New Mustang - Paint issues that I need help resolving in Orlando Area

scottmoyer

scottmoyer

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I just bought a new car on Saturday and, unfortunately, it was raining when I took delivery of the car. Sunday I washed and tried claying the car and found that the car has hard water etching all over it It appears that the dealer had a weekly car washing group come spray the cars down, but didn't dry them. The Florida sun dries a car very quickly leaving water spots.

I tried using the clay to remove the spots, but that was a no go. I tried vinegar, no go. I tried multiple compounds by hand and machine, but all was a no go. All of my product is for light swirl marks as all of my cars rarely need paint correction. Being that this is a new car, I should not have to do all of this work myself and I really don't think the dealer has the skill to fix it.

I plan on reaching out to Ford and have them pay for this paint issue, that should be warrantied as a new car paint defect, but I need someone from the Orlando area (where I live) or a mobile person close to Lakeland (where I work) that can remove heavy water spotting from the top surfaces of the car and also lighter vertical paint spots. Below is a shot of what covers the hood, roof and trunk areas. The sides of the car just has water spotting. I need help from someone experienced in this type of work and can make my new car look new! Thanks

59969d1504535378-new-mustang-paint-issues-i-need-help-resolving-orlando-area-20170904092205.jpg
 
3D Eraser Gel. Wipe on, let dwell, work with a MF Sponge, rinse. May take 2 or so applications. If that doesn't get them out, it's etched into the clear. If you do a light polish and it doesn't come out, get with Ford.
 
If that were me and the car being new...I'll take it back to dealer and have them fix it or get another car w/o defects.

Tom
 
Here is a good article from Mike Phillips on the three types of water spots. Would appear you have Type II.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ypes-water-spots-type-i-type-ii-type-iii.html

Now you have some options. If it were me, I would do my normal new car prep:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...2016-mustang-eb-prem-pp-new-vehicle-prep.html

This would involve all the steps in the link above. For your vehicle I'd start most conservative, meaning as PDQGP mentioned, maybe even less. I use CarPro Spotless and it s very effective. McKee's 37 has a spot remover, I have it, but have not tried it yet, only Spotless.

But you've already washed, iron-x'd, clayed, now it's time to machine polish. Compounds by hand will not give you the good downward forced rotation of a DA. If those are type II on new factory paint, a normal section pass of a quality compound and pad should make short work. The important thing to note is that, do not compound to remove the spots.... Compound the entire vehicle so it's level prior to doing an LSP.

Most folks will make the mistake of spot buffing an area to remove defects "AT ALL COSTS" then when they wipe the product away, they find a burn spot in the clear. It's important to do 16"x16" section passes (six section passes over the area with slow arm movement).

The alternative is to go back to Ford. First off, Ford will not give you a new vehicle. This one is off their books, and is now registered and titled... Paint is not considered a major defect for a return. What they will do is pull it into their body shop will spot buff the area with a da, or rotary, perhaps even a wet sand... and then hand it back.

IMO, I would try to see if someone from this forum AGO can take a look at your vehicle. Worse case, is see if you can connect with some of the guys close to AG, Franks is namely one guy on this forum I would connect with, even if it's a drive. I'd also make the drive to see GSKR, Sizzle Chest (Autodermatology). A quick email or call to Mike Phillips may get you in the right direction.

IMO I think a quality pad, quality compound and the right techniques will get you the results you're looking for. I'd still say something to the dealership, but still let a AGO'er take a look at it. There are plenty in Florida.
 
scottmoyer said:
I just bought a new car on Saturday and, unfortunately, it was raining when I took delivery of the car. Sunday I washed and tried claying the car and found that the car has hard water etching all over it It appears that the dealer had a weekly car washing group come spray the cars down, but didn't dry them. The Florida sun dries a car very quickly leaving water spots.

I tried using the clay to remove the spots, but that was a no go. I tried vinegar, no go. I tried multiple compounds by hand and machine, but all was a no go. All of my product is for light swirl marks as all of my cars rarely need paint correction. Being that this is a new car, I should not have to do all of this work myself and I really don't think the dealer has the skill to fix it.

I plan on reaching out to Ford and have them pay for this paint issue, that should be warrantied as a new car paint defect, but I need someone from the Orlando area (where I live) or a mobile person close to Lakeland (where I work) that can remove heavy water spotting from the top surfaces of the car and also lighter vertical paint spots. Below is a shot of what covers the hood, roof and trunk areas. The sides of the car just has water spotting. I need help from someone experienced in this type of work and can make my new car look new! Thanks

59969d1504535378-new-mustang-paint-issues-i-need-help-resolving-orlando-area-20170904092205.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks topical but sometimes there etched.If you can't find anyone to repair it in 2 hers from you.
 
