Newb Detailing Advice. Where to start?

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mazdaspeed321

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Glad to have found a forum on detailing. Stoked to learn more about it!

I just bought a 2013 Mazdaspeed white and I live in Hot FL by the beach, so im wanting to protect the paint as much as possible. Im coming from a 98 cherokee so detailing to me is going through a car wash.

I have already bought Chemical Guys Jet Seal sealant as I have heard very good reviews. So Im wanting to know what I should put on or do before and after I apply the Jet seal.

I did wax it once with megs about 2 months ago and its pretty much gone now. From what I have learned from google is I should probably go in these steps:

1st: clean car with light dish detergent to remove all oils and previous wax.

2nd: Clay bar with medium clay

3rd: Wash with a good car wash soap

4th: apply a polish, would like suggestions on brand and which one because it seems like there is a million different ones. Whitelight from Chem. Guys looked good?? [Edit: this is considered a Glaze]

5th: Jet seal

6th: Wax, also would like suggestions for a pearl white car, and one best to withstand the harsh elements of florida. I like to have it shiny as possible. Chem. Guys Buttery Wax looked good, but would like all input.

7th: Spray on Sealant. I saw a video of Chem. Guys using their Nano Skin (if thats correct) as just a quick extra layer of protection.

Also for the polishing this pretty much requires a buffer right? And which one would I want to get being a beginner.

Thanks a lot. Sorry if this post is a little off of the forum rules, but this is my first thread, Would appreciate any criticisms or suggestions.

Edit: I just read that glaze and polish can be bad in wet weather, so I would probably not want to do those in rainy FL right? Also being a 2013 the paint is in very good cond. it does have a couple very small chip marks that are not to the metal and the car runs rich being a Speed so the back hatch is always covered with specs of black soot, even after washing there seems to be micro black specs all over the hatch.
 
First off welcome.
Next this page detailingtips has a flow chart to help you with the steps to take. Below that are articles and videos to help you with each step. It's going to be easy at first to get overwhelmed, but once you have learned the right way, your decisions on products will be easier.
 
for polishes, i'd check out Carpro Reflect, and 3D HD Adapt
perhaps Scholls S3 XXL I personally use Adapt the most out of the 3

Thats a great range to complete any job
a great AIO would be 3D HD Speed

I like 3D HD Poxy for a LSP as it has wax and a sealant in one

A combo of Speed and Poxy will give a greater shine then just an AIO but with the least about of steps versus dedicated polish, dedicated sealant(WG DGPS) and dedicated wax(Pinnacle Souvern paste)
but using dedicated products will most likely yield the most shine/depth but obviously the most time consuming route
 
Welcome to AGO. You will learn a lot about from here. Enjoy the headaches....LOL Either way you will be a better detailer soon!!

It appears that you are a Chemical Guys Fan. Nothing wrong with Chemical Guys there are quite a few people that stand by their products. If AGO sells it then you know they have met the stringent requirements to be sold on AGO.

If you ever want to experiment with different products in the future look into Wolfgangs, Pinnacle, Blackfire, Meguiar's, Poorboy's and many others. I do know when it comes to waxes Pinnacle Souveran is awesome. Either way whatever you decide to do you are on the right track.
 
Welcome to AGO. You're in the right place to learn!

I got the detailing bug a half year ago, and enjoy working on the family's cars (and a couple of neighbor's cars as well). If I were to start over, I'd have read much more in the forums before spending $$. Search the forum for steps you think you will do. Pay particular attention to Mike Phillips' articles and videos, and follow the links within them which apply to your interest. He has great ideas on Best Practices ('always do a test spot', and 'start with least aggressive product & process', etc.), Processes (DA technique, etc.), and Products. By buying before completing my 'study', I spent more $$ on products than I should have, and now have some that I use rarely or not at all.

If your test spot with White Light looks good (use a single-LED flashlight, at various angles/distances, to check for swirls), proceed with the whole car, otherwise you may need a more aggressive product, pad or procedure (such as a three step correction). (BTW, as I understand it, CG's White Light is a polisher, glaze and sealant, so my preference would be to apply a wax instead of Jet Seal, but that is just my opinion.)

You won't regret spending on a great DA. I got the Griot's 6 inch, 25 foot cord (lifetime warranty!). I heard it's more powerful than the PC, but I find it very forgiving, and easily 'grew into' it. I use it with a 5" plate and pads. (AGO VERY kindly substituted the 6" plate with a 5", bc I'd read that 5" is easier.) I added a 3" plate and pads, and now I can handle the whole car.

Get 2 pads of each type that will suit your products and processes. You don't want to work a pad too long before cleaning it, nor do you want to stop working in order to clean it.

