a product that's made for polishing metal with a soft towel. These products contain chemicals designed for cleaning, polishing, and protecting metal surfaces.

7. A through cleaning and detail if paramount to keep your cars finish in tip top shape.

The winters in New England are some of the worst. If I can't do it at home I'll mix up some car wash and hot water in a 5 gallon bucket and head for the nearest manual car wash.

I like to use the pressure wand to soak down the surface and blast away anything that's loose. Once this is done then I'll use the soapy solution and a Microfiber sponge to wash the vehicle much like I'd do during the warmer months and rinse throughly.

I pull the car in the garage and leave it in there until it warms up then I'll spend a couple of hours with some detail spray and add a fresh coat of wax. Keep in mind that I'm trying to prevent damage to the paint and nothing more.

Could I give it a complete detail? Yes, and I have but following a regimented cleaning and washing during winter saves allot of wear and tear on the finish.

I hope this helps.

 

[bmw5541]

Second post ! I have a bunch of questions and I’ll try not and be repetitive as I’m sure the same questions get ask over and over….

Anyway, I purchased a new vehicle (a couple weeks ago) and have a renewed love for detailing….the right way. After reading much about new car finishes and rail dust etc..I come to find that’s exactly what my car ended up having, A LOT of rail dust. I decided to take care of it myself, as I didn’t want some hack at the dealership driving my vehicle across town to some “detailer” to fix it. Nice of them to offer and no offense, but I want to do it.

So after much research I purchased a bunch of supplies => to wash (2 bucket), clay and seal/wax (all MF quality towels). I did that last weekend and it took me about six hours +/-. The rail dust was real hard to spot as the black “specs” were very tiny, but you could really feel it running your fingertips over the surfaces. It was everywhere.

Anyway I used the Meguiars clay kit and used the entire bottle quick detailer it came with (as the lube). Probably overkill but I had to really scrub. I still have to go over it again as I can still see some specs. The surface feels real smooth but I ran out of time and figured I would go back and clay it again in the next week or two

1. Which leads to my first question – did I do anything wrong at this point and is it OK to clay again soon (at least before winter)? Never apply too much pressure when claying. You could end up marring the finish. You might need a more agressive clay. Try a medium grade clay, as the Megs kit is a fine grade (I think).

Next, I used Meguiars NXT to seal/wax => I couldn’t see any paint imperfections (swirls et al) so I am assuming I didn’t need to polish and went right to the NXT. I will take another look for swirls et al with good lighting this weekend. As to the last step application, that’s my next question If it looks good to you and you are happy with it, that is all that matters.

2. There are soooo many products and being a new car I can’t find any issues so assuming this is true, do I skip the polishing step, go to the sealant then a good carnauba only wax? Look at it under the right lighting conditions. Try a Brinkman to see if you are happy with how it looks. If you are satisfied with it, then you might want to use a cleaner wax/polish like P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish. From what I have read, it really comes down to personal preference and experience, so I won’t ask “what’s the best”. However I do want to try different products at this stage and or get input on say Menzerna Power Lock, Wolfgang sealant, Megs M20 or M21 then M26 or Klasse High Gloss Sealant etc. The importance here is a sealant THEN a good wax? If you are going to use both a sealant and wax, always apply the sealant forst and allow it enough time to cure before applying the wax. A sealant will give you more durability, and looks is subjective.

3. Per #2, what is the process of waiting for the sealant to cure and then apply wax => apply sealant, keep vehicle in garage overnight (don’t drive it at this point) apply the wax the next day (do you have to quick detail now as there is probably dust etc settled)? Point being, you don’t want to drive the car around for a day after being sealed and then apply the wax? Usually it takes about 6-12 hours to cure properly. Apply the wax the next day, and yes, you should give it a quick wipedown with QD before you apply the wax.

4. After the above has been performed, can I use a quick detailer (with a MF towel) after driving through the rain say several days after a detail and it is dry. Meaning apart from the obvious, how much “gunk” on the car is not safe to use a quick detailer? Yes, but remember the limitations of a QD. It is not meant to remove severe dirt.

5. Are California dusters ok to use on light dust (I have been doing so a few times) This is the subject of a lot of debates. Some love them and some hate them. If you use them, do not wash it as there is a coating on the fibers that you don't want to remove. Also, if you use it, very light pressure.

