Pad recomendations for Flex 3401 & WG products?

Demonizer

New member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Hi Guys -
Have a black car & am trying to figure out what color pads to get. I want to keep my detaining set up simple with out to many different pads & stuff - basically get a "system" & stick to it - One product line maybe 2 "colors" of pads? Im not a detailer, just a hobbyist that wants to maintain my car myself with out to much "fuss" & dont want to end up with pads I dont need.

PRODUCTS I have been using:
Wolfgang Line: Uber compound, Total Swirl Remover, Finish Glaze & Deep Gloss Sealant.

PAINT CONDITION:
great shape, painted last year, in garage since for assembly. Minor swirls & clouds from the wetsand & buff at the paint shop + some light scratches from assembly.

Current APPLICATION METHOD:
So far just using the Uber, TSR, FG & SGPS by hand - using soft terry cloth towels to apply, & remove with Microfiber.

RESULTS:
Stuff is easy to work with & results are great so far removing all the swirls & cloudiness. At this point I am just cleaning up edges & small parts for final assembly - some small body panel sections as well.

Have not used the Flex yet s I am not ready to polish out whole car yet.

HAND POLISHING:
I dont know how hand polishing translates into pad selection, but I would guess that the Flex with foam pads is going to be a LOT more effective/agressive than what I can do by hand with a towel!

So, If I can remove all my defects by hand, I would think that some less aggressive pads would suit me - So here are my thoughts on the pad selection:

PAD SELECTION IDEA:

Flex 3402 with mini adapter to use 5,5" Lake Country Flat pads.

- PRODUCT: Uber Compound & Total Swirl Remover
- PAD: WHITE - very light cut
- WHY: I have seen the different correction ability between UC & TSR using the same kind of terry towel application by hand, so I figure the White pad is safest & less aggressive - and the UC & TSR will give me the varying correction aggressiveness I need.

- PRODUCT: Finish Glaze & Sealant application
- PAD: Black
- WHY: Dont think I need any cutting action for the glaze & sealant?

? BLUE PAD? does the blue have any cut? I see its recommended for sealant & Liquid wax - better choice?

I would also get a couple Orange for any areas that the white pad cant knock out.

Note: Cant wait to use my Flex as my finger really hurts now!

Thanks.
 
Pad selection for Flex & Wolfgang

Hi Guys, I posted this in the "Pads" section, but thought I would also post there as the Flex is "a different kind of animal" than regular DA - Let me know if its okay to "double post"? New here & dont wanna stir the pot.

Have a black car & am trying to figure out what color pads to get. I want to keep my detaining set up simple with out to many different pads & stuff - basically get a "system" & stick to it - One product line maybe 2 "colors" of pads? Im not a detailer, just a hobbyist that wants to maintain my car myself with out to much "fuss" & dont want to end up with pads I dont need.

PRODUCTS I have been using:
Wolfgang Line: Uber compound, Total Swirl Remover, Finish Glaze & Deep Gloss Sealant.

PAINT CONDITION:
great shape, painted last year, in garage since for assembly. Minor swirls & clouds from the wetsand & buff at the paint shop + some light scratches from assembly.

Current APPLICATION METHOD:
So far just using the Uber, TSR, FG & SGPS by hand - using soft terry cloth towels to apply, & remove with Microfiber.

RESULTS:
Stuff is easy to work with & results are great so far removing all the swirls & cloudiness. At this point I am just cleaning up edges & small parts for final assembly - some small body panel sections as well.

Have not used the Flex yet s I am not ready to polish out whole car yet.

HAND POLISHING:
I dont know how hand polishing translates into pad selection, but I would guess that the Flex with foam pads is going to be a LOT more effective/agressive than what I can do by hand with a towel!

So, If I can remove all my defects by hand, I would think that some less aggressive pads would suit me - So here are my thoughts on the pad selection:

PAD SELECTION IDEA:

Flex 3402 with mini adapter to use 5,5" Lake Country Flat pads.

- PRODUCT: Uber Compound & Total Swirl Remover
- PAD: WHITE - very light cut
- WHY: I have seen the different correction ability between UC & TSR using the same kind of terry towel application by hand, so I figure the White pad is safest & less aggressive - and the UC & TSR will give me the varying correction aggressiveness I need.

- PRODUCT: Finish Glaze & Sealant application
- PAD: Black
- WHY: Dont think I need any cutting action for the glaze & sealant?

? BLUE PAD? does the blue have any cut? I see its recommended for sealant & Liquid wax - better choice?

I would also get a couple Orange for any areas that the white pad cant knock out.

Note: Cant wait to use my Flex as my finger really hurts now!

Thanks.
 
