[*]Need advice on which pads to get and would prefer an all in one if possible
If you get the G9 then get either Griot's BOSS pads or the 6" Buff & Shine Uro-Tech. I actually like the Uro-Tec pads because while they are a tick thicker than the BOSS, THINPRO and Meguiar's foam discs, (all THIN foam pads), the Griot's has tons of power and has no problem rotating these pads.
The extra thickness of the Buff and Shine Uro-Tec pads offrs a little more "cushion" and also move the backing plate a little further away from the paint and this is good for anyone new to machine polishing.
Here's my review for the new G9. For this I used an old 2-door Chevy.
Review: Griot's G9 - 9mm Orbit Stroke Random Orbital Polisher by Mike Phillips
And here's my review for the Buff & Shine pads.
NEW! - Buff and Shine Uro-Tec Foam Pad System for all long throw orbital polishers!
Here's my review of the BOSS 15 and 21 back in 2015 when they were introduced and I have a section on the BOSS pads in it.
Griot's Garage NEW BOSS Paint Polishing System
BOSS Buffing Pads
The pad system for the BOSS long orbit stroke orbital polishers is simple and straightforward and the color coding is instinctive relative to the majority of color codes used in the buffing pad market.
The pads come in both 5.5" for use with the 5" backing plate and 6.5" pads for use with the 6" backing plates.
The Buffing Pad Color Codes
In order from the most aggressive to the least aggressive
Black Micro Fiber Pad - The fastest and most aggressive pad option for use with the BOSS correcting and perfecting creams for removing serious paint defects while still finishing out to an acceptable finish.
White Foam Fast Correcting Pad - This is a firm euro-foam cutting pad that offers fast defect removal using either other the correction creams to remove moderate to severe paint defects.
Orange Foam Correcting Pad - This is a firm euro-foam cutting pad for use with the correcting creams to remove light to moderate paint defects.
Yellow Foam Perfecting Pad - This is a multi-purpose foam polishing pad to use with the perfecting cream to remove light defects and impart a flawless finish.
Black Foam Finishing Pad - This is an ultra soft foam finishing pad for use with the BOSS Finishing Sealant to finish and protect all paint systems.
[*]Need advice on which pads to get and would prefer an all in one if possible
[*]Need for the paint and also the carbon fiber roof / panels. Think I’ve heard you recommend Lake Country?
See above recommendations for pads. You "hope" you only need foam "polishing" but too often you end up needing something more aggressive, even for shallow swirls and scratches, depends on how hard the paint is plus other things like,
- Abrasive technology
- Tool
- Technique
Also, treat carbon fiber surfaces using the
least aggressive process approach.
Good stuff.
As a personal "Best Practice"
I no longer use any brand of Iron Remover on anodized aluminum trim, which is commonly used around window. It's a STUPID type of trim to use on cars because once it fades or stains "we" the human race cannot fix it.
If trim were like old cars had, stainless steel, nickel or aluminum, then WE could fix it via polishing. Anodized trim oxidizes and stains. With black anodized trim, like I see on BMW and Mercedes-Benz, when it fades or oxidized, you see a "rainbow" coloring on the trim and/or just a dull flat appearance.
When the aluminum looking anodized trim, it stains and spots. I've fixed it using BLACKFIRE One Step and a microfiber cutting pad on the RUPES Nano but that's about a $700.00 investment to polish out really thin "trim". But at least I've found a way to fix it. But being pro-active in my profession - I just don't do things that cause problems. We can no longer wash cars outside of Autogeek any longer so it's less of a problem than in the past.
[*]Gtechniq Serum Light (anything better than this to make color pop with good hydro properties?) Also, heard good things about Gyeon Q2?
[*]GYEON Q2M Prep
I like the GTechniq Serum Light or any coating by GTechniq, they are what I call on this forum,
An established brand
GYEON is also an established brand and they make great products. You can't go wrong with either. For me? I like a coating that makes the paint feel slippery and slick. I won't use paint coatings that make the paint feel rubbery, and that's what most do.
I don't remember how either of the above brands leave the paint feeling but I don't remember it being on the rubbery side of the "Paint Feeling Spectrum".
For what I call "Paint Care", that is anytime I'm working on car paint, I like the Forrest Green Edgeless microfiber towels but we carry this same "type" of towel in a number of different colors, so it's more about the type of towel than the color.
If you look at a lot of my write-ups from the last year, I ALWAYS include pictures of the "things" I use and you'll see a LOT of the Forrest Green Edgeless Towesl in my articles. I don't fake it or do mock up, so if it's in a picture it's the real-deal.
From this recent article,
Review: Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating - 1947 Dodge Panel Delivery Streetrod
If you scroll down, you'll see I included shots of everything I used including a
PILE OF TOWELS - this is how many towels I used throughout this product. When I share a picture of pads and towels I'm
TELEGRAPHING to my reader a message. That message is, you need more than one pad and one towel to buff out a car.
Here's everything I used...
