New Infiniti g37xS with DISO and need help deciding what to use here!

Marc Hufnagel

Marc Hufnagel

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Just picked this up a couple of weeks ago, complete with some RIDS and a light to moderate case of DISO, clearcoat vibrant red. It had been run through the dealer tunnel wash a few times while it sat on the lot.

I believe it has the clearcoat that is 'self-healing' as it has a sticker under the hood about special repair procedures:

372e0f20.jpg



I have these to use:

DSC00829_zps61cf6eeb.jpg



..and these to apply them with:

DSC00831_zps93e40153.jpg

DSC00830_zpsc4636d8b.jpg


and besides the MF cutting and finishing pads in the kit above, I have these (that is 2 white, one got washed with a bunch of yellow MF):

DSC00832_zps133d90da.jpg



Now, I've not used the M105/205 before, but a little of the MF kit and the bottom 3 foams with DG501/105.


How would you proceed? I tried to get some swirls and rids on camera with a halogen shop light but they were being shy so trust me on light-moderate. Sunlight REALLY brings them out being a clearcoat red.
 
Hellspawn said:
Just picked this up a couple of weeks ago, complete with some RIDS and a light to moderate case of DISO, clearcoat vibrant red. It had been run through the dealer tunnel wash a few times while it sat on the lot.

I believe it has the clearcoat that is 'self-healing'[/B ]as it has a sticker under the hood about special repair procedures:
Click to expand...


What does the sticker say? Maybe take a picture or type it out...


Hellspawn said:
How would you proceed? I tried to get some swirls and rids on camera with a halogen shop light but they were being shy so trust me on light-moderate. Sunlight REALLY brings them out being a clearcoat red.
Click to expand...



If it were me, I would try doing a Test Spot first using the Ultimate Polish first and then the M205 with a white polishing pad on either the Flex 3401 or the Griot's Garage DA Polisher.

Then wipe the excess residue off and inspect and if you want to really see what's going on chemically strip the test spot section and then inspect using bright overhead sunlight or a Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light.

The above combos should be able to remove the defects so check for this first. Then check for overall finish quality. You might have to follow-up with a black finishing pad to really get the clear coat clear and defect free.


I'm subscribing to this thread as I really want to see how you do.


:)
 
(never mind. Mike understood what you were asking)

PS I though Infiniti discontinued the "scratch shield" self-healing paint in 2010.
 
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Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
What does the sticker say? Maybe take a picture or type it out...






If it were me, I would try doing a Test Spot first using the Ultimate Polish first and then the M205 with a white polishing pad on either the Flex 3401 or the Griot's Garage DA Polisher.

Then wipe the excess residue off and inspect and if you want to really see what's going on chemically strip the test spot section and then inspect using bright overhead sunlight or a Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light.

The above combos should be able to remove the defects so check for this first. Then check for overall finish quality. You might have to follow-up with a black finishing pad to really get the clear coat clear and defect free.


I'm subscribing to this thread as I really want to see how you do.


:)
Click to expand...

Would you recommend the UP then the 205 or 205 IF the UP doesn't resolve ? Also white for both products and any thoughts on speeds ?

I'll get a picture of that sticker later today for the thread! Looking forward to the Evansville meet on the 16th!
 
SR99 said:
(never mind. Mike understood what you were asking)

PS I though Infiniti discontinued the "scratch shield" self-healing paint in 2010.
Click to expand...

I can say that my '10 doesnt have the self heal stuff since ultimate polish with a white LC pad takes care of a surprising amount of defects. Soft paint for sure so you wont need anything too harsh to get rid of the DISO.
 
Hellspawn said:
Would you recommend the UP then the 205 or 205 IF the UP doesn't resolve ?
Click to expand...

Yes. I don't think it will take much to remove the defects and I "think" the UP is a tick less aggressive than the M205.


Hellspawn said:
Also white for both products and any thoughts on speeds ?
Click to expand...

5 to 6 on the Flex 3401. It's easier to control for cutting at higher speeds versus slower speeds. You shouldn't have to apply much downward pressure. Apply "some downward pressure", just not much.

For the Griot's, 5-6, as long as your pads are rotating under pressure...

I show the pattern to make here,

How To Use The Flex 3401


Here I've turned the polisher on and spread my working product evenly over the entire surface I'm going to work.
Flex3401BeforeAfter005.jpg



I work the section using overlapping passes and a crosshatch pattern...
Flex3401BeforeAfter006.jpg





Hellspawn said:
I'll get a picture of that sticker later today for the thread! Looking forward to the Evansville meet on the 16th!
Click to expand...

Cool. I promise you'll be glad you came.

:xyxthumbs:
 
SR99 said:
(never mind. Mike understood what you were asking)

PS I though Infiniti discontinued the "scratch shield" self-healing paint in 2010.
Click to expand...

That's what it is called, they apparently brought it back in '11.. For what this is worth:

 
Yes, "self-healing" paint is back in 2011. Menzerna PF 2500 with Flex and white pad work perfect on my 2011 g37 coupe. Mine was brand new in very good condition so this combo is what I needed. You can try this and see how works for You.
 
Mike, I misspoke a bit:

508A6032-FEF8-4C9A-AF7C-8F0EBFAF157B-2965-000004F025C73F2C_zpsce0fce55.jpg


Oddly enough rubbing a spot on the clear with yourdry fingertip will put some little tiny lines in it.