The LC Flat pads do have a good rep on AG but according to some who have tried several pad combos with the flex they love the LC Hybrid pads. I have only used the hybrid pads with my flex and have no complaints. I would purchase 3-4 blue pads, 2 white and yellow pads, and 2 black pads (one for wax, one for sealant) in your situation. You can never have enough pads in your arsenal. I would also recommend the smaller backing plate kit like you have listed and use the 5.5" hybrid pads.
And to add on to your questions. The WG finishing glaze does offer a small amount of cut but your pad selection can only be decided after doing a proper test spot to diagnose the amount of cut needed.

Hope this helps in making your decision.
 
Re: Pad selection for Flex & Wolfgang

:whs:

I also have the 3401 with the backing plate system and use the hybrid pads. I started out with three of the five and eventually expanded to all five. Catch a sale every now and then and it isn't so bad.

So far I've been able to do everything I've come across. I did have to get the orange pads, though, to tackle a stubborn white car. So I recommend stocking a few of each "color". You need to rotate 3-4 pads when polishing a car anyhow.

And yes, the hybrid blue pad will cut. I did a navy blue Silverado with scratches worse than just light swirls and it turned out great. I used the blue pads with the Wolfgang Uber Compound. At that time the blue was the most aggressive pad I had.
 
In my experience the the hybrid pad lineup is the best performing pads on the 3401 and more specifically the 5" pad size. For these pads you will have to pick up the LC interchangeable bp system as the 5" pads require a 4" bp.

Since you are more focused one one pad line, I would pick up a few different color pads so that way you have varying degree of cut at your disposal should you need to swap pads.
 
Re: Pad selection for Flex & Wolfgang

Hi Demonizer,

Hi Guys, I posted this in the "Pads" section, but thought I would also post there as the Flex is "a different kind of animal" than regular DA -

Let me know if its okay to "double post"? New here & dont wanna stir the pot.



Thanks for asking and there's no hard and fast rule that I know of about double posting but when it comes to discussion forums it really works better to only post a single thread for a dedicated topic. Double posts just causes confusion.

I merged your two posts into a single thread.


:)
 
Hi Guys -
Have a black car

PAINT CONDITION:
great shape, painted last year, in garage since for assembly. Minor swirls & clouds from the wetsand & buff at the paint shop + some light scratches from assembly.

So you have a black car that you've put some time into, had it repainted and now you're reassembling it.

Can we ask what it is? :dunno:




Current APPLICATION METHOD:
So far just using the Uber, TSR, FG & SGPS by hand - using soft terry cloth towels to apply, & remove with Microfiber.

These products will all work by hand but it is a lot of work...



Have not used the Flex yet s I am not ready to polish out whole car yet.

If this car you're working on is important to you, and that's what I assume, I would suggest breaking yourself in with your Flex 3401 by doing some practicing on the car you're currently driving.



PAD SELECTION IDEA:

Flex 3402 with mini adapter to use 5,5" Lake Country Flat pads.



Somewhere on this forum I recently posted some info on thick and thin pads for direct drive and free spinning tools.

For free spinning drive tools like the Porter Cable, Griot's, Meguiar's etc. thin pads are better as thick pads absorb and dissipate all the power from the tool This shows up as weak pad rotation. So when it comes to these types of tools thin is in.

Proof of that is the introduction of the new Meguiar's Xtra Cut Microfiber Discs. I'm holding one in my hand right now and it is 1/8" thin. It is the thinnest pad I've ever seen for a DA Polisher. It's just a little thicker than one of their Unigrit foam backed sanding discs.

The thin profile of this new MF Pad is because thinner pads equate to more aggressive defect removal somewhat in the same way thinner sanding discs, (no foam backing), equate to more aggressive sanding, thinner microfiber pads, fiber pads, (Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool Pads), and thinner foam pads equate to more aggressive defect removal. In part because the thin factor enables these pads to leverage the oscillation and rotation action from the tool.


When it comes to direct drive tools, pad thickness is a lot less of a factor and in my opinion a thicker pads is better for most applications.

I wouldn't get 5.5" LC pads for a Flex 3401. I would start with 6.5" pads from Lake Country, the CCS, Flat or Hydro-Tech, they all work and when you're ready to upgrade, get the Lake Country Backing Plate Adapter System so you can get the 4" backing plate and then like Mike aka smack said, get the 5" Hybrid Pads.

Get Orange, White and Black and you can tackle dang near anything with the Wolfgang Four.



The Wolfgang Four


Here's some stuff on the 5" Hybrid pads and the 4" backing plates...


New 5" pads for 4" Backing Plate on Flex 3401

New 4" and 6" Backing Plates for Flex 3401



Now this car you're assembling, since your forum name is Demonizer, is it a classic Mopar Demon?


:)
 
Thanks for the replies!

THE CAR:
1967 Mustang. I stripped it down to the bare body & re-engineered the entire car from the ground up. Totally updated with Power windows, remote locks, trunk pop, Back Up Cam & everything els. All new glass, trim, Re-engineered front end, power rack & pinion - list goes on.
Cost in parts is around $60k, Time to build so far - 4 years & 2,700 hours my labor - I have done all the work myself except the base/clear paint.

