Opti-Coat Wheels & Car Weekend Project

crxman2010

crxman2010

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So I am getting ready to remove my wheels this weekend and Opti-Coat the wheels but have a couple questions.

First off for cleaning the wheels, I am going to start with Opti Power Clean at a 3:1 dilution, and go stronger if needed. They aren't very dirty with only 80 miles on the car. If the OPC gets everything off the wheel, do I need to follow up with anything else to prep the wheel for Opti-Coat other than a good rinse? I have read mixed reports on whether or not OPC can be used instead of IPA solution or Griots Paint Prep.

I have read that you can reuse the applicator and MF towels if you clean them before allowing them to dry. Can I just use 3:1 OPC, strong mix of OPC, or something like DP Pad Rejuvenation?

Going forward, when I wash my vehicle, would I need to worry about getting OPC 3:1 or straight OPC on the wheels when I am scrubbing the tires? From what I have read, this will cause no harm but wanted to double check.


I have yet to decide whether or not I will put Opti-Coat the paint, and the reason I am debating it is being able to wax the car later, for looks and relaxation ;). In the winter the car is a daily driver but in the summer it is normally a garage queen of sorts.
Anyone have experience applying Opti-Seal or something like P21s carnauba wax or Liquid Souveran over OC? When it is said wax won't last as long over OC, are we talking about first rain, half as long, the product is going to wipe off completely upon being buffed??
I really like the idea of adding an extra hard coat to protect the paint but I also enjoy putting different LSPs on the car when it is sitting around looking pretty.

What has been anyone experience with OC over chip guard? How does it look? How does it hold up with the soft center between the clear coat and OC? My entire Front end has a clear bra to avoid seams in areas with no body lines (full bumper, hood, fenders, and rockers...) and from my previous car, this stuff swirls very easy, easier than Acura's paint.

And I do have any question on actual application, when dealing with something like a roof where it has to be worked from both sides, how do you deal with it? Do as much as you can from one side and move to the other side immediately and overlap?

It will be my first new ride since inhaling to many wax fumes (detail crazy) if you were to ask the wife so any thoughts are appreciated.


Michael
2012 Acura TL Graphite Luster 6MT AWD
 
crxman2010 said:
If the OPC gets everything off the wheel, do I need to follow up with anything else to prep the wheel for Opti-Coat other than a good rinse?
Click to expand...

You may want to clay and polish. The cleaner the surface, the better the result.

crxman2010 said:
Can I just use 3:1 OPC, strong mix of OPC, or something like DP Pad Rejuvenation??
Click to expand...

Water alone will prevent OC from hardening, so you can use what you mentioned or just soak them in water until you have time to wash if you like.

crxman2010 said:
Going forward, when I wash my vehicle, would I need to worry about getting OPC 3:1 or straight OPC on the wheels when I am scrubbing the tires? From what I have read, this will cause no harm but wanted to double check.
Click to expand...

After a few days, no chemical that won't strip paint will remove OC.


crxman2010 said:
Anyone have experience applying Opti-Seal or something like P21s carnauba wax or Liquid Souveran over OC? When it is said wax won't last as long over OC, are we talking about first rain, half as long, the product is going to wipe off completely upon being buffed??
Click to expand...

About a month is the longest I've seen anything last.

crxman2010 said:
What has been anyone experience with OC over chip guard? How does it look? How does it hold up with the soft center between the clear coat and OC? My entire Front end has a clear bra to avoid seams in areas with no body lines (full bumper, hood, fenders, and rockers...) and from my previous car, this stuff swirls very easy, easier than Acura's paint.
Click to expand...

It works well over clear bra material and actually has a slight restorative effect.

crxman2010 said:
And I do have any question on actual application, when dealing with something like a roof where it has to be worked from both sides, how do you deal with it? Do as much as you can from one side and move to the other side immediately and overlap?
Click to expand...

There will be no lines/problems if application is perfomed within a reasonable amount of time up to an hour or so.
 
Regarding the Claying and Polishing of the wheels, will do on the clay, already have some set aside to no longer be used on the paint. But regarding the polish, would Poli-Seal or Polish II work? (it is what I have on hand) I had not given much thought to polishing the wheels and how paint polish would work on the wheel coating.

If I use Poli-Seal or Polish II, assuming they would work, just go back over the wheel with OPC 3:1 to remove residue before OC?

As always Chris, Thanks.
 
I'm going to Opti-coat my summer wheels really soon to, as soon as I get this nail hole plugged in one of the tires. But my process is going to be wash, IronX, clay, wash, IPA and I think it should be good from there. Good luck. Keep us updated with how it turns out!
 
crxman2010 said:
If I use Poli-Seal or Polish II, assuming they would work, just go back over the wheel with OPC 3:1 to remove residue before OC?
Click to expand...

Use Polish II as Poliseal will leave protection behind that you will just have to remove. Polish II residue can be removed with a damp MF and that is sufficient before OC application. Our stuff works together.
 
I would just hit the wheels with Optimum Polish or Finish since they are so new. If you have the latest version of them simply wipe them down with water after you're done and you're good to go. Having a power ball/cone can be helpful too! ;)


Edit: Chris beat me by 30 seconds! :D
 
So for the wheels:
Scrub them with OPC.
Clay the wheels with ONR.
Polish wheels with Polish II and CCS White Hand Applicator.
Rinse wheels with water and MF.
Apply OptiCoat.

Seems the rinse stage is the only one not using some sort of Optimum Product :).

The one question I still had from up top was regarding the use of OPC at 3:1 dilution instead of IPA wipe down? Or would I need to create a 20% IPA or use Griots Paint Prep?

