New Dark Navy Blue Car - which polish(s) ?

mdgrwl

mdgrwl

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Hey Gang - I just got a new dark navy blue Audi S5 and wanted to pick up some polish(s).

Polish is somewhat new to me as all my cars were light color, and I mostly just used cleaners like Klasse AIO.

I know in a about 6 months I'll start to see swirls. Is there any one step polish that can remove minor swirls but still leave behind a great gloss before my LSP?

One step:

Menzerna PF 2500 - PowerFinish PO203 - looks to be a one step polish but not sure how effective it will be at "double duty".

Or should I go with a 2 step process like:

Menzerna SI 1500 - Super Intensive Polish PO83
+
Menzerna SF 4500 - SuperFinish PO85RD

Or are these overkill being they are diminishing abrasives, and being its a new car (that will eventually see swirls) should I go with a non-diminishing abrasive like Meguiars M205 ??

Thanks in advance!
 
For a one-step, I have been very happy with Sonax Perfect Finish. It is a more versatile product that seems to finish well on even the softest paints. It has the ability to remove light to moderate defects on most paints, but as always, YMMV.

Some people have had luck with FG400 on a white polishing pad as a one-step. Haven't tried it myself, but Mike Phillips had a write-up on this.

For a very light finishing polish, consider Carpro reflect. It is diminishing like the SF4000 and SF4500 products, but has a shorter work time.

In the right hands, both DAT and SMAT products should produce equally good results. However, I have found that DAT products will produce more consistent results for most people. SMAT products require a very strong understanding of theory to sometimes achieve the same results.
 
Thanks. I'm not familiar with DAT or SMAT products though... can you elaborate and give some brief product examples?
 
Good read. Looks like a good combo is M105 & M205. M105 only if the paint is in pretty bad shape, M205 can get away with minor swirls & scratches.

Any idea how these compare to say Wolfgang's duo (trio) now? Are those SMAT or DAT?
 
Wolfgang stuff is Menzerna technology (afaik), so probably DAT.

DAT and SMAT do not dictate the abrasive levels - they're just different ways to skin the cat.

I think you'll be well-served by the 3 products I mentioned previously. M105 and M205 are still good products, but I think there are more modern products available today.

M205 is still a fairly versatile product, but I think M105 is a bit obsolete compared to M101 and FG400 (slightly less cut, but longer work time and better finish).
 
How do you know when a diminishing polish is fully "diminished"? Is there a certain number of passes or does it let you know somehow? Sorry... never used the stuff.
 
After reading up on the Sonax & FG400, they both seem like the same things... or am I missing something there?

Also how does something like Klasse AIO fit into the process (if at all)? Use it after FG400 for a higher gloss finish, or no need and go right into the LSP?
 
Should have stayed with the LX, LOL.

No need for the Klasse AIO if you're polishing to remove swirls. That's basically a paint cleaner with some fillers to hide the swirls. In my experience, I don't know that it does any real correction, more like covering up. It does great at that, but I doubt that's what you're wanting.

What buffer are you using? That may determine what products are recommended. I'd also do a little digging to see if you can determine what type of paint is on the Audi. If it's one of the newer hard ceramic clear types, you might need more aggressive than you think to correct.
 
mdgrwl said:
How do you know when a diminishing polish is fully "diminished"? Is there a certain number of passes or does it let you know somehow? Sorry... never used the stuff.
Click to expand...

Yes, you have to work the product until it completely breaks down for the paint will be hazy. Usually 6 section passes.

I would go with FG400 and SF4000 or SF4500.

Since it's a new car you probably won't have to compound the entire car...or maybe at all. You could get away with just SF4000 to remove all the light swirls and scratches since its new. FG400 is good to have for deeper imperfections and if you need to compound later on, I had great results using it with a polishing pad as a one step on neglected vehicles (5+ years old). It cuts extremely fast and finishes out nice, but I would definitely follow it up with SF4000 or SF4500 to bring out more gloss in the paint.
 
aim4squirrels said:
Should have stayed with the LX, LOL.

No need for the Klasse AIO if you're polishing to remove swirls. That's basically a paint cleaner with some fillers to hide the swirls. In my experience, I don't know that it does any real correction, more like covering up. It does great at that, but I doubt that's what you're wanting.

What buffer are you using? That may determine what products are recommended. I'd also do a little digging to see if you can determine what type of paint is on the Audi. If it's one of the newer hard ceramic clear types, you might need more aggressive than you think to correct.
Click to expand...

Ah, the LX turned into a nightmare but that's a whole different story. Right now I have a DA polisher with some pads... kinda an open book as far as product & pad recommendations right now. As far as the hardness of the paint, I'm not sure how to tell how "hard" it is. Its a 14' Audi S5... Dark Navy Blue Pearl...


