New to AG and Paint Correction

k20trick said:
Hello, I also have a neighbor with the same car and his paint has the same issue except his is a lot more swirled out so the owner doesn't notice. I have to literally point it out to him with the right light. It seems like this is a toyota paint issue to me or the car was really neglected with the prior owner. I have also have a toyota that I buffed out and it looks immaculate and that car is 10 years older so there is definitely something going on with the paint.

Ive noticed two other same cars and colors were buffed out by zmcgovern and detail miami however their pictures are from far away so you don't notice whats really going on with the paint as they have been glossed up by coatings/sealants/waxes and I'm not clear whether they had this issue or not.

Not sure whats going on, Im not sure if I should leave it alone or go for another pass. I did two additional passes and it was noticeably better however without a thickness gauge im not sure how much paint I removed during the process. I will however order one soon and see if its acceptable paint left in that area and proceed.

If anyone else can chime in please let me know.
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if its chipped through the paint u cant do anything but live with it or get a repaint.
 
fightnews said:
if its chipped through the paint u cant do anything but live with it or get a repaint.
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No its not chipped through the paint it seems under it like divots. I was thinking micro water spots im not even sure if thats possible, these spots also make the paint look hazy not sure why under flourescent lights, in the sun it looks Gorgeous.
 
Just a little update I got a paint thickness gauge to play around with and I had a little fun with the toy. After washing the car, previously sealed and waxed, I went around the whole car and average readings were 6 mils thick lowest was around 5.7 and highest was 7 which was on the aluminum hood. I tested the tool with the calibration sheets and for some odd reason it was almost only 1% off on steel and read 10% higher on aluminum odd that it does that but thats what I saw. I tried recalibrating the tool and it would read closer to 3-5% on the aluminum side but would then go back to being off by 10%.

Im not sure if the previous waxes or sealants plays a role, but is it safe to say I can start some wetsanding? The door jams read 2.5-5 mils. Or could it be that the paint is harder than I thought or maybe I wasnt going aggressive enough? Using m105 and lc orange pad on pc with 10 lbs of pressure enough to see the machine wanting to slow down but not enough to make it slow down. 2nd pass on test spot with meguiars cutting disc mf pad.
 
k20trick said:
Just a little update I got a paint thickness gauge to play around with and I had a little fun with the toy. After washing the car, previously sealed and waxed, I went around the whole car and average readings were 6 mils thick lowest was around 5.7 and highest was 7 which was on the aluminum hood. I tested the tool with the calibration sheets and for some odd reason it was almost only 1% off on steel and read 10% higher on aluminum odd that it does that but thats what I saw. I tried recalibrating the tool and it would read closer to 3-5% on the aluminum side but would then go back to being off by 10%.

Im not sure if the previous waxes or sealants plays a role, but is it safe to say I can start some wetsanding? The door jams read 2.5-5 mils. Or could it be that the paint is harder than I thought or maybe I wasnt going aggressive enough? Using m105 and lc orange pad on pc with 10 lbs of pressure enough to see the machine wanting to slow down but not enough to make it slow down. 2nd pass on test spot with meguiars cutting disc mf pad.
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I think you're over estimating the "cut" of a 2 step paint correction with a DA machine. You could compound a panel 10x with M105 and a cutting pad, and I would bet that you are not going to loose a great deal of thickness (note: do this at your own risk). If you do a 2 step paint correction, that does not mean your paint is now so thin that you cannot correct it again (assuming you were not starting with exceptionally thin paint, of course).

I've done multi-step corrections on vehicles with paint readings in the 70's without issue. In fact, my wife's mazda had average thicknesses around 80 microns on it and it was just 1 year old when we got it. I did a 2 step correction on it 3 years ago and have done light polishing several times since. Never an issue with the paint, and the thickness readings are still about the same. Swirl marks are quite shallow defects, and are easily removed for this reason. They may appear bad under inspection lighting, but they are still just shallow defects in most cases.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Which gauge were ya playing around with?

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
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http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...aint-thickness-gauge-affordable-everyone.html

Just remember the readings are everything underneath i.e. clear coat paint primer etc... There are other high end gauges, but for the weekend warrior like me this was very affordable.

zmcgovern45 said:
I think you're over estimating the "cut" of a 2 step paint correction with a DA machine. You could compound a panel 10x with M105 and a cutting pad, and I would bet that you are not going to loose a great deal of thickness (note: do this at your own risk). If you do a 2 step paint correction, that does not mean your paint is now so thin that you cannot correct it again (assuming you were not starting with exceptionally thin paint, of course).

I've done multi-step corrections on vehicles with paint readings in the 70's without issue. In fact, my wife's mazda had average thicknesses around 80 microns on it and it was just 1 year old when we got it. I did a 2 step correction on it 3 years ago and have done light polishing several times since. Never an issue with the paint, and the thickness readings are still about the same. Swirl marks are quite shallow defects, and are easily removed for this reason. They may appear bad under inspection lighting, but they are still just shallow defects in most cases.
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Hey Zach, what would you say the average readings were on the other Lexus's that your corrected including yours and Emkurths?

Do you have any pictures of the upper panels of the isfs you corrected? i.e. the roof hood and trunk area?
 
k20trick said:
Hey Zach, what would you say the average readings were on the other Lexus's that your corrected including yours and Emkurths?

Do you have any pictures of the upper panels of the isfs you corrected? i.e. the roof hood and trunk area?
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Not sure. It's been over a year since we worked on Matt's and I haven't even done a proper correction on mine yet (too busy working on everyone else's cars). I will take some measurements on my car when it is clean.

I don't have any pictures of Matt's car when we were working on it. I only took 3 pictures during the entire process and they were just of the door and B pillar.
 
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