NSP 150 with LC Force Hybrid Orange Foam Cutting Pads for removing sanding marks and the front clip.
NSP 95 with the LC Force Hybrid Orange Foam Cutting Pads for removing holograms where there were no sanding marks.
NSP 45 with the LC Force Hybrid Black Foam Finishing Pads - I used these for a second step polishing step anywhere I used the foam cutting pads to ensure no pad haze.
Distilled water and Dr. Beasley's 1201 Paint Coating.
Tools used
I find myself using these three tools more and more as my normal tool selection for most car detailing projects.
FLEX XC 3401 VRG - The original BEAST - Why? Because it's the fastest tool for me to remove paint defects without inducing holograms and consistently putting out pro quality results.
FLEX PiXiE - I love how this too is able to maintain pad rotation when using the 12mm drive unit.
RUPES Nano Long Neck - I use this in rotary mode for doing edge work.
Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Towels
I like these towels for 2 reasons
1: They have a flat weave, which means they are less likely to become contaminated as compared to a large fluffy weave.
2: They work great.
Your choice for towels shouldn't be any more complicated than these two reasons.
Typing for the future....
For everyone reading this into the future - pay attention to my write-ups, I always include pictures like you see above. I show the tools, the pads, the products and the towels. This is what it takes to do a job right the first time. It's not sly marketing on my part - it's an honest attempt to HELP YOU figure this stuff out.
As for the green towels I like, I heard last week while
testing a new coating, see my review to be launched tonight I think), that
we have a ton of these,
Cobra Storm Gray Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloth - 12 Pack - always get a 12 pack, it's a better value and you can never have enough good un-contaminated towels.
I do like the Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay, it is actually an ULTRA fine grade clay and this makes claying as safe as you can get, that and working on a meticullousy clean car and using plenty of clay lube.
Step 2: Inspect the paint with your sense of touch and if you feel tiny bumps - use detailing clay and clay the paint.
There was light contamination on the paint. I used the Wolfgang Clay and Clay Lube to remove the contamination.
When you first start out, you'll often feel the clay drag a little. This is because the contaminants are still bonded to the paint.
As you continue to rub the clay patty over the paint, the clay removes the contaminants and then you'll feel the clay begin to glide effortlessly over the paint. This is the sign you're ready to stop claying and wipe the clay lube residue off the paint.
Remove the clay lube residue using a clean, inspected microfiber towel.
Be sure anytime you're going to use any microfiber towel on your car's paint you first inspect your microfiber towels by looking at them and also feeling them for contaminants. Once your towels have passed your inspection they are safe to use.
And I do like the thicker Cobra 530 in 16" by 16 size. I like the thicker nap on one side for when wiping any liquids over the surface of paint be it for removing clay lube or using a waterless wash.
[*]
Cobra Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt 4-Pack (add to the collection unless you recommend something else)
I include those wash mitts here for PREP WASHES
Must Have Microfiber! At least my opinion 
But I also believe in and use this approach for coated cars. You can substitute the GREY towels I shared above for the green towels.
How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach
[*]Ceramics for rims and glass worth getting?
Sorry to say, I've only used and studied one wheel coating and it did impress me - GTechniq C5 Wheel Armor.
For glass I use and really like the Pinnacle Black Label All Surface Coating
Coated under 15 minutes using PBL Surface Coating
I like the PBL paint coating and surface coating combo. Works for me. Leaves the paint feeling slippery. Easy to use. Hard to screw up.
Most glass coatings I've used may bead water really well but they make the wiper blades chatter, not so with the Surface Coating. Plus NOTHING is going to last on the windshield due to the micro-abrasive of the wipers plus abrasive debris that gets on the windshield. So instead of looking for a coating that lasts for freaking years, I look for something that works great AND is fast and easy to re-apply. That's the real secret to a great glass coating - fast and easy to RE-APPLY becaue it's going to wear off. If the re-application is a freaking "process" - yeah... most people wont' do it. Fast and easy is what the average Joe likes including me.
For leather interiors - again you want 2 things, first you NEED To be PRO-ACTIVE and clean your car's interior often. The interior of my car and my wife's car are IMMACULATE. Not because of me, but because of my wife. Each time we detail our cars, wash them or whatever), she does the interior and she never lets them get out of control. For the leather in my Lexus, she uses the PBL Leather & Vinyl Coating. It's take a guess.... fast and easy. Nothing on the driver's seat is going to LAST due to micro-abrasion each time you get into and out of the seat. So instead of looking for something that says it lasts forever, look for something you LIKE and use it often.
From the year 2010 and I go back to preaching and teaching this to at least the 1980's - I just don't have an article for it that is this old.
Find something you like and use it often
Thanks again Mike and all!
-FJ
Hope the above helps. I would challenge you or anyone to go to ANY other social media platform and ask the same question and compare the help in the way of actual typed-out information PLUS links, pictures and videos that you get there to what you just got here.
Some say forums are dead? Maybe so, but at least a well-run forum is efficient, friendly and helpful.
