Old Classic Car Paint Correction

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Toymachine2009

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So my neighbor just got an old Classic Car. The paint has a little oxidization on the roof and some minor swirling and water spots on the paint. Other than that paint is in pretty good condition...

I just got done giving it a wash and it looks a lot better already all cleaned up but I showed him the swirls and has minor scratches in the clear up front that I am pretty sure I can get out.

What I have to work with

Griots DA
M105 and M205 and HD UNO Yellow, Orange, White, Green, Red LC Pads

I am not sure if there is clear coat on this car due to its age. So my first test is going to be to take a MF towel put a Polish on it and rub it on the car and see if there is any paint transfer. If there is paint transfer there is obviously no clear coat and I have to approach this a different way. If there isn't paint transfer I will assume there is clear coat and I can just go about this the usual way.


IF there isn't clear coat can the paint still be polished? If so do I have to go about it a different route.

What I planned on doing is:

Wash (Citrus Guys Soap Concentraded to remove any Wax)
Clay Bar (With a mild clay bar to remove contaminents)
Polish Orange or Yellow Pad with M105
Polish White or Green Pad M205
Follow up with a Wax


Any help or input on this job or my step by step plan if needs any changing all the information I could get would be great!

DSCN0371.jpg

DSCN0372.jpg
 
Hand glaze #7 and let soak on the paint 24 hrs if its a solid no clear

Do a search in this forum Mike had a great article on mig #7
and old paint correction
 
Can a single stage paint have swirls in it though. This car had minor swirling all over it! Does that mean there was clear in it? Also stained water spots. I was reading on Megs #7 and its a glaze that will put the oils back into the paint to help with oxidization but what can I do to remove swirls and water spots.
 
Toymachine2009 said:
Can a single stage paint have swirls in it though. This car had minor swirling all over it! Does that mean there was clear in it? Also stained water spots. I was reading on Megs #7 and its a glaze that will put the oils back into the paint to help with oxidization but what can I do to remove swirls and water spots.
Click to expand...

Of course a Single Stage paint job can have swirls in it. Swirls are just fine scratches.

Do you know how old the paint is?

Can you post some close up shots of the paint showing the swirls and oxidation?

How much was paid for the car? Not trying to be nosy, just trying to get an idea of what we might be dealing with.
 
He does not know any history on the paint. I asked if this was original paint and he said he didnt know. He said if it was they did a good job because all door jams are painted and under the hood is painted.

But he is unsure if that is original paint or not. I can post some shots when I get a chance. Not sure how much was paid for the car I did not ask.

Its really not that badly oxidized as much as swirls IMO.

It seems like it has a clear to me but what do I know. I will do the test to see if it has it or not.
 
Read this article, written by AG's Mike Phillips.
AutoTraderClassics.com - Article Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 1
It's a long read and a rather involved process, but it just flat works. Polish first and buff later sounds contrary to everything I ever knew about paint reconditioning, but "feeding" old single-stage paint with the high oil content of Meguiar's #7, then buffing afterwards with Meguiar's M80 made a big difference in my case.

Bill
 
BillyJack said:
Read this article, written by AG's Mike Phillips.
AutoTraderClassics.com - Article Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 1
It's a long read and a rather involved process, but it just flat works. Polish first and buff later sounds contrary to everything I ever knew about paint reconditioning, but "feeding" old single-stage paint with the high oil content of Meguiar's #7, then buffing afterwards with Meguiar's M80 made a big difference in my case.

Bill
Click to expand...

:iagree:


Be warned, the above process is very involved and time consuming, but for this type of car, I would say that Mike's method is the way to go.
 
so let me see if I understand this. Correct me if I am wrong please.

Very First thing Clay bar!
2nd thing before using any type of abrasive polish or anything is Megs #7 to recondition and put oils back in the dried out paint correct?

Then after you have it reconditioned try to take out swirls with a light abrasive polish?

I understand the removing oxidizing and faded look to a much more glossier shine but this didnt say how to remove swirls.
 
There's a little more to the process, but you have the basics. Take the time to read Mike's articles thoroughly if you haven't yet and you'll be ready to roll. I know it sounds strange, but it definitely will work wonders on old, aged single stage paint. I didn't have any major correction to do, but I would still save the abrasive action until the paint was loaded with oil from the #7. You'll know you're there when the #7 just sits on top, and isn't getting absorbed into the paint. For me it took one application that soaked in overnight, then 3 more with only about an hour or less of soak time. i actually did one more #7 application after buffing.
I tried numerous polishes, compounds and glazes on the silver roof of my El Camino roof with no success. After following Mike's process I entered a local all-Chevy show and took first in class!
BillyJackElCamino.jpg


Bill
 
Okay.. I will forsure do a couple of applications of Megs #7 even though the paint isnt really THAT oxidized.
 
Have you confirmed that it is a single stage paint?
 
First, definitely confirm it's SS (single-stage) paint.
Pick a part of a single body panel as a test spot and give it a good clay job.
Forcefully work in some #7, using a MF cloth. I'm not as skilled as Mike, so I fold my cloth one more time into a 4" X 8" size. If you and the car owner are not satisfied with the difference that just one application makes, I'll be really surprised. I've been using this stuff for over 35 years and have suggested it to a lot of my buddies with vintage iron and old musclecars. Almost everybody gripes about the necessary effort, but nobody regrets it when they see the results.
Please report back after the weekend-Let us know what you think.

Bill
 
BillyJack said:
First, definitely confirm it's SS (single-stage) paint.
Pick a part of a single body panel as a test spot and give it a good clay job.
Forcefully work in some #7, using a MF cloth. I'm not as skilled as Mike, so I fold my cloth one more time into a 4" X 8" size. If you and the car owner are not satisfied with the difference that just one application makes, I'll be really surprised. I've been using this stuff for over 35 years and have suggested it to a lot of my buddies with vintage iron and old musclecars. Almost everybody gripes about the necessary effort, but nobody regrets it when they see the results.
Please report back after the weekend-Let us know what you think.

Bill
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will certainly report with an update and hopefully with pictures as well. One question though it doesn't talk about this in the article. The first application of Megs #7 it says to let sit for 24 hours or so. Can the car sit in the sun or should it be garaged or in the shade that entire time. I am just wondering if the sun will harden or cause any problems for removing this product after sitting on the car so long.
 
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