Overheated BP with PCXP

quiksilver39

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I was about 80% finish with my first coat on an Accord when the compound was forming a paste when applied to the car. I noticed that my pad (5.5" Flat Pad) and BP (5" LC) was extremely hot. I'm not too sure if it's because I use too much product... but after every panel, I would clean my pad on the fly...

Does anyone else have this problem? How do you control the heat of the backing plate and pad? Should I use another set so that the first set could cool off? Any advise would be great!

Mahalo
 
I was about 80% finish with my first coat on an Accord when the compound was forming a paste when applied to the car. I noticed that my pad (5.5" Flat Pad) and BP (5" LC) was extremely hot. I'm not too sure if it's because I use too much product... but after every panel, I would clean my pad on the fly...

Does anyone else have this problem? How do you control the heat of the backing plate and pad? Should I use another set so that the first set could cool off? Any advise would be great!

Mahalo

I am seeing this problem more and more. Are you using the KBM alot :buffing:
 
I was about 80% finish with my first coat on an Accord when the compound was forming a paste when applied to the car. I noticed that my pad (5.5" Flat Pad) and BP (5" LC) was extremely hot. I'm not too sure if it's because I use too much product... but after every panel, I would clean my pad on the fly...

Does anyone else have this problem? How do you control the heat of the backing plate and pad? Should I use another set so that the first set could cool off? Any advise would be great!

Mahalo

Did you install the washer when you first got the machine, it is sometimes linked to overheating ?? Also is screw tight to make sure backing plate has no play ??

I am seeing this problem more and more. Are you using the KBM alot :buffing:

It does seem like more and more buffer failures, pad failures, and overheating are being noticed as of late. The correlation to KBM is certainly one to note and appears justified.
 
I am seeing this problem more and more. Are you using the KBM alot :buffing:

After reading, yes. :xyxthumbs:

I had no problem with the 6.5" CCS Pads (due to it being thicker than the 5.5") but after a while when the pad was saturated with product, it didn't have enough power to spin. After reading some posts, others recommended the 5.5"...

Did you install the washer when you first got the machine, it is sometimes linked to overheating ?? Also is screw tight to make sure backing plate has no play ??

Yes, the washer is installed however it is on tight. Should I loosen the pressure?
 
Are you trying to do the whole car with one pad?

I used a 5.5" Orange Flat Pad and 4" Orange Spot Buff for compounding, but only the 5.5" Flat Pad overheated on me... granted the Spot Buffs are thick like the 6.5" pads, so that could be a reason why...???

Planning on using the same sizes for RED... WHITE... and BLUE;) (proud to be an American... sorry, hahaha...) for Polish, Wax and Sealant.

Would you recommend using more than one pad?
 
It does seem like more and more buffer failures, pad failures, and overheating are being noticed as of late. The correlation to KBM is certainly one to note and appears justified.

How exactly does the KBM differ from what Mike teaches and why would it cause backing pads to melt?

Jenn
 
How exactly does the KBM differ from what Mike teaches and why would it cause backing pads to melt?

Jenn

I'm not killrwheels, but my therory is the constant pressure being applied causes the unit to heat up more then it was intended for :hungry:
 
It is from the excessive pressure being applied to the tool when used which is causing the heat. Just like I said when this so called method first appeared it was going to cause this problem, but some wanted to argue and look what happened.Im the MAN

People are pushing the da's behind what it was designed to do and blaming the tool. The da is just a polisher, very little pressure if any should be applied to the tool otherwise these problems are/will going to occur. I am not saying the da's can not do decent work, but it takes the correct pad and polish combo, but in the end people are pushing the da's past what they are really designed to do. So in the end you are going to have all these problems that basically were caused by the user of the tool, not the tool itself.
 
I didn't think I was adding pressure but then again, it happened to me on the vertical panels so I'm probably applying too much pressure while holding the tool to paint.

Mahalo for all of your feed back!
 
It is from the excessive pressure being applied to the tool when used which is causing the heat. Just like I said when this so called method first appeared it was going to cause this problem, but some wanted to argue and look what happened.Im the MAN

People are pushing the da's behind what it was designed to do and blaming the tool. The da is just a polisher, very little pressure if any should be applied to the tool otherwise these problems are/will going to occur. I am not saying the da's can not do decent work, but it takes the correct pad and polish combo, but in the end people are pushing the da's past what they are really designed to do. So in the end you are going to have all these problems that basically were caused by the user of the tool, not the tool itself.

Nice, so now your calling me a tool...Tell me something I don't already know :laughing:

FWIW get a Griots DA. They have the lifetime warranty you know :applause:
 
Nice, so now your calling me a tool...Tell me something I don't already know :laughing:

FWIW get a Griots DA. They have the lifetime warranty you know :applause:

And your point-lol. How"s it going Sausage. Still waiting on you to help me finish staining my fence.
 
