Orange Peel Before and After

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Orange Peel Before and After



I took before and after pictures to show the orange peel before we sanded and buffed and after we sanded and buffed.


Before


Orange Peel
I opened the garage bay door as it puts a strip of sunlight shining through the garage onto the large flat panel on the side and highlights the orange peel texture common to new/custom paint jobs.

Here you can see the garage bay door open...

Here you can see the orange peel...

I adjusted a camera setting to darken the shot...

Looks like the texture on the peel of an orange - See the yellow pole in the reflection?

It's this pole - if we do the job right, when the Model A comes back we'll take after shots and we should see dramatically more clear and defined reflections.

After

 

[Desertnate]

Dramatic difference.

How much clear coat is lost when wet sanding a vehicle like this? I could see quite a bit being abraded away between a sanding step (or two) and the following compounding/polishing to properly correct the paint. Is it safe to assume any correction work after this point will have to be very light?

 

[LEDetailing]

Mike,

Awesome important. Looks so much better.

That would make a great billboard for some custom airbrushed Autogeek advertising on the rear panels. I think you should push for a new company car. Would look great at all the events you go to and host

Bob

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Dramatic difference.

How much clear coat is lost when wet sanding a vehicle like this?

Good question but just to note - this streetrod was painted with a single stage catalyzed urethane paint system - not a catalyzed basecoat/clearcoat urethane paint system. So it's modern paint technology but not a clearcoat system. My buddy Mike won't paint cars with clearcoats because it's the simple way to avoid clearcoat failure. Kind of smart on his part.

I could see quite a bit being abraded away between a sanding step (or two) and the following compounding/polishing to properly correct the paint.

In the old days guys started with #800 grit and worked up to #1500 and then compounded with rocks-in-a-bottle caveman compounds.

We used the best stuff on the market as it relates to hand sanding and machine sanding tools. Sure a person could argue that 3M Trizact #3000 and #5000 are higher in quality than Mirka Abralon but still - in "context" to wet sanding history, we're using top notch stuff and what this means in the BIG PICTURE is we can do the same work like they did in the old days while leaving more paint on the car to last over the service life of the car.

The above is some deep stuff that I cover in my classes.

Is it safe to assume any correction work after this point will have to be very light?

Good question and the answer is "yes" and this would apply to this car or any car as in keeping with "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" philosophy.


The bigger picture is the future owner of this car and the owners of all cars should "wash" and "dry" and "touch" their car's paint in ways that don't put deep scratches in - in the first place - and then they won't need to compound.


Great questions - thank you for asking.

 

[Cruzscarwash]

not sure what else to say besides AMAZING!!!

 

[axel06]

Great job Mike and to the team as well, outstanding.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

not sure what else to say besides AMAZING!!!

Thank you sir.... had a lot of help with this project...

Great job Mike and to the team as well, outstanding.

Thanks Axel.


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