New MINI Cooper coming - what to do for 1st detailing?

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daggerNC

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I'm actually getting a new vehicle WOOT!! Sadly sold my restored 1966 F100 so got the OK to go with a "new" but fun ride, so MINI Cooper S Clubman it is. It will get here just before Christmas. And here is my question to the collective wisdom of these excellent forums: What's the "best" approach to a first-app on a virgin vehicle??

I do have a porter-cable DA and lots of years of amature car care. I don't have the time anymore to wash every weekend and wax every other weekend :( But, I really want to get this MINI to have the dripping wet look effect. I have in my garage a number of good/very good products I've used on my other vehicles ('66 F100, '00 Explorer, '08 Escape) and they shine like crazy, but I've never got it to that wet look. I really like the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant, it shines like crazy on my Vista Blue Escape, but not drippy wet like I've seen on other vehicles. I have a few carnubas like Pinnacle Sovereign and Griot's BoS, and Natty's Red, but still have never been 100% satisfied. Even layering carnuba over Sovereign or Duragloss - almost, but not quite... I will likely use Griot's leather and vinyl treatments on the interior (something better??).

Anyway, very excited about this new MINI and want to start it off right.

Thanks in advance,
dagger
 
Dear Dagger

I know almost nothing about proper car care, but based on fellow forum members' advice, I think you're okay to let your passion for your new ride run wild for a month or so.

I think you want a good coat of wax on your Mini's paint, and this could mean more than one application. Durable, long-lasting choices include Ultima's Paint Guard Plus and Collinite 845.

Based on your post, I assume you know much more than I do, but my suggestions are based on a shared interest in time savings and efficiency, not a show car finish.
 
After the obvious (wash, decontaminate, clay), inspect for DISO. If they threw that in for free, compound/polish as appropriate.

To get the dripping look, jewelling is a must.

As for LSPs, I was surprised at how wet my grey testbed (2011 Hyundai Sonata) looked after an ONR bath with Optimum Car Wax as a drying agent (plenty of sealant already down). The OCW really impressed me - I'm buying a gallon.
 
I've done 2 so far, although both were older. One had very hard paint, the other soft. I would strongly suggest you advise the dealer not to touch the vehicle for delivery. Only allow them to do the PDI and that's it. Wash it yourself. I would go over the vehicle after washing and drying with IronX. You will be amazed/disgusted at what comes off a brand new vehicle from being in transport. You should not need to clay after that. I would then apply CQuartz to the paint, trim, glass and especially the wheels as those cars create Monster brake dust. You might even consider doing 2 coats on the wheels and paint. (Let cure for at least an hour after removal if you do that however).
You will now have a very clean, very well protected vehicle.

BTW, Congrats on your new ride!!
 
Richy knows! Opti Coat has a learning curve so CQ is the easiest coating for a first timer.
 
yep listen to ritchy and tiger and get that bad boy sealed up
 
Hey guys - thanks for the responses already and it being Turkey Day and all! MJ - I have used Optimum Spray Wax (and ONR) and I have to agree it is a pretty amazing shine for a quick spray wax! I was looking at their Opti-Seal because of that.

Just read thru the Corey threat where he did a test of both. I take it the OC's bigger learning curve is the risk of ridging? Will two coats of CQ provide the same longevity as a single OC coat?

So Richy and Tiger and John are strongly supporting a sealant first... What then do you recommend after the CQ application? I've read some good things about Collonite products, and I'm not arguing at all but would like to better understand the preference for the CQ type of product versus a long term sealant like Collonite or maybe Wolfgang?

Other details is this will be Reef Blue which is a very dark blue - looks black in now lighting. I did not request the dealer added sealant option (of course :-)

Thanks again..
 
daggerNC said:
Hey guys - thanks for the responses already and it being Turkey Day and all! MJ - I have used Optimum Spray Wax (and ONR) and I have to agree it is a pretty amazing shine for a quick spray wax! I was looking at their Opti-Seal because of that.

Just read thru the Corey threat where he did a test of both. I take it the OC's bigger learning curve is the risk of ridging? Will two coats of CQ provide the same longevity as a single OC coat?

So Richy and Tiger and John are strongly supporting a sealant first... What then do you recommend after the CQ application? I've read some good things about Collonite products, and I'm not arguing at all but would like to better understand the preference for the CQ type of product versus a long term sealant like Collonite or maybe Wolfgang?

Other details is this will be Reef Blue which is a very dark blue - looks black in now lighting. I did not request the dealer added sealant option (of course :-)

Thanks again..
Click to expand...

Just a regular day for Canadians, LOL. I would not simply classify the CQ as a sealant. I put both CQ and the original OC (now called OG) on my old FX35 which my neighbour now owns. The CQ is holding up every bit as well and looks just as great, a year and several months later. It is slightly slower to release the water, but still releases the same amount as the OC does. You need nothing on top of it. Maybe some ReLoad to keep it nice and slick. ReLoad has some amazing sheeting properties all on its own. Do as I suggested and top wiht ReLoad and you will be seriously happy with the protection and look!!
Collinite is a damned good product, I used to use DG 105 topped with 845 and still do for clients who don't want to pay the extra for a nano coat. It just won't last as long, that's all.

[video=youtube_share;Bbxo3HiRfvw"]New carpro ReLoad quick glass coating - YouTube[/video]
 
Dear Michael

mjlinane said:
After the obvious (wash, decontaminate, clay), inspect for DISO. If they threw that in for free, compound/polish as appropriate.
Click to expand...

What's DISO?

I thought claying was the decontamination step. If it isn't, how does one decontaminate?
 
Jaddie said:
Dear Michael



What's DISO?

I thought claying was the decontamination step. If it isn't, how does one decontaminate?
Click to expand...

It's an acronym for
Dealer
Installed
Swirl
Option

It's the free, but unwanted, option they throw in when untrained monkeys touch your paint.
 
It is Mike P's term: Dealer Installed Swirl Option (receiving the car pre-swirled or hologrammed).

Claying removes particles attached to the paint. Decontamination removes particles embedded in the paint (generally, iron). Products like IronX, Valugard, FinishKare Decon System, et al. do that. Claying (generally) follows.
 
Dear Mike & dagger

This untrained monkey appreciates your responses. One day I'll graduate to the level of semi-trained monkey.
 
Jaddie said:
Dear Mike & dagger

This untrained monkey appreciates your responses. One day I'll graduate to the level of semi-trained monkey.
Click to expand...

Until then, stay away from my car..hahhahahaha
 
Dang I ate too much!!!! My Mom is here and here pies (and everything else she cooks) are just incredible..... Hope everyone else (OK, those Canada types had their T-Day a month earlier...) had a great day.

I may try the IronX as part of the first wash event, and I'll clay just the horizontal surfaces or is a whole-car claying required?
 
Do the baggie test (hand inside sandwich baggie, glide along surface - if feels rough, it needs clay).
 
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