Newbie wanting to wetsand and buff using a DA Polisher?

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claf

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Let me start off by saying I am not looking for perfection, only "better".

I have a newly painted car in single stage urethane (non-metallic). Typically some orange peal, some dry spots, some shadows, couple runs.

It's about a 5- five miles / hour from five feet looks ok.

Plan on buying the Porter Cable polisher but don't know where to start.

I have some 1500 w/d paper to possibly start with but need my hand held on types of pads and what kinds of "juice".

Take pity on a novice.

Thanks, Bob
 
Hi Bob,

Was just about to log out for the day and found your post with no replies... Sorry about that, I've been offline working on other projects.

The topic of can you remove sanding marks using a DA polisher comes up quite often.

Another way to say it would be,

Can you remove sanding marks using a tool that the buffing pad will stop if you apply too much pressure or the face of the pad is on edge or on an un-even surface?


Can it be done? Yes, I've written an article on this topic and actually removed sanding marks out of a "Factory Baked-on Finish", which generally speaking will be more difficult to do than working on fresh, usually softer paint.

The best tool for the job is a rotary buffer because it has so much more power being a direct drive tool.

I have helped a number of people do this exact thing you want to do and at least one of them posted a follow-up to the project. Lots of people join forums, ask questions, get answers and then we never see or hear from them again. His results were just what I expected, it took a long time...

Keep in mind, it's easy to sand paint, that's putting scratches into the paint, removing 100% of them is the tricky part. Everyone has different criteria and expectations of what's "good" in their eyes, for me and in my position, when I type about removing sanding marks, demonstrate removing sanding marks or do it as a job, the criteria is 100% removal. I point this out because you can sand paint and then restore a glossy, shiny finish, but that doesn't mean 100% of the sanding marks are removed, it just means the surface is shiny and all too often many tracers or pigtails remain.

But it can be done, probably the best recipe I can think of for success would be a rotary buffer, and if you're open to this idea then the Makita Rotary Buffer is a very good choice and with small buffing pads you could learn to use it and get the job done faster and more effectively.

Makita Rotary Buffer


If you're dead set on using a tool with a Free Floating Spindle Assembly then here's one way you could probably do it...

Cutting
DA Polisher
Meguiar's M105
5.5" Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing pads


After that you would have to polish the paint to remove any tick marks or haze left by the MicroFinger buffing pads and the oscillating action of the tool but that's to be expected.


Here are some important and related threads for you to read before undertaking such a project, the first one is long, about 10,758 works with close to 100 pictures... but very in-depth and it would make the buffing step faster...

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips

Here's where I documented removing sanding marks with a DA, note I used some VERY non-aggressive product on purpose to show would could be done with this approach, using a more aggressive pad and product would make the job faster and easier...

Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the Wolfgang Twins


More...
Wet-sanding, Color-sanding & Damp-sanding
How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project
Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
Meguiar's 6" Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs
Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads now at Autogeek!
The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...
The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints
Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring



This would apply for removing "any" below surface defect, which includes sanding marks...

The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos


Please reply and let me know which direction you want to go in...


:)
 
Mike,
A quick question before I take advantage of the Meguiar's sale. I know that you have shown in the various threads on damp sanding a Flex 3401, Griots, Meguiar's, and the XP DA's, but can the damp sanding system be used with the Porter Cable 7424? I know that this doesn't have the power of a Flex (which I have) or any of the newer DA's. Or should I just use my Flex to damp sand? Also, would it be advisable to purchase both the 6" and the 3" damp sanding set ups?

Thank you,
Don

I have a buddy who has a Acura RSX that has some chemical etching on his hood, and polishing didn't help. Thought that damp sanding could help out.
 
Also, is there a need to get the sanding disks? From the description for the finishing disks it looks like that should take care of any issues I might be up against.
 
DonMTV said:
Mike,
A quick question before I take advantage of the Meguiar's sale. I know that you have shown in the various threads on damp sanding a Flex 3401, Griots, Meguiar's, and the XP DA's, but can the damp sanding system be used with the Porter Cable 7424? I know that this doesn't have the power of a Flex (which I have) or any of the newer DA's. Or should I just use my Flex to damp sand? Also, would it be advisable to purchase both the 6" and the 3" damp sanding set ups?

