New paint (black), rough to touch, flat

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abefroman

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I'm a total newbie to this, although I've been doing some research.

I just touched up the better half of my hood, all of the spoiler, plus a few other areas, (spray paint over primer over bondo). I used black spray paint and then original paint was black as well.

The new paint is rough to the touch, and flat, no shine or gloss.

I haven't clear coated it yet.

What is the best way to handle this?

Do I want to wet sand it? Or should I just try polishing it? Should I start with something like Griot's polish #1 or a rubbing compound? The rest of the paint is in fairly good shape for the age of the car.

Should I do this first then clear coat it?

I don't need it to look absolutely perfect, as the car is about 10 years old.

I don't have a polisher now, but was thinking of picking up the Griot's 6".

Thanks in advance!
 
a lot of paint under clear coat are actually flat. the clear is what creates the gloss. if you wet sand the current coats, I would add one more unsanded top coat so it's not super slick which will help the clear adhere better. once you have your clear on, you will be able to wet sand out the orange peel/rough texture in the clear and then compound and polish to a nice finish.

A good approach might be to see if a local junkyard will give you a quarter panel or trunk lid really cheap that you could practice on. Get your technique down and then proceed to your ride. (Someone else posted this junkyard suggestion in another thread earlier today...not taking credit).:props:
 
wdmaccord said:
a lot of paint under clear coat are actually flat. the clear is what creates the gloss. if you wet sand the current coats, I would add one more unsanded top coat so it's not super slick which will help the clear adhere better. once you have your clear on, you will be able to wet sand out the orange peel/rough texture in the clear and then compound and polish to a nice finish.

A good approach might be to see if a local junkyard will give you a quarter panel or trunk lid really cheap that you could practice on. Get your technique down and then proceed to your ride. (Someone else posted this junkyard suggestion in another thread earlier today...not taking credit).:props:
Click to expand...

Thanks! Didn't know that.

Is it worth polishing after the clearcoat? Or typically no?
 
Hey Mike,

I'm working on a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon, touching up some areas that have been bondo'd.

I used rattle spray dupli-color.
 
abefroman said:
Hey Mike,

I'm working on a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon, touching up some areas that have been bondo'd.

I used rattle spray dupli-color.
Click to expand...


You should be able to smooth the paint out at least a little. The key is to get plenty of paint on and then let it dry really good and hard.

Next, sand it using some fine grade sanding paper, a fine grade "finishing" paper would be best but you usually have to order these from someplace online like us, Autogeek.net as your local stores will just care generic wet/dry papers.

But sand it lightly to get the surface flat and then rub your sanding marks out by hand or machine using a quality compound like one of these,

Meguiar's M105
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
Menzerna FG 400

If you work by hand start with a piece of folded terry cloth and finish with a foam applicator pad.

If you work by machine probably stick with a foam cutting pad.


To do any of the above though you're going to need to have enough film build to work with and it's going to need to be fully dry and hardened, like after sitting in the sun for a few days.


Like someone mentioned above, if you really want to be safe then spray a junker panel using the same paints and process you used on your car and dial in your process on the paint on the junker panel before testing your process out on your car.


:)
 
Thanks for those tips!

Just to confirm, is that before or after I clear coat?
 
abefroman said:
Thanks for those tips!

Just to confirm, is that before or after I clear coat?
Click to expand...


You could go either way...

Flatten down the black paint and spray plenty of clear over it. The clear is going to both take the shape of the surface and smooth over the shape of the surface.

If you sand the black flat you have to either spray the clear right over the flat sanded black or spray some more black. You can't really compound and polish it and then spray over it.

We have some real painters on this forum, I just know enough to be dangerous.

Maybe we can get one of our guys that actually paints as a profession to chime in...


:)
 
First before you started your should have done some research as to how to paint a car.

Since you have already done most of the steps, do not wet sand the color.

When spraying the clear coat make sure to start with a ghost coat (very light coat of clear)

Then you will spray 2-3 Wet coats (Heavy coat) This is where your gloss is going to come from. Make sure not to spray to heavily or to close to the paint or you will get blobs or drips.

Allow for the paint to cure for a few days before doing any sort of wet sanding.

After the pain has cured take 1500 grit sand paper and start wet sanding and gradually work up to 2500 or 3000 grit.

This sanding is to get rid of your orange peal look.

After you have done the wet sanding your will begin to use a rubbing compound like M105 and move up to M205 to remove the wet sanding scratches.

Hope that helps.
 
I did my tailgate a while back using Dupli-Color.
Came out fine, what I did was wet sand in between coats,you will have over spray, hard to get around it using a can.
I used 3k paper, I sprayed 6 coats of paint and 6 coats of clear.
A lot of sanding but it's a quick sand, just enough to knockdown the high spots and over spray , that's where the roughness comes in.

I let it cure three days then used 105, 205 but didn't wax or seal, let it cure at least 30 days before you wax it.
It's been about 4 months now and holding up great.
 
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