1772 634 1622 Jeff.St Lucia auto spa.I have a FB page.
 
Good luck with your issues, how about some pics of the IROC?
 
Will the gel work on the entire car? The front splitter and grill even have the white residue build up from being hosed off, but never dried.

I have a Flex rotary with the 3M wool pad that I used many years ago with fantastic results, but my foam backing plate fell apart. My last excellent results were with the 3M wool and Perfect It compound, then used the Flex with the 3M black waffle Perfect-It foam pad and some 3M Perfect-It Foam Polishing Glaze. Since then, I've been using the Porter Cable DA with Lake Country pads, but I only have Meguiar's 205 and Wolfgang Uber compounds. The Lake Country pads are the orange and white, so probably not aggressive enough. Would 3M still be a good product to purchase and use today?

As far as going back to the dealer to have them replace the car, all of their cars have this water damage, so they won't be able to provide me a car that is any better. Also, I bought this car, this weekend, because I returned a car I bought from them 3 weeks ago. That car was used with 5k miles, but I found that the car was wrecked and repainted, so I returned it as this wasn't disclosed and I didn't see the repairs while there. I assumed it was almost new so I quickly checked the car over, but didn't look close enough for tape lines or body work.The dealer took the old car back in on trade, paying me the full price I paid, but I still lost out on fees associated with title, transfer, state fees, etc. I don't want to deal with this dealer any more. If this can be fixed, I want it fixed by someone that knows what they're doing and not the dealership prep dept.

Here's the IROC-Z photos. It's a show car and multi-platinum award winner.
 
Abrading it off would be last resort.Try some clr at home depot or mdr with a towel over it for 10 minutes and rinse see what you have.Mdr is made from optimum. I have a unorthodox way of removing that and 98 percent of the time it works.
 
Thanks guys. I've reached out to my local Ford dealer to see what Ford Corporate will permit for a repair. If they recommend an outside detailer to get the optimum results, I'll reach out to someone listed here. They took pictures yesterday and opened a case with warranty services. I'll try the CLR option myself before that though. Didn't know I could use that on paint.
 
I have an update on the water spots. The dealer authorized a local detailer to wet sand and buff the car to remove the marks. He has the car right now and isn't happy with his results. He started with 3000 grit, but the spots remained. He went to 2500, and they were still there. 2000, still there. He went all the way down to 1200, but the marks are still there, all over the car. There is no orange peel left now and a polished area looks like a show car finish, but you can still see the marks in the shine. They've etched into the paint that far!!. I don't know what to do now. I bought this car to replace a car I bought 3 weeks earlier that had been wrecked, and not disclosed at time of sale. The dealer took the first car back, and I worked a deal on this one. Now I have this issue!!! Not sure of my options right now.
 
Attorney is your option... wet sanding factory paint is bad. Factory paint is about 4 mils thick. They haven’t left you with much paint. Factory paint thickness is about as thick as a post-it note.

Why a detailer would wet sand factory paint is beyond me. I won’t do it...

Sounds like they owe you a repaint.
Not to rub salt into the wound but you bought a vehicle from a dealer that already sold you a wreck.

Looks like a small claims court filing. Hopefully your previous issue can be used as evidence.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
Latest update...

Ford authorized a repaint on the car. It doesn't qualify for a buyback because the car has never been in service and doesn't meet the requirements for a buyback. They also stated that only a Ford body shop can do the work. I was hoping I could take it to the shop of my choice since my local dealer doesn't have a body shop, but Ford stated that it had to go to another dealer.

The body shop at this dealership sanded down to 800 and the marks were still there. At this point, the clear was virtually gone. The last I heard, 320 was needed to get the marks out of the paint. Thankfully, the body shop is working with me on a custom paint option. I'm not happy having a new car with a total repaint. I only hope they do a good job. I'm hopeful since they use Sikkens paint and not some off the shelf stuff.

BTW, they will be dismantling the entire car prior to paint. The windows are coming out, the bumper covers are coming off, the headlights/taillights, grill, etc are all being removed prior to paint.
 
That is great---a full repaint!

If you can---see if they can throw on a little extra clear. That way you'll have a lot to work with during the wet sanding process in getting the
panels as flat as possible. Flatter the panels, greater the gloss!

Tom
 
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