Thank you,
Don

I have a buddy who has a Acura RSX that has some chemical etching on his hood, and polishing didn't help. Thought that damp sanding could help out.
Click to expand...


Hi Don,

You don't want to actually "sand" with a Flex 3401 as the stroke is way to long, it's like 3/4 of an inch?

The Porter Cable DA Polisher, the Meguiar's DA Polishers and the Griot's Garage DA Polisher all have a 5/16" throw or "orbit" and that is much, much smaller than the orbit of the Flex 3401.

If you want to dampsand, then you want use either an air-powered DA sander or an electric DA sander as I show in this article...


Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


I'm also in the process of uploading the article to www.Dampsanding.com where you can then print it out if you choose.


:)
 
DonMTV said:
but can the damp sanding system be used with the Porter Cable 7424?
Click to expand...

Yes.

rotating a thin film or disc of sanding paper is easy to do and a first generation PC can do this just fine.


DonMTV said:
Also, is there a need to get the sanding disks? From
Click to expand...

No, not unless you're working on fresh paint and thicker than factory paint.

For factory finishes or cured, hardened custom paints, stick with the foam backed #1500 and #3000 discs.

:)
 
Hi Mike. I've read most of the threads listed above so I've pretty much scrapped the idea of sanding the whole car and only doing the worst areas. Is the Meguires kit listed on Autogeek which has the #105 and #205 in it appropriate for my needs in conjunction with PC 7424XP ?

Alternately how do the Pinnacle Twins kit and the Wolfgang duo kit match up against the Meguires set-up.

I have a 6 year old black s/s urethane painted car to practice on before tackling my newly painted red s/s urethane car so a few "goofs" will not be mind shattering .

Lastly, are the Surbuf pads available separately and do they come in different grades/colors ? If so which do I need for the Meguires #105.

Thanks, Bob
 
CLAF, I'm kinda new at this stuff and all I can say is if you have the means and opportunity to attend one of Mike's classes, do so. I was weary before using the DA and Rotary but after doing hands on work with Mike and being taught from his knowledge and experiences, there is no more hesitation at attacking different paint defects.
I HIGHLY recommend if you have the time and means to attend one of his classes. I guarantee you that you will leave there with a wealth of knowledge. In addition Mike and staff are great people and you'll have a lot of fun memories after spending the day with them...
 
Hi Mike,
I got all of my wet/damp sanding supplies today. Here is a question, should I start with the 3000 grit like I would use the least aggressive pad to take care of the issue on the paint? Or should I go 1500 grit first then 3000?

Thanks,
Don
 
DonMTV said:
Hi Mike,
I got all of my wet/damp sanding supplies today. Here is a question, should I start with the 3000 grit like I would use the least aggressive pad to take care of the issue on the paint? Or should I go 1500 grit first then 3000?

Thanks,
Don
Click to expand...

Depends upon what you're working on...

If you want to be safe and you're new to this then do a test spot using the #3000 and then buff our your sanding marks.

See how it goes, don't get in over your head.

You can always come back and sand some more...

:)
 
Mike,
How many times can you use one of the disks? Is there a cleaning and storage process for them after use?

Don
 
Is there anyone who might have an answer to my above question?

Thanks so much,
Don
 
DonMTV said:
Mike,
How many times can you use one of the disks? Is there a cleaning and storage process for them after use?

Don
Click to expand...

DonMTV said:
Is there anyone who might have an answer to my above question?

Thanks so much,
Don
Click to expand...

Am I reading the time stamps correctly? You posted at 11:00pm at night and then a follow-up at almost 1:00am?


I used 4 discs when I sanded down the 1969 El Camino and 2 discs when Matt and I sanded down a 1956 Chevy.

I went into detail about using the discs in this article, there's some meaty stuff in this article and instead of locating it and posting it here I'll let anyone interested read it and find it on their own.

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


:props:
 
Thanks Mike. I actually posted them a day apart. It actually dropped off the new posts pretty quick and I know that you have mentioned that sometimes they get missed.

Your articles are awesome on the damp sanding. I know there was mention of video in the articles, but I can't seem to find the video.

How do you clean and store them if there is still use in them?

Thank you for all you do,
Don
 
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