optimum hyper compound - how to clean buffing pad?

87rx7chick

87rx7chick

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optimum products are known for their deep polish and lovely finishes. i love using their products.

tonight we used optimum hyper compound, with a Flex buffer, and a Foamed Wool buffing pad on single stage enamel stock white paint.

i have this issue with the lake country pads as well.

after buffing, when i go to clean the pad it takes a long while to remove all the oily compound.

i use dish soap and hot water to work into the pad, it takes about 10 min to "almost" clean it all the way. i dont have a pressure washer and i dont have an air compressor to wash this. i dont want to put it in my clothes washer because this product is very oily.

works great, ZERO dusting, but it leaves the pads very oily.

i've used Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner but it doesnt seem to cut threw the oil enough.

what would you recommend? would upgrading to dawn soap make a difference then using off name brand dish soap?

heres a picture of my bf, ty buffing the hood of his rx7. i was teaching him how to use the flex buffer
313686_233158656739922_100001373687583_548664_590874397_n.jpg
 
Throw 'em in the washing machine with hot water and detergent after pretreating, PFW comes out like new. Wipe down the inside of the machine afterwards with a dab of Shout or other pretreat spot cleaner and run an empty load through with hot water to remove any residue before throwing in a load of clothes. All my pads come out clean as a whistle although the Hyper spray polish/compound colors do tend to stain.

TL
 
Washing machine or GG pad washer are the easiest.


Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
 
Snappy a concentrated cleaner that releases wax and polish from the foam or wool fibers with just a few minutes of soaking
 
TLMitchell said:
Throw 'em in the washing machine with hot water and detergent after pretreating, PFW comes out like new. Wipe down the inside of the machine afterwards with a dab of Shout or other pretreat spot cleaner and run an empty load through with hot water to remove any residue before throwing in a load of clothes. All my pads come out clean as a whistle although the Hyper spray polish/compound colors do tend to stain.

TL
Click to expand...
i paid about 1000$ for my awesome washer, im not going to toss oily buffing pads in it! why couldnt i just use detergent and hot water in my sink? i have tried this btw it takes forever for it to come clean, the same as using dish soap.


Chris@Optimum said:
Washing machine or GG pad washer are the easiest.


Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
Click to expand...
gg?
Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
this? thats like 130 bux, i do this as a hobby, i just need something to degrease/de-wax the pads after use with out tossing them in my fancy washing machine =/
dougaross said:
Snappy a concentrated cleaner that releases wax and polish from the foam or wool fibers with just a few minutes of soaking
Click to expand...

i'll try this, does it cause u to cough like the Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner does? theres something in the pinnacle cleaner that just does not agree with me, i spritz it and i just cough from the fumes. it didnt even work that great.


also, when i use LC foam pads with 105 and or 205 , after cleaning and drying, they are extremely dusty the next time i use them i would LOVE an answer how to properly clean the pads with out the GG bucket or tossing them in my expensive clothes washer. would it be best to just bring them to a self serve car wash and using a power spray? or would this rip apart the foam?


some one please chime in with more detail answers that dont include a clothes washer or expensive specialty cleaning tools

(im buying snappy clean pad cleaner but i'd like some more advice)
 
Try Dawn Power Dissolver. Only place that I can find it is at Walmart.
 
An APC works good. I found OPC(Optimum power clean) works really good. Spray liberally, let soak about 5 min then scrub and rinse. Goop hand cleaner also works well.
 
Cut down a five gallon bucket throw in a Grit Guard fill your cleaning solution to just level with the Grit Guard insert your buffer and run on speed 2. This will give your pad something to agitate against and help break down the oils.

This is similar (kind of) to the Grit Guard System but costs around $10.00 to put together.
 
It looks like you're using a purple wool foam pad on a 3401? I've wanted to get one and wondered if you can get good results. Do you mind sharing your thoughts and experience with it?
 
87rx7chick said:
i paid about 1000$ for my awesome washer, im not going to toss oily buffing pads in it!
Click to expand...

I've got one of those fancy-shmancy, big bucks washers too. I bought it to use to clean things. Yes, it's primarily used for clothes and it's important not to have any residual contaminents leftover. But I use it as a tool to clean things and take appropriate steps to prevent contamination. The machine doesn't care what's in it, it's unaffected save for some residue left in the tub, kinda like a bathtub ring. Do you wash MFs in the washing machine after a detail? Polish and wax/sealant residue in those too...