As a newbie, I gave myself a lot of extra work. This is what I now do:
-Do a test spot, with all products/processes, from start to finish, before doing the entire car. Modify product/process if needed.
-Tape anything you don't want abraded with the DA.
-Learn whether or not your product stains trim: if 'no', TEST it anyway. -Keep that buffer on the surface until it stops!
-Work in a clean, well organized area.

One other thought on your note:
-I'd get light clay, not medium. I never needed more on my 6 yr old cars.

You don't mention techniques for car care. After you've done all that work, you don't want to do it all over. KEEP your car looking great by learning about the 2 bucket wash, keeping microfiber for wash and for polish and for wax/sealant separate, etc.

As mentioned previously, you are definitely on the right track. I find testing new product combinations and techniques to be a lot of fun.

Enjoy yourself!
 
(Re-posted, as I accidentally put my initial reply within another reply in this thread...)

Welcome to AGO. You're in the right place to learn!

I got the detailing bug a half year ago, and enjoy working on the family's cars (and a couple of neighbor's cars as well). If I were to start over, I'd have read much more in the forums before spending $$. Search the forum for steps you think you will do. Pay particular attention to Mike Phillips' articles and videos, and follow the links within them which apply to your interest. He has great ideas on Best Practices ('always do a test spot', and 'start with least aggressive product & process', etc.), Processes (DA technique, etc.), and Products. By buying before completing my 'study', I spent more $$ on products than I should have, and now have some that I use rarely or not at all.

If your test spot with White Light looks good (use a single-LED flashlight, at various angles/distances, to check for swirls), proceed with the whole car, otherwise you may need a more aggressive product, pad or procedure (such as a three step correction). (BTW, as I understand it, CG's White Light is a polisher, glaze and sealant, so my preference would be to apply a wax instead of Jet Seal, but that is just my opinion.)

You won't regret spending on a great DA. I got the Griot's 6 inch, 25 foot cord (lifetime warranty!). I heard it's more powerful than the PC, but I find it very forgiving, and easily 'grew into' it. I use it with a 5" plate and pads. (AGO VERY kindly substituted the 6" plate with a 5", bc I'd read that 5" is easier.) I added a 3" plate and pads, and now I can handle the whole car.

Get 2 pads of each type that will suit your products and processes. You don't want to work a pad too long before cleaning it, nor do you want to stop working in order to clean it.

As a newbie, I gave myself a lot of extra work. :doh:This is what I now do:
-Do a test spot, with all products/processes, from start to finish, before doing the entire car. Modify product/process if needed.
-Tape anything you don't want abraded with the DA.
-Learn whether or not your product stains trim: If yes, tape it; if 'no', TEST it anyway.
-Keep that buffer on the surface until it stops!
-Work in a clean, well organized area.

My other thoughts on your note:
-I never needed more than a light clay on my 6 yr old cars.
-You might want to get something to spot-remove tar.

You don't mention techniques for car care. After you've done all that work, you don't want to do it all over. KEEP your car looking great by learning about the 2 bucket wash, keeping microfiber for wash and for polish and for wax/sealant separate, etc.

As mentioned previously, you are definitely on the right track. I find testing new product combinations and techniques to be a lot of fun.

Enjoy yourself!
 
thanks for the replies!

I decided not to polish since my paint is in very good condition, im just going to do a glaze to add some shine. Do you need to use a buffer to remove glaze?

Also Trying to decide on a wax that is somewhat durable and quality, but on the cheaper side. Also is there a big difference on paste or liquid wax. Im guessing the paste would be better quality and durability, but is that at the cost of the application process? Some of the waxes that looked appealing was CGs butter wet wax, and Poorboys natty blue.

Im not a chem guys fan since Ive never even used any of their products, I guess their products are just really nicely laid out on what their supposed to do.
 
I live in Florida.

HD Speed topped with HD Poxy, great combo, excellent value, great shine and 5-6 months protection. I tested this combo on numerous non garaged Florida vehicles from May 2015. Stick with a "system" approach. Both can be applied by hand and when you jump into the DA world Speed is a great product to learn with. When I comes to polish, I prefer HD Polish over Adapt, but that's just me.

I like some CG products, butter wet wax was not one of them. I cannot recommend that product. I tossed my BWW. In my opinion Poxy is far superior on the longevity side.

Natty Blue is good stuff but longevity in Florida will be an issue.

Poxy will make your white car POP!

2009 Altima, HD Polish one step topped with HD Poxy. Did this over the summer, it sits outside in Florida heat.



 
custmsprty said:
I live in Florida.

