I remember reading that the Wolfgang twins were actually very nearly the same as two Menzerna products.
TSR similar to Super Intensive Polish
FG is similar to 106FA
The Total Swirl Remover is the more abrasive and the Finishing Glaze is used to remove micro marring from the TSR, correct?
If the TSR leaves micro-marring, often times it doesn't but if it does then yes, follow with the FG.
The pads go from most abrasive to least as: cyan, tangerine, red, correct? Depending on swirls, I could use different combinations on a test area until I find the least abrasive method that will remove the swirls?
Correct to all questions.
Does the Finishing Glaze have any fillers or can I go straight to a sealant afterwards?
Lots of confusion and misinformation over the word fillers and lubricating agents, some people would say there the same but here's the deal... if you're trying to make paint look beautiful, (and that is the goal isn't make the paint look good?), if you remove the "lubricating agents", then the abrasives will abrade and scour the paint. Think about using sand and water to make paint look good... probably wouldn't work would it?
All abrasive products must use "something" to lubricate the surface while the abrasives abrade or take little bites out of the paint. Water-based doesn't mean there are zero lubricating agents as water by itself is not perfect, anyone that thinks it is can replace the oil in their car's engine with water and see how long that lasts.
As for removing the residual lubricating agents after using ANY product, that's a discussion that is brought up all the time, here's the short version, if the manufacture of the wax, sealant or coating states the surface must be chemically stripped naked before using their product in order for their product to work then follow the manufactures directs.
If not then it will come down to your research on the topic or personal preference. To helps shed some light on this topic I just wrote and posted a brand new article. Have a read...
Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding
Here's a brand new related article...
How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results
I use Zaino AIO-Z6-ZCS-Z8 as my last step on all my vehicles and the maintain with Z8 and OCW. I plan on using ZAIO on the red pad.
Thanks.
I think Sal states that his sealants need the paint to be chemically stripped in order for the sealants to bond, check his website or contact Zaino if you're not sure and then plan your approach accordingly.
I just put some UC through some pretty tough paces (also Griot's DA). I was left desiring something more aggressive.
UC is pretty aggressive, I know some that say it's as aggressive as M105 and Meguiar's states it's less aggressive, either way, it is "close". So if UC isn't getting the job done you can step down to M105 change something else in the process, perhaps pad, perhaps technique, perhaps tool.
Here's an article on the aggressiveness of SMAT products I wrote a year or so ago... I'm updating it for 2011...
The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!
Super Micro Abrasive Technology = SMAT
From left to right, the most aggressive to the least aggressive SMAT products
From the most to the least aggressive...
M105 Ultra-Cut Compound/M95 Speed Cut Compound = The same in abrading power
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX 2.0
M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
SwirlX
M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
The rest of the article is worthy of ready... the above is just an excerpt...
I just purchased the M105. What kind of learning curve is there?
Some people have a difficult time with it, some people don't. So some factors that seem to influence a person's experience is temperature and humidity, other factors are going to be technique. One of the most influencing factors is cleanliness, that is cleaning your pad often to remove spent product and removed paint. People ask me how often is often and in a perfect world you would clean your pad after each application otherwise you will be be adding fresh product to the paint on your pad that the previous application of the product removed off the car.
If you think about it... this would be true for ANY product that abrades the surface.
So clean your pad often, always wipe spent product off the surface. Prime clean DRY pads before starting, that is apply some of the product you're using to the entire face of the pad, this does two things,
- Ensures 100% of the working face of the pad is working for you from the very moment you turn the power on.
See this thread for some tips and techniques for working with M105
Problem working with Meguiar's M105 Ultra Compound?
Regarding a 1988 truck, if it has not been previously well-maintained, TSR and FG might not be aggressive enough. I also did not find the cyan HT pads very durable. Depending on the level of correction, you may need more than two. With just TSR, you should probably be OK with in-between cleaning.
Agree. Also, anytime paint is neglected enough to need correction of below surface defects it's usually neglected enough to need to be clayed, so be sure you check to see if the paint needs claying and if it does clay before doing any machine correction work.
I'm pretty sure the Wolfgang Twins are very similar to Power Finish(PO 203) and Super Finish(PO 106 FA)
Correct.
What shape is the paint in? You will not likely know until you do a test spot which you can quickly do...just wash off a section and do it. You are not committed to finish it.
Doing a Test Spot is probably the most important part of any detailing project when you have not previously worked on the project car.
I recommend running a single tape line down a horizontal panel so your eyes can clearly see any visual changes to the side you're testing on to give you feedback as to whether your process is working or not and if it is, to the degree it's working.
Like this,
Usually, if you're have a good process and you're using good technique, then you'll at a minimum remove all the shallow below surface defects, (swirls, scratches water spot etchings), and leave behind the RIDS
Don't focus on removing on all the RIDS unless this is a show car and you own it or the owner understands the risks and will accept them and pay your for your time, materials and labor to completely remove them.
Here's an article on RIDS if you're not sure what the acronym means...
RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...
