When compounding oxidation off the hull of a boat is its bad enough do you have to damp sand the gelcoat or can you cut though it with a good quality heavy compound
To answer your question....
If the oxidation is deep, that is not just on the surface but goes deep into the pigmented layer of polyester resin called "gel-coat", then it's faster, easier and more effective to machine sand off the dead, oxidized gel-coat than it is to PUSH HARD for hours against the hull using a rotary buffer.
I cover this in-depth in my boat detailing how-to book on page 70 and 71 and then the rest of that chapter shows how to do both methods.
Here's your boat picture,
If you have a rotary buffer then I'd recommend using the push hard for hours method as hand or machine sanding a boat isn't something most people should tackle without some experience and/or guidance.
You're going to want an aggressive wool cutting pad and a heavy cutting compound. For anyone that has read any of my posts over the years you'll notice I ALWAYS stress the importance of using GREAT ABRASIVE TECHNOLOGY when buffing out clearcoats but in reality it's important for anything that's important to you.
I'd get a couple of quarts of the
Marine 31 Captain’s One-Step Compound & Polish.
Cut the boat hard with this compound and you'll remove the oxidation and only leave behind hologram scratches from the FIBERS of the wool pad. You can then easily remove the holograms by switching over to a foam cutting pad and then use a good one-step cleaner/wax or if you want to do more steps hit the boat with a polish and then wax.
A one-step cleaner/wax will remove the hologram scratches and leave the boat protected - that makes this boat detailing project a 2-step process
--> Compound then cleaner/wax.
A three step would be,
Compound, polish and then wax
A 4-step would be,
Compound, polish, chemically strip and the coat
I'm happy to walk you through whatever process you want to use, just let me know...