6. I used #0000 steel wool on the tail pipes => outer chrome piece and the inner “steel” piece and then used a mothers metal polish I had. Was this OK (they look great)? Being its new, any alternative methods to keep them in check? That is fine.

7. Lastly and a biggie for me - the winter process => prep before and maintenance during. Is this any different than a full detail right before the snow flies? More importantly, how do people maintain in winter, especially the cold and nasty MN winters? Obviously only a touch less type (every couple weeks), but are there things to know here => are certain ones better? I always thought those high pressure gas station washes are not good for the paint? Or can you still do it by hand? if so, how and where to go? I would think it’s impossible to wash by hand let alone wax/seal anything in a MN winter - short of going to a heated garage WITH wash capabilities, but that would require a lot of time to let the cad adj to temp and going back out into -20 below, ehew. I’m not aware of how people do this. There is a winter prep article at this site but it doesn’t really get into the specifics especially a MN winter, it’s not like it will be 35-40 degrees, it gets friggin cold. You should do a full detail twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before the winter sets in. Wash, clay polish and seal. You might want to use something like Collinite for your Fall LSP. It offers great durability to help you through the harsh winter months. To maintain during the winter, go to a coin opperated pressure wash, but only use the pressure washer to knock off the excess crud and then go home and do an ONR wash. You can do this in your garage. Or you can do it in your driveway. I have done it in 30* weather.

Thanks for any assistance

I hope this helps.

 

[agstacker]

You should do a full detail twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before the winter sets in. Wash, clay polish and seal. You might want to use something like Collinite for your Fall LSP. It offers great durability to help you through the harsh winter months. To maintain during the winter, go to a coin opperated pressure wash, but only use the pressure washer to knock off the excess crud and then go home and do an ONR wash. You can do this in your garage. Or you can do it in your driveway. I have done it in 30* weather.

This sounds good but what do you do for removing salt and sand from the undercarriage of the car?

 

[bmw5541]

You should do a full detail twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before the winter sets in. Wash, clay polish and seal. You might want to use something like Collinite for your Fall LSP. It offers great durability to help you through the harsh winter months. To maintain during the winter, go to a coin opperated pressure wash, but only use the pressure washer to knock off the excess crud and then go home and do an ONR wash. You can do this in your garage. Or you can do it in your driveway. I have done it in 30* weather.

This sounds good but what do you do for removing salt and sand from the undercarriage of the car?

It really depends on your set up. Do you have a shop, garage or just a driveway? If you just have a driveway to work in, do it at the coin opperated pressure washer. Reach the wand under the car and rince away. You just have to make due with what you have.

 

[BobbyG]

To maintain during the winter, go to a coin opperated pressure wash, but only use the pressure washer to knock off the excess crud and then go home and do an ONR wash. You can do this in your garage. Or you can do it in your driveway. I have done it in 30* weather.

I would still take it to the car wash and use the pressure washer to clean the undercarriage the best I can then wash the worst off there.

This sounds reasonable but I think something that could make it more tolerable in cold climates is to mix the solution in hot water. This will not only keep your hands warmer it'll also aid in dissolving contaminates and warming the surface of the vehicle making it easier to dry afterwards..

 

[bmw5541]

I would still take it to the car wash and use the pressure washer to clean the undercarriage the best I can then wash the worst off there.

This sounds reasonable but I think something that could make it more tolerable in cold climates is to mix the solution in hot water. This will not only keep your hands warmer it'll also aid in dissolving contaminates and warming the surface of the vehicle making it easier to dry afterwards..

Good point. During the colder weather, I use warm water with ONR. It does help!!

 

[M+O]

For a new guy you do like to type, good for you!!

Congratulations on the new car and Welcome to Autogeek!

I'm glad you decided to take care of your own car! As I've been saying for the last 40 years; If you want it done right do it yourself! rops:

As you begin to detail you'll build knowledge based on your learnings and personal experience.

1. A through washing and claying was correct and needed according to your post. If you want to save yourself some money dissolve 2 ounces of your liquid car wash in 32 ounces of water and pour "it" into your favorite spray bottle. This works just as good but about 1/10 the cost. Interesting, thanks for the tip!

Claying should be done twice annually, more often if airborne contaminates come in contact with the paint. So.... if the prep is done correctly (wash, clay, sealed) then regular washes, a good sealant and wax will negate the need to clay more often?