HD Speed topped with HD Poxy, great combo, excellent value, great shine and 5-6 months protection. I tested this combo on numerous non garaged Florida vehicle from May 2015. Stick with a "system" approach. Both can be applied by hand and when you jump into the DA world Speed is a great product to learn with. When I comes to polish, I prefer HD Polish over Adapt, but that's just me.

I like some CG products, butter wet wax was not one of them. I cannot recommend that product. I tossed my BWW. In my opinion Poxy is far superior on the longevity side.

Natty Blue is good stuff but longevity in Florida will be an issue.

Poxy will make your white car POP!
Click to expand...

Is HD poxy a brand or a product? Edit found out its by 3D. Thanks for the suggestion, definitely going to go with the poxy.

Will it be ok to do the poxy after the Jet Seal because the poxy is a wax/sealant.
 
I didn't know AG sold any Chemical Guys products until now...
 
mazdaspeed321 said:
Is HD poxy a brand or a product? Edit found out its by 3D. Thanks for the suggestion, definitely going to go with the poxy.

Will it be ok to do the poxy after the Jet Seal because the poxy is a wax/sealant.
Click to expand...

That's kind of over kill, if you have Jetseal already not much need for Poxy.

If your'e doing this by hand you basically will never get the "polished" look, not until you step up to a da machine. My best advice is knock all those steps down.

Clay and wash and apply Jet seal and call it a day. You can top JS with a nuba but really not much to gain by doing that. You definitely want JS on the clean paint so it adheres to the paint.

I personally never "knowingly" use glazes.

I also never top a freshly sealed or waxed vehicle with a "spray sealant". And I have CG V-7 and many others. I don't use any of them till after a wash or for a quick shine up, but never after a fresh LSP application.
 
So what wax would be good and durable to top jet seal. I'm thinking on probably topping the wax with a spray on sealant also.
 
custmsprty said:
That's kind of over kill, if you have Jetseal already not much need for Poxy.

If your'e doing this by hand you basically will never get the "polished" look, not until you step up to a da machine. My best advice is knock all those steps down.

Clay and wash and apply Jet seal and call it a day. You can top JS with a nuba but really not much to gain by doing that. You definitely want JS on the clean paint so it adheres to the paint.

I personally never "knowingly" use glazes.

I also never top a freshly sealed or waxed vehicle with a "spray sealant". And I have CG V-7 and many others. I don't use any of them till after a wash or for a quick shine up, but never after a fresh LSP application.
Click to expand...

Ok so I'll throw the spray sealant out. Should I wash my car with light dish detergent before I clay to get all previous wax/oils off then clay bar, then wash again with a good car soap. Or should I use a car shampoo? Or are those the same thing
 
I personally don't ever use dish soap on my vehicles, but that's just my personal preference. I use CG Citrus Wash and Gloss in a little higher concentration when prepping for a fresh coat of sealant or prior to machine polishing.
 
All good advice up to this point and not much more i can add for your benefit. Sounds like you have a good list of product requests too. The only thing i will share is that i have found carnauba based waxes to be extremely perishable in FL. I have lived here for 30 years and have found them to range from a week's durability to maybe a month. The sun, heat and UV turn them to mush quickly and then the wicked downpours take some of it quickly to the storm gutters. I use only sealants and will be going to a coating on my car very soon.

Where are you in FL?

Good luck with whatever you decide to use but more importantly, enjoy the effort and the shine!
 
Puckman said:
All good advice up to this point and not much more i can add for your benefit. Sounds like you have a good list of product requests too. The only thing i will share is that i have found carnauba based waxes to be extremely perishable in FL. I have lived here for 30 years and have found them to range from a week's durability to maybe a month. The sun, heat and UV turn them to mush quickly and then the wicked downpours take some of it quickly to the storm gutters. I use only sealants and will be going to a coating on my car very soon.

Where are you in FL?

Good luck with whatever you decide to use but more importantly, enjoy the effort and the shine!
Click to expand...

:dblthumb2:

Yeah I pretty much only use them on my garage queen.

I'm going to try out Polish Angel Sealant this weekend on my Rogue as I haven't put anything on it since February. And ordered some of their coating on sale at a sister site yesterday.
 
Puckman said:
(whoopsie, be careful custm). :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Superior Car Care is a PBMA company as is Autopia which both carry Polish Angel :dblthumb2:

I may not always play nice, but I always play by the rules :D
 
Ahh, i fully accept and appreciate the correction, custm! Just trying to keep a friend in kind regards from the Mother Ship. Yup, you're a good team player like most of us 99%'ers and i always enjoy your posts.

And it would seem all the recommendations for PA in the "What Should AG Carry In 2016" thread seems like a no brainer then. I've heard all good things about it.
 
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