After I wash MFs, pads, oily greasy rags (gasp!) or whatever I wipe the drum down with a pre-wash spray to remove everything visible. Then I do an empty load with hot water, a stout detergent and a bit of bleach. The first load afterwards is usually towels or sheets just in case. I've never seen a hint or as much as a scent of anything leftover from washing detailing materials. As a hobbyist detailer how often are you going to need to do this? Coupla times a year?

87rx7chick said:
why couldnt i just use detergent and hot water in my sink? i have tried this btw it takes forever for it to come clean, the same as using dish soap.
Click to expand...

There ya go, it takes forever and the results may be sub par. Washing machines were made specifically to clean things. The new whiz bang machines with their scientifically developed agitation and multiple cycles clean everything better and more efficiently than was ever possible with their predecessors. Other than the expense of a dedicated pad washer throwing pads in the washer is the most effective and efficient cleaning method. I've been doing it for decades and none of my machines has ever been worse for the experience.

Different strokes...

TL
 
skipper1 said:
It looks like you're using a purple wool foam pad on a 3401? I've wanted to get one and wondered if you can get good results. Do you mind sharing your thoughts and experience with it?
Click to expand...

I'm not the OP but I've used PFW on a 3401 as well as every other DA and with a rotary. IME, like MF pads, you need to keep them clean between passes or they clog and get matted. Brush cleaning or a gentle spurring fluffs 'em right back up. You'll want a couple as eventually they don't fluff up as well and it's time for a fresh pad.

PFW cuts as well or better than most foam cutting pads yet have the capability to finish very well. I've used them with 105 on light colors with big pressure to remove defects then lighter pressure for a few passes for finishing. On white or very light colors I was able to go straight to LSP with them.

Very versatile pad with many uses. And they come out of the washing machine fluffy and like new. :D

TL
 
TL hit the nail on the head. If I only have a couple of pads they go to the kitchen sink with Dawn detergent. Any more than that its on to the washing machine.
On a second note when instructing the bf to polish , you might have him pick up the cord off of the panel and lay it across his shoulder.
 
I have a front load washer and the two times that I have washed the pads and mf towels in the washer my wife has complained about stains in the clothes. I didn't believe her because I had run two hot/clean cycles with bleach. Sure enough she showed me the stains. I had previously soaked the pads and towels in a bucket with dawn and pre-rinsed the pads with dawn. I had used UC, Griots #3, Duragloss 501 and Collinite 845. This last time after washing the pads I sprayed the washer with Griots Paint Prep twice and ran two hot/clean cycles with bleach and the clothes still got stained. I did the Paint Prep and bleach cycle again and the clothes still were getting stained. Two days ago I twice sprayed the dryer with Paint Prep. I am hoping that the washer is clean and that the dryer was the problem. I'll find out tomorrow. I don't intend to wash any mre pads in the washer.
 
Capa1970 said:
Two days ago I twice sprayed the dryer with Paint Prep. I am hoping that the washer is clean and that the dryer was the problem.
Click to expand...

:doh:

Didn't mention the dryer because I air-dry pads, I only throw MFs in on low/no heat. It stands to reason that a dryer might accumulate some residue and need a wipe down as well.

TL
 
TLMitchell said:
:doh:

Didn't mention the dryer because I air-dry pads, I only throw MFs in on low/no heat. It stands to reason that a dryer might accumulate some residue and need a wipe down as well.

TL
Click to expand...

Hopefully you are right about the dryer. I also air dry with my GG the pads.
 
After washing pads in the washer, I take a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol and spray it then wipe it down with a terry towel.

For drying, I put the pads on cooling racks on top of the refrigerator where it's a little warmer.
 
cutter said:
Cut down a five gallon bucket throw in a Grit Guard fill your cleaning solution to just level with the Grit Guard insert your buffer and run on speed 2. This will give your pad something to agitate against and help break down the oils.

This is similar (kind of) to the Grit Guard System but costs around $10.00 to put together.
Click to expand...

Post some pics !
 
Reviving an old thread as used the Hyper Compound today on a yellow hex pad and it is stained blue. I soaked it in Meg's super degreaser and then washed with dawn. Looks like the compound is washed off but the blue color stain just won't go. I wonder why would a great company like Optimum add a color like that. I never had any trouble washing pads after using M105.
 
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