Newbie Question

[jernal024]

Hello,

I am new to this forum and new to detailing. I have a few questions for the expert(s)

#1 - Does using abrisive compunds and polishers to remove imperfections (similar to the "man versus machine" article) wear down your clearcoat or paint forever? I mean, I read that most enthusiasts remove swirls and scratches either annually or bi-annualy. Can you eventually diminish all your clearcoat after a few years of buffing and polishing?

#2 - I am going to buy a PC 7424 or other DA polisher. How many pads (of each type) should I use to complete a regular 4 door sedan (Volkswagen Jetta). I mean, do I just buy one of each cut and so "on the fly" cleanings the whole way through? or should I have 2 and switch them after a few "on the fly cleanings".

#3 - There seem to be an endless amount of products that use the terms compound, polish, glaze, and polish interechangeably. My question is very personal to my situation.

I want to do some swirl and scratch removal using my new DA polisher. I recently purchased Jorgen's Bucket of Shine from Costco. It has a glaze/polish that I want to use to remove imperfections. I need to know if the product I want to use is abrasive enough to do the "real work" or should I use a more abrasive compound first and Jorgen's product for the finishing polish?

This is Jorgen's product:
Jorgen's Garage : Polish & Wax : 2nd CHANCE™ GLAZE & POLISH

I also purchased 3M scratch and Swirl remover (can that be part of my equation)?

#5 - In "man versus machine" you didn't use any cleaner after the final polish and before the wax. How important is this step?

#6 - Does sealant really make that big of an impact when used before wax?


Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Bunky]

#1. Yes, removing defects means removing the upper layer of your paint since you are leveling the paint (removing the scratches that are valleys). You may not be able to remove everything if they deep without removing the clear layer.

The idea is you polish and then wash using safe washing/drying techniques to minimize the need for abrasive polishing.

#2. The pad selection depends on the paint condition/softness and the polish but typically there are three types: light cutting (like LC orange), polishing (LC white), and finishing (LC black). It is useful to have 3 to 4 of each type so you can switch without the need to completely clean as you go.

 

[A4 1.8tqm]

#1- YES, but you shouldn't be afraid. Keep researching!

#2- Lake Country pads: 2 or more each of Orange, White and Gray. Get the PC XP or New Griots DA

#3- I have no idea about Jorgens, try it, compare with 3M and let us know!

#4- It's a good idea to Clean the paint after your final polish to be sure that you have removed all the swirls/scratches you intended to correct and don't have polish residue remaining on the paint. Especially if you have never done this before.

#6- Sealant will give you longer durability than wax alone, if you wax all the time it probably doesn't matter. I like Wolfgang Sealant and then still use Max Wax regularly (and a boutique wax every once in a while).

Good luck! :xyxthumbs:

 

[jernal024]

#1- Have you guys ever heard of anyone having to get their car re-painted after a few years of buffing?

#2- I think since I am just starting I will get 2 of each type of pad and do some "on the fly" cleanings.

How many OTF cleanings do you think I can do before I should switch pads?

#3- I did some research on Jorgen's and I found out the it is made by Chemical Guys. They just rebrand it as Jorgen's. I also found out that they have 2 more abrasive products, a 1500 grit scratch and swirl remover and a 7000 S&S remover.

So, the Glaze and polish that I got is the final polish before wax.

I think the 3m stuff is the same, so I will be returning it for sure.

 

[A4 1.8tqm]

What is the vehicle you will be working on? Can you post some pics?

1- There are soo many variables, you can probably do a major correction and then maintenance polishings twice a year for the rest of your life and be fine. Don't quote me on that though. I don't know what your working on, if it's been polished by some guy who thinks he knows everything but has never done it before (hopefully not) etc. etc.

2- Until the pad needs to be changed... Temperature, amount/type of polish, type of paint your working on, what polisher your using. All variables that will decide the answer for you. Do one panel, clean the pad, repeat. When you lose correction ability or the pad gums up on you it's time for a fresh pad.

3- If you need, pick up a compound like Megs Ultimate or 3M perfect-it, or even the Jorgens I'd like to know what you think of it! If your worried about messing up whatever car your starting on, just go get a panel from the junk yard to practice on (or practice on a friends beater). :xyxthumbs: