I've been polishing my car out. Using a Harbor Freight DA with Lake Country Hydro pads. Using the M105 with a Tangerine pad at 6 and M205 with a Cyan pad at 6. I can see a very subtle difference but if I run a piece of tape across after doing the M101 and apply the M205, I don't really see much of a dividing line. Now, don't get me wrong, I don't have much for scratches and such in my paint. Maybe that's why I'm not seeing much difference, that the M105 is doing most of the corrective work My car has a fair amount of orange peel (2006 Mustang GT) so maybe that has an impact as well. I'm wondering if there is something I can do further? Maybe I should be doing the M205 with a different pad, like the LC Crimson? A different polish and pad for that final pow??
Not seeing a huge difference between M105 and M205
- Thread starter mfergel
- Start date
cleanmycorolla
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- Apr 27, 2012
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Wait seems to me the 205 with the cyan pad, is the wrong choice, it should be cyan with 105, 205 with tangerine. Maybe that's why you don't have success?
AutowerxDetailing
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- Apr 10, 2012
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Use the least aggressive product to get the job done.
If M205 is producing good results just stick with that for the whole car. It sounds like there aren't a lot of swirls or deep scratches in the paint to begin with. If that's the case, that's great! M105 will typically leave some degree of haze (albeit not very much) that will then need to be refined with M205 and a finishing pad. If you can get the same results with only M205 you save yourself a step in the process.
If M205 is producing good results just stick with that for the whole car. It sounds like there aren't a lot of swirls or deep scratches in the paint to begin with. If that's the case, that's great! M105 will typically leave some degree of haze (albeit not very much) that will then need to be refined with M205 and a finishing pad. If you can get the same results with only M205 you save yourself a step in the process.
Pureshine
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- Dec 30, 2012
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What smart not harder as everyone says over and over do a test spot - Thread starter
- #5
Nuts. You're right. Not sure how I managed to screw that up. Well, shouldn't be too hard to refinish what I've done. Still looks better than what it did when I started.
I had similar experience where the M105 and M205 didn't seem much different. Trying to remove white epoxy overspray (small white dots). Clayed hood with Meguiar's MILD blue clay and applied M105 with Yellow Lake CCS Pad (DA 7424XP on 5-6). Finished with M205 and a BLACK/Gray Lake CCS pad. Still has some spots from the white overspray. How do I get these out ? Also I have some small nicks that did NOT fill in from either the M105 or M205.
Thinking now I should have used an ORANGE Lake CCS pad for the M205 instead of the Black ... but not sure that would have made much difference.
For next panel should I use the Lake Purple Wool Cutting Pad with M105 instead of a foam Pad ?
Any help appreciated
Thinking now I should have used an ORANGE Lake CCS pad for the M205 instead of the Black ... but not sure that would have made much difference.
For next panel should I use the Lake Purple Wool Cutting Pad with M105 instead of a foam Pad ?
Any help appreciated
conman1395
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- Nov 23, 2013
- 1,622
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When dealing with bad overspray, I use a more aggressive clay than mild. In fact, with really bad overspray, I whip out the Nanoskin Red DA discs. Sometimes I've found that using a compound and foam pad (or any type of pad foam/MF/foamed wool/etc) simply glides over strongly bonded overspray not unlike it would with orange peel.
Vegas Transplant
Active member
- Oct 11, 2011
- 4,447
- 3
May have to try a chemical alternative . Epoxy is a beast. Just saying.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/46320-severe-overspray-removal-help.html