White is a difficult color so determine if any paint defects such as swirls are present. Claying by itself will impart some minor defects but can be easily polished out. I'm going to check this tomorrow with good lights. odds are there will be some defects, we'll see. If so I "should" think about the polishing step? If so, do I need to get a PC DA, probably helps?

Wolfgang Swirl Remover and Menzerna PO106FA are two polishes I'd recommend.

2. Personally speaking you're right on the money here. I think it's important to use a sealer and the two you mention are right at the top of the list. One other I'd like to recommend is DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant.

While sealants are tough and provide long lasting protection I always add a layer of quality wax as added protection.

3. The majority of sealants require approximately 8 to 12 hours to completely cure and should not come in contact with any moisture or condensation, kept overnight in the garage is best!

Waxing the next day is preferable but not mandatory. The surface should be clean and free of dust, yes. Got it :xyxthumbs:

4. Yes. Drying a car with a microfiber towel and some detail spray is a great idea as it removes water and any dust that might be suspended in the droplets waiting to form water spots.

5. Yes, I've been using them for years.

6. Be careful with steel wool as it will scratch. I like to use a product that's made for polishing metal with a soft towel. These products contain chemicals designed for cleaning, polishing, and protecting metal surfaces.

7. A through cleaning and detail if paramount to keep your cars finish in tip top shape.

The winters in New England are some of the worst. If I can't do it at home I'll mix up some car wash and hot water in a 5 gallon bucket and head for the nearest manual car wash.

I like to use the pressure wand to soak down the surface and blast away anything that's loose. Once this is done then I'll use the soapy solution and a Microfiber sponge to wash the vehicle much like I'd do during the warmer months and rinse throughly.

I pull the car in the garage and leave it in there until it warms up then I'll spend a couple of hours with some detail spray and add a fresh coat of wax. Keep in mind that I'm trying to prevent damage to the paint and nothing more.

Could I give it a complete detail? Yes, and I have but following a regimented cleaning and washing during winter saves allot of wear and tear on the finish. I hear ya, and I don't know what NE winters are like, but again here in MN it gets COLD 10, 0, -10, -20 degrees => air temp not wind chill, there is no warming up I think Jan/Feb there won't be a lot of washing

I hope this helps. Yes it does thank you!

Obviously this isn't its true white, it was dusk but shows some detail.

 

[M+O]

I hope this helps.

Thanks Barry. Your comments are common sense and logical. It helps, thanks.:xyxthumbs:

 

[M+O]

I would still take it to the car wash and use the pressure washer to clean the undercarriage the best I can then wash the worst off there.

This sounds reasonable but I think something that could make it more tolerable in cold climates is to mix the solution in hot water. This will not only keep your hands warmer it'll also aid in dissolving contaminates and warming the surface of the vehicle making it easier to dry afterwards..

Right, what are the things to keep in mind/tips with the power washers - e.g. don't get too close etc.. Are the touchless ones a no no or are fine?

 

[BobbyG]

Right, what are the things to keep in mind/tips with the power washers - e.g. don't get too close etc.. Are the touchless ones a no no or are fine?

Winter here in the North East is tough on vehicles, especially the paint. Grit, grime and anything else for that matter becomes embedded in the paint and all of this will scratch the finish if you let it.

The goal here is to use high pressure water to loosen / dissolve dirt, salt, chemicals, and debris before you start washing. I generally keep the tip of the wand 18" or so from the finish and have never had a problem.

Touch-less car washes are just that, they use high pressure water and soaps to clean your vehicle and no brushes or handing strips to damage the finish.

 

[M+O]

Thanks everyone for chiming in with your thoughts.

As for my sealing/waxing step, are there any tips for applying on a white car => it was really hard to see where I had applied and or missed, I mean really hard (at least NXT)?

Of the products discussed earlier (all being equal) are there ones that better show the "haze" on a white vehicle better? Not a biggie mind you, just curious.

Also, I used this product
Turtle Wax/64 oz. super clean high gloss shine ICE car wash (T-472) | Wash | AutoZone.com
to wash with (before much of my research) and was wondering if this is capable of removing wax. I have read that if you increase the ratio (w/ some products) it will have enough ooomph to remove whatever you already have on to prep it for a new seal/wax application? If not, any recommendations?