If I go ahead with Opti-Coating the car itself, would Polish II be enough of a finishing polishing with a white applicator (these) for a finishing polish prior to opti-coat with water wipe down? I also have the red on hand. I rinsed the dust off it the other day and blow dried it best I could, and sitting out in the sun I could not find any swirling to speak of. Will wash it again and check in the sun/led/xenon but if I cannot find anything to correct, I do not plan on getting the DA out.

Paint:
The car at no point should have even been sealed, waxed, polished at this point. Best way to verify this to clean the car, clean part of panel with OPC 3:1 and then respray to check for different beading?
Polish II
Water Rinse
Opti-Coat
 
crxman2010 said:
The one question I still had from up top was regarding the use of OPC at 3:1 dilution instead of IPA wipe down? Or would I need to create a 20% IPA or use Griots Paint Prep?
Click to expand...

The reason we have not brought a prep solution to market is because you don't need one when using our line. You can simply remove the Polish II residue with a damp MF and go straight to OC with no other wipedown. If you choose to use Power Clean, that's fine but it needs to be rinsed...and when dry you can go straight to OC with no need for IPA.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
The reason we have not brought a prep solution to market is because you don't need one when using our line. You can simply remove the Polish II residue with a damp MF and go straight to OC with no other wipedown. If you choose to use Power Clean, that's fine but it needs to be rinsed...and when dry you can go straight to OC with no need for IPA.
Click to expand...
I have used this combo on the last two cars I did with great results.
No prep at all!
 
Chris@Optimum said:
The reason we have not brought a prep solution to market is because you don't need one when using our line. You can simply remove the Polish II residue with a damp MF and go straight to OC with no other wipedown. If you choose to use Power Clean, that's fine but it needs to be rinsed...and when dry you can go straight to OC with no need for IPA.
Click to expand...

So treat OPC just like Polish II, water rinse after use and good to go, that is what I wanted to verify, not because I will be using it so much as a paint prep but like on the wheels a cleaning agent and I wanted to OPC followed by Pollish II and than water rinse to Opti-Coat if there should have been a IPA wipe down.

Thanks guys.
 
OPC - rinse - polish - damp microfiber wipe - dry microfiber wipe - Opti Coat


Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
 
My rims are light in color, approximately sliver, should I be able see opti-coat flash??? garage is about 60-65 degree. Coated the wheel face and the barrel, but never really saw anything flash, did once get a slightly purple color on the Acura symbol which wiped right off, assuming that was a high spot created by the annoying little symbol.

On a side note, well trying to cover all of the wheel pattern, at times the applicator (small yellow foam thingy) would drag heavily over a spot, would this be a result of working it for too long?

Thanks

Two wheel done, entire car polished and ready for opti-coat as well. Opted to do the wheels first where there is currently no natural light available to aid in the application.
 
Wheels done.

After doing that, prior to doing the paint tomorrow, I guess my questions would be:

If you do not see it flash are you using too little or just at the disadvantage of available light? Have an array of over head T8s and an LED flashlight (Fenix LD40).

How smooth should the applicator flow over the paint: At times the applicator had some drag and I could not necessarily see OC go on and at times it moved very smoothly but I could see the initial application of OC until I crossed over the area a second time with the applicator. (Again, all done in doors) So should the applicator glide silky smooth? If it is dragging do I not have enough on the pad? I wasn't doing a full X (priming) on the pad were the wheel designed didn't allow for complete use of the pad surface.

When OC feels like it is starting to grab the applicator would that be a good sign I have worked the area too long?
 
Thank you for the video link.

After we watched the video we started applying it a little thicker so you could see streaks to insure coverage and than automatically followed it up with a soft wipe, gave results that appear as good much quicker than trying to apply the "right" amount that would not cause streaking....

Maybe used 4-6cc to do the entire car (no glass) and the wheels.

Most definitely added a shine to the car immediately giving it a candied look which I was expecting. Looks great on the paint for clarity and reflection and more impressive, made the clear bra look considerably more like paint (more reflective and clear).

Will get a full write up and pictures up after recovery (some typing, hopefully more pictures than words).
 
crxman2010 said:
Thank you for the video link.

After we watched the video we started applying it a little thicker so you could see streaks to insure coverage and than automatically followed it up with a soft wipe, gave results that appear as good much quicker than trying to apply the "right" amount that would not cause streaking....

Maybe used 4-6cc to do the entire car (no glass) and the wheels.

Most definitely added a shine to the car immediately giving it a candied look which I was expecting. Looks great on the paint for clarity and reflection and more impressive, made the clear bra look considerably more like paint (more reflective and clear).

Will get a full write up and pictures up after recovery (some typing, hopefully more pictures than words).
Click to expand...

No problem. :props:


Sounds like you used just the right amount IMO. I don't like when the applicator gets grabby and squeaky from the lack of product. I feel that only increases the chances for marring.
 
Just wanted to add one more thing tonight regarding previous post, when I said we started applying it a little thicker, I mean over the course of an entire door, I might have had 3-6 "high spots" which normally occurred in areas the pad would have been changing direction.

Whereas in the first couple panels, we probably averaged less than 1 high spot per panel but had concerns that it was being put on maybe too thin and the grabby applicator only added to the woes.

For hitting the high spots, I would give the OC about 1-2 minutes to setup and then with very little pressure, just slightly more than the weight of the towel, I would wipe over the panel. Between the car being a dark color and florescent lights all about, it very easy to see the high spots and this gentle pass on the panel made the streaking disappear instantaneously.
 
So every day after work it has been cloudy or dark so far.... I want that sun to come out so I can get some decent pictures.

How long do I have to wait to use something like speed shine or ONR QD on the Opti-Coat? The car has been left to "cure" and has developed a nice layer of non shining dust.
 
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