And your point-lol. How"s it going Sausage. Still waiting on you to help me finish staining my fence.

Everything is just lovely here :props:

As for that fence staining...I thought we agreed you would send me that new Fien rotary to play with for a couple of weeks and in turn I would drive up and give you a helping hand with your fence :cheers:

I must warn however, I start my days at 04:30 SHARP. NO EXCEPTIONS :rulez:
 
Everything is just lovely here :props:

As for that fence staining...I thought we agreed you would send me that new Fien rotary to play with for a couple of weeks and in turn I would drive up and give you a helping hand with your fence :cheers:

I must warn however, I start my days at 04:30 SHARP. NO EXCEPTIONS :rulez:

Since you start that early I will just stay up. The funny thing is you said you were going to help before you even knew I had the Fein. The stain and brushes are still waiting on you and the fine from the HOA-lol.
 
It is from the excessive pressure being applied to the tool when used which is causing the heat. Just like I said when this so called method first appeared it was going to cause this problem, but some wanted to argue and look what happened.Im the MAN

People are pushing the da's behind what it was designed to do and blaming the tool. The da is just a polisher, very little pressure if any should be applied to the tool otherwise these problems are/will going to occur. I am not saying the da's can not do decent work, but it takes the correct pad and polish combo, but in the end people are pushing the da's past what they are really designed to do. So in the end you are going to have all these problems that basically were caused by the user of the tool, not the tool itself.
:iagree:Some have no problems with their backing plates using KBM, but that's because of the backing plate itself. Some of the earlier LC plates could not take the heat. I agree with Dana that the da's were not meant to be used in this manner. After all it was designed to be a sander.
 
Hey I have gotten results from using A LOT of pressure on my DA... but i will be the first to tell you i melted the center out of many of my CCS pads too so that the middle is dimpled :)... after see that pad destruction I made the mental decision to learn the rotary... Pads aint cheap
 
The funny thing is you said you were going to help before you even knew I had the Fein.

You need to learn that I already know what your thinking/planning even before you do :coolgleam:

:iagree:Some have no problems with their backing plates using KBM, but that's because of the backing plate itself. Some of the earlier LC plates could not take the heat. I agree with Dana that the da's were not meant to be used in this manner. After all it was designed to be a sander.

First off, if you'll look back on page 1, I gave the answer first. Dana is just riding my coatails :laughing:

Second, the BP might not explode on some, but the machine will most certainally give out prematurally. This machine was not designed to be used in this manner. However, if you are acheiving the results your looking for using the KBM them just plan on the lifespan of your PC to be cut short. Consider it a cost of doing business :buffing:
 
I might as well chime in too...

From this thread back in April,

Strange Griot's DA problems (new version)...


Also, when polishing on speed 6, the polisher really heats up the pad and it "swells" towards the middle. Why?


Pushing the tool and the pad to their limit?

Some jobs are best done with a rotary buffer. The trend I've noticed over the last 8 years online is that more and more people purchase DA Polishers because they're gentle and safe and then push the envelope more and more as to what they expect the tool to do.

Now with a more powerful tool, the Griot's Garage 6" ROP, the next weak link is going to be backing plates and pads.

We've already seen two companies re-design their backing plates to withstand more rigorous use. We've seen foam pad manufactures improve their adhesive technology to withstand more heat, chemical interaction and the violent oscillating action created by DA Polishers.

Here's a question, is it possible there isn't a problem with backing plates and pads, but instead, maybe we've reached the point where we're starting to reach the limit as to what technology can provide?

Just some food for thought...

There's be a very strong trend towards using 5.5" pads on DA Polishers on this forum, one reason could be I recommend them a lot because I know that all three of the DA polishers we sell can keep them rotating better than the larger 6.5 and 7" pads and it's when the pad is rotating that it removes swirls and scratches, another way of saying this is in order to remove swirls and scratches you need to remove a little paint and paint is removed best when the pad is rotating, not just "jiggling" or vibrating.

Here's the deal... because the 5.5 inch pads are smaller in diameter, and thinner, there is less foam substance to absorb and dissipate heat, so as you press on the polisher and generate heat over time it's going to affect a smaller pad more than a larger pad, this is true for 4" spot repair pads also...

Here's some pictures to help show the differences...

These are 6.5" and 5.5" Lake Country, flat light orange foam cutting pads...

SizeDiff001.jpg


SizeDiff002.jpg


SizeDiff003.jpg


SizeDiff004.jpg


:)
 
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