Still you would be trying the UP/white first, then the 205/white second? The clear seems pretty soft to be actually.
 
5-6 on a GG 6" corresponds to what on a Flex 3401? I would think the same but I'm probably wrong on that :)
 
slawek65 said:
Yes, "self-healing" paint is back in 2011. Menzerna PF 2500 with Flex and white pad work perfect on my 2011 g37 coupe.
Click to expand...


Menzerna polishes are actually a very good option for self-healing paints. All my black test panels are on the soft to medium soft side and this helps me to see exactly what's taking place by pads, tools and abrasives. Menzerna polishes all finish out really nice with any quality foam pad and good technique.


The OP has Meguiar's polishes and Meguiar's makes great polishes so I'm trying to help him with the products he already has and my advice is the same for him as it is with anyone and it's the advice I've been sharing and teaching since I got on the "Internet" (Technically the Usenet Newsgroups because discussion forum software hand NOT been invented yet), back to 1993, documented to 1994 and that is to do a TEST SPOT.

Make sure you can make one small area look good before buffing out the entire car.

More specifically, make sure you choice of products, pads, tools and "yes" technique can make one small area look GREAT before buffing out the entire car.

If you can make one small section look great you can make the rest of the car look great, it's just a matter of dividing each panel into smaller sections and then repeating the process you used for your test spot to each of the smaller section and be sure to overlap a little when finished with one section and moving onto a new section.

If a person ever runs into problems, come back here and post what you see and we'll help to see you though to success...


Test Spot - The story behind the story...



I see guys share the Test Spot Technique all the time and that's a good thing because it helps others...



:xyxthumbs:
 
Hellspawn said:
5-6 on a GG 6" corresponds to what on a Flex 3401? I would think the same but I'm probably wrong on that :)
Click to expand...


Nothing in common except the "idea" of a range of power. When you go from a free spinning tool to a forced rotation tool there's a HUGE difference.

For your Flex, use the 4-6 range for your test spot. The tool is easiest to use and control at higher speeds when holding the pad completely flat to the surface.

If you're working on very soft paint, or worse, self-healing paint, the you have to tweak your technique to match the paint.


Here's a timeless idea...

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"



To follow the above sage advice you would do your first test spot using a soft foam finishing pad with your least aggressive polish, probably the Ultimate Polish.

Then check the results. You can always substitute a more aggressive pad or product or both if your first choice of pad and product are not working effectively enough or fast enough.

Time to go out into the garage and do some testing....



:buffing:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Nothing in common except the "idea" of a range of power. When you go from a free spinning tool to a forced rotation tool there's a HUGE difference.

For your Flex, use the 4-6 range for your test spot. The tool is easiest to use and control at higher speeds when holding the pad completely flat to the surface.

If you're working on very soft paint, or worse, self-healing paint, the you have to tweak your technique to match the paint.


Here's a timeless idea...

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"



To follow the above sage advice you would do your first test spot using a soft foam finishing pad with your least aggressive polish, probably the Ultimate Polish.

Then check the results. You can always substitute a more aggressive pad or product or both if your first choice of pad and product are not working effectively enough or fast enough.

Time to go out into the garage and do some testing....



:buffing:
Click to expand...


Ok thanks. I remember the 'least aggressive' from you, years back!


I have it washed and ready to be taped tomorrow evening. I see the sticker says 'hard clear coat' so maybe they have changed from the self healing perhaps.

I'll try to update Sunday I hope!

Thanks
 
I have personally worked as a contract detailer for my local infiniti dealer and i've detailed around 50 cars with the "self healing" CC. I currently own an FX50S. Mike has given you some awesome beginner tips. All i can really add is you really dont have to be that aggressive with the polishing. Infiniti clears polisher out easier than a harder clear such as a Mercedes. Most cases for me Menzerna PF-2500 with a white LC pad got all the swirls out and for 3000 grit sanding marks i bumped up to an orange pad. For future washing just stay very gentle and smooth, they can pick up swirls pretty quick.

Happy Detailing :)
 
Andr3wilson said:
I have personally worked as a contract detailer for my local infiniti dealer and i've detailed around 50 cars with the "self healing" CC. I currently own an FX50S. Mike has given you some awesome beginner tips. All i can really add is you really dont have to be that aggressive with the polishing. Infiniti clears polisher out easier than a harder clear such as a Mercedes. Most cases for me Menzerna PF-2500 with a white LC pad got all the swirls out and for 3000 grit sanding marks i bumped up to an orange pad. For future washing just stay very gentle and smooth, they can pick up swirls pretty quick.

Happy Detailing :)
Click to expand...

thanks for the tips, looks like a trend with the tips about not needing a lot of work to get most things out and the white pads!
 
Well the white pad and UP it is laughing at , white pad and 205 better, maybe 50% reduction.

Should I go orange pad with 205 or white with 105 ? Maybe try the MF kit with the d300?
 
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Hellspawn said:
Well the white pad and UP it is laughing at , white pad and 205 better, maybe 50% reduction.

Should I go orange pad with 205 or white with 105 ? Maybe try the MF kit with the d300?
Click to expand...

Since the paint is so delicate, I would try the 205 and the orange. If that doesnt work, try the uc and orange. Last resort would be the 105. Thats just my opinion.
 
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