Scott@IncrediblyDetailed said:
Yes, you have to work the product until it completely breaks down for the paint will be hazy. Usually 6 section passes.

I would go with FG400 and SF4000 or SF4500.

Since it's a new car you probably won't have to compound the entire car...or maybe at all. You could get away with just SF4000 to remove all the light swirls and scratches since its new. FG400 is good to have for deeper imperfections and if you need to compound later on, I had great results using it with a polishing pad as a one step on neglected vehicles (5+ years old). It cuts extremely fast and finishes out nice, but I would definitely follow it up with SF4000 or SF4500 to bring out more gloss in the paint.
Click to expand...

Thanks :) The Menzerna lineup always stood out to me as top notch. The FG400 / SF4500 seems like a perfect 2 step process, but would SF4500 have enough cut for correction?

So far I've been considering Menz PF2500, Megs M205, Sonax PF 4/6 as a ONE step process.
 
As the other poster mentioned, the product will turn nearly clear once broken down.

The number of passes it takes to breakdown will vary by pressure, polisher and pad used.

For instance, certain polishes will breakdown quicker on a 3401 than the Rupes. If you're using a normal DA, then the Sonax PF may not be a good choice since it was originally designed for a rotary.

Edit -- FG400 is a compound but is very pad dependent. You may be able to use the FG400 as a medium polish with the right pads. See how Mike did it here:


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nzerna-fg-400-one-step-show-car-makeover.html
 
mdgrwl said:
Ah, the LX turned into a nightmare but that's a whole different story. Right now I have a DA polisher with some pads... kinda an open book as far as product & pad recommendations right now. As far as the hardness of the paint, I'm not sure how to tell how "hard" it is. Its a 14' Audi S5... Dark Navy Blue Pearl...




Thanks :) The Menzerna lineup always stood out to me as top notch. The FG400 / SF4500 seems like a perfect 2 step process, but would SF4500 have enough cut for correction?

So far I've been considering Menz PF2500, Megs M205, Sonax PF 4/6 as a ONE step process.
Click to expand...

I've never used 4500 so I can't comment, but 4000 is great. I use SF4000 on one-steps for new cars and my own just to remove light swirls and scratches. FG400 on neglected cars with polishing pad. My two step is usually FG400 with a cutting pad then followed by SF4000.

Flex 3401 + Polishing Pad + FG400:

2004-Ford-F250-Before-Hood-50-50-Test-Spot.jpg


2004-Ford-F250-Before-Hood-50-50.jpg


2004-Ford-F250-Before-Door-Swirls.jpg


2004-Ford-F250-After-Door-Swirls.jpg


2006-Ford-F150-During-Fender5050-1.jpg


2006-Ford-F150-During-Fender5050-4.jpg


2006-Ford-F150-During-Fender5050-8.jpg


2006-Ford-F150-During-Fender5050-7.jpg


2006-Ford-F150-During-Fender5050-9.jpg
 
I've used SF4500 many times. It's a nice gloss booster, but it wouldn't fix the most shallow of defects for me. I've tried. You may get more cut out of it on a polishing pad, I've only used it on a finishing/jeweling pad. SF4000 is likely much more universal.
 
Thanks Scott - great post.

So not knowing exactly how hard my paint is, and being I found a decent deal for $20 bucks a bottle, I picked up Menzerna 400, 2500 & 4000, a bunch of different pads, along with Collinite 915 as my LSP.

I'm sure 2500 & 4000 will be all I'll need in the beginning... but at $20 bucks a bottle, why not get the FG400 as well? :)
 
Lake Country's pads can get a bit confusing... I've used CCS pads before, but are the Hydrotech pads better? I like that there are only 3 pads instead of 6
 
Hydrotech pads are excellent. Never been a big fan of CCS.

All you need are the Cyan and Tangerine pads.
 
mdgrwl said:
Ah, the LX turned into a nightmare but that's a whole different story. Right now I have a DA polisher with some pads... kinda an open book as far as product & pad recommendations right now. As far as the hardness of the paint, I'm not sure how to tell how "hard" it is. Its a 14' Audi S5... Dark Navy Blue Pearl...




Thanks :) The Menzerna lineup always stood out to me as top notch. The FG400 / SF4500 seems like a perfect 2 step process, but would SF4500 have enough cut for correction?

So far I've been considering Menz PF2500, Megs M205, Sonax PF 4/6 as a ONE step process.
Click to expand...

I have Menzerna's entire line and the three I reach for 90% of the time are FG400, PF2500, and SF4000. Those 3 are all you would really ever need for personal use.
 
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