Old School Baby - Kerosene!

Ohio Detailing

Ohio Detailing

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According to a few websites, as well as my father's original car-customizing mentor back in the 60's... one of the most effective ways to maximize color brilliance and lubricity as well as very powerful spot-less properties when drying - I was looking for an insight into this long time practice before embarking on some flammable spot-less bliss of my own.

* Would a pure water based wash in a certain unknown (to me) ratio of isopropyl alcohol work better - or is Kerosene the gold standard?

According to Freedom Water LLC (just google'd them)
The Product: Instead of just copying the other “existing products”, we changed the characteristics a little bit. We replaced the kerosene, which is used in most waterless car washes, with water and alcohol, as its main ingredient. This eliminated the need to mask the harsh smell of kerosene with perfumes. We created a product that was truly "water-based"

I have researched that a generic amount of '1/2 cup per bucket' works best - bust that seems high to me. Considering the cleanliness of my car, and using the 'flood and shop-vac blow' method to dry quickly with MicroFiber clean up, what would be the optimal mixture of wash with Kerosene?​
 
Kerosene works. But you have to remember that when kerosene was used there were no quick detailing products like we have today. Kerosene was the old time predecessor of the quick detailer. It was great for putting a shine on neglected paint but did not last very long and attracted dust and dirt not to mention being flammable. Why use kerosene when there are so many good products that will do what kerosene used to do but better. Everyone is always looking for the easy fast shine, kerosene provided that in the 50s & 60s but today with so many one step waxes, wax as you dry products, and quick detailers, using kerosene is like brushing your teeth with a fuzzy stick.
 
with the advent of VOC regulations, I wonder if this is an ingredient let alone a major ingredient currently.
 
Kerosene (kerosine in scientific usage) it is a flammable hydrocarbon liquid solvent (derived from Greek keros - κηρός wax).It is commonly called paraffin in the UK.

This or any other hydrocarbon solvent is not something that should be used on automotive paint on a regular basis, as intimated there are safer more suitable car care products available
 
Thanks for the help guys - I think after taking everything in, the only question I have is if the Kerosene would strip any of the carnuba or other polishes I have applied? I know TOG said not to use it frequently, if it doesn't strip any of the surface protectants, I might use it once as a one-time refresher. But from here on out, it will be the quick-detail products etc.

PS: Does anyone have any advice or feedback on silicon products such as car-washes and quick detailers? I love that slick look and feel.
 
Im no Beakman, but I can only imagine Kerosene would strip your wax and anything else attached to your paint. If Dawn can do it......
 
True Dropkick... but maybe that would be good so I could start fresh, and compound from stage-1 to eliminate all the scratches.

Beakman... lol, nice reference!
 
I always Dawn wash when I know Im starting fresh. Dont get me wrong, I've only started fresh twice. Once for a Zaino job and another on my truck.

What if you Kerosene your future Mustang and she backfires?! :D
 
Dropkick Detail said:
Im no Beakman, but I can only imagine Kerosene would strip your wax and anything else attached to your paint. If Dawn can do it......
Click to expand...

"hydrocarbon liquid solvent" a solvent will inveriably clean whatever is on a paint surface
 
OK TOG, I'm going to use this after getting my car repainted on the rear quarter next week - to start from scratch. Is this the best way to start fresh? Mixing some Dawn with a little Kerosene and washing my car? Then I will start from square-1 with compound etc...
 
Paint Cleaning;
There are a number of products that will clean a paint film surface of existing products, DuPont’s DuPont PrepSol 3919 II (also for use when preparing surface for re-painting), detailer's clay, a 1:1 solution of distilled water and Isopropyl Alcohol, Klasse All-In-One, and most pre-wax cleaners.

With all cleaning products (especially when they contain solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

TOG (the old grey) true but harsh; TOGWT (the old grey whistle test) ;)
 
Why use kero, it won't do a damn thing on clears, will strip all wax and sealant and may dry out the paint over time

OH and not all detail sprays/ spray sealants contain silicone
 
Mr Dream Machines said:
Why use kero, it won't do a damn thing on clears, will strip all wax and sealant and may dry out the paint over time
:iagree:
OH and not all detail sprays/ spray sealants contain silicone
Click to expand...

Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) as most are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily adaptable to a spray formula. To be efficient they need to be emulsified to work as a spray, to facilitate this they need to use an emulsion of silicone oils and water.
 
Not these mate, ,mine are machine applyable, can go on anything on a car, make working time of polishes longer and have incredible cleaning power

Also they are body shop safe, paintable and totally nature based
 
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I never use QD's with wax, it's an oxymoron in my opinion. I always use something like Wizard's, or another product with no wax.

Admittedly, I am confused... but I think I'm just going to end up using ONE TIME ONLY next week: Dawn + Kerosene to strip my car's wax, and start from square-1.
 
Alcohol and water 50/50 works great or meguiars body solvent.I would leave the kerosene for heaters.
 
Ok, sounds good... by alcohol, I know it's an amateur question - do you mean regular alcohol from the pharmacy that you pour on cuts, or Jack Daniel's, lol, let me know which form?
 
after you wash your car - clay bar it - then wash it again - clay barring will remove some of those nibs of dirt and sand or sap or rail dust that you don't want to spread around on the paint when you polish the car. a regular wash won't dislodge some of those critters. if you have never clayed the car before, it definitely needs it.:cool:
 
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