Mike - Allot of people bring up that Mopar Demon!

I attached some pics - dont know how to place them in the post with descriptions - so they are all at the bottom. All pics are of the paint as it is now - no correction or polishing yet

PAINT:
PPG Deltron 9700 base & 2021 Clear. Its been wet-sanded & buffed out, but has some haziness & swirl marks form the buffing & me working on the car for the last year -nothing major.

Looks great next to any black car, but in my shop I can see all the defects with fluorescent & LED lights (my version of the inspection light) - Hard to get a picture though.

After researching all the info & joining the Autogeek community - I realized that I could get the stuff & learn the techniques and polish & finish the paint out myself rather than taking back to the paint shop for final polish - then I can maintain it forever - I alway enjoys new tools & learning new skills!

i have also watch dozens of MIKE PHILLIPS videos & purchased his detailing book - so I am ready to get started.

DETAILING PRODUCTS:
Base on Mike Phillips & everyone else raving about the Flex, I bought the Flex/Wolfgang Ultimate kit which came with the smaller 4 3/8" BP for using the 5" - 5.5" pads - many posted that the 5.5" pads works better so I made sure to get the kit with the smaller back plate. It came with Wolfgang products.

I have been playing around with the Wolfgang products and they are very nice. Again, so far just applying by hand with a terry towel.

I have been using basic 3M compound & polish and Presta Swirl Remover with good results - they are "straight weight" products that dont break down.

The Wolfgang line, with Diminishing abrasives are just as effective, yield same or better results and finish off easier. I was really impressed with the Uber Compound. Its not as aggressive as I though from reading posts, but it finished very nice & glossy. I did have an occasional stubborn defect that required the 3M compound - which leaves a haze -and the uber brought that right up to a nice gloss. Finishing with the TSP & Final Glaze really makes a deep black perfect & glossy wet finish. The color itself actually got 15% or so BLACKER!

For deeper sanding Marks, I use some 3,000 grit paper (wet) & the Uber takes it right up to a gloss as well.


MIKE - YOU RECOMMENDED 5" Hybrid PADS over the 5.5" flats?
Can I use the Flex 4 3/8 BP that came with my kit for these 5" Pads? Flex says it can be used with 5" & 5.5" - your thoughts?

I would prefer to just get the best / right stuff from that start - i.e. 5" pads - if that is the best size to get the best performance/flexability from the Flex.

I can machine the 4 3/8" BP to 4" if necessary.


TEAT AREA:
As you recommend, I will be learning the Flex on my daily driver (PT Cruizer) - a full size "test area"! after I detail that I should be ready.

Regarding my original question - seems like most recommend trying various pads to find the ones that work best & then order up a bunch. So I will do that & see what works.
 
Wow!

I knew it was something cool... and I figured if it was something cool this means like a lot of "Car Guys" before you, you've spent hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars on this project.


Here's a few of the pictures you shared, I uploaded them to your free gallery here on AGO so they could be inserted for easier viewing...



Very cool...

1967_Mustang_0001.jpg


1967_Mustang_0002.jpg


1967_Mustang_0003.jpg


1967_Mustang_0004.jpg


1967_Mustang_0005.jpg


And thank you for your business...

1967_Mustang_0005.jpg



And thank you for purchasing my how-to book...


:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for the replies!

THE CAR:
1967 Mustang. I stripped it down to the bare body & re-engineered the entire car from the ground up. Totally updated with Power windows, remote locks, trunk pop, Back Up Cam & everything els. All new glass, trim, Re-engineered front end, power rack & pinion - list goes on.

Cost in parts is around $60k, Time to build so far - 4 years & 2,700 hours my labor - I have done all the work myself except the base/clear paint.


Sounds about right. Most guys can tackle most of a car project, everything the actual machine work for the engine and the spraying of the paint. In the past I've had the machine work for my engines performed by shops but then I do the actual assembly of the motor.



Mike - Allot of people bring up that Mopar Demon!

Just a guess due to your forum name...



I attached some pics - dont know how to place them in the post with descriptions - so they are all at the bottom. All pics are of the paint as it is now - no correction or polishing yet

See above, I inserted a few...


PAINT:
PPG Deltron 9700 base & 2021 Clear. Its been wet-sanded & buffed out, but has some haziness & swirl marks form the buffing & me working on the car for the last year -nothing major.

That's the norm... one my buddies and local car buy has been coming to our Thursday night classes since April of 2013 to learn how to polish paint. I didn't think much of this until I found out WHY he wanted and NEEDED to earn how to polish paint and that's because he was doing something very similar to what you've done.

Story is here...

Back in Black! 1969 GTO!!!


Dens_1969_GTO_007.jpg








After researching all the info & joining the Autogeek community - I realized that I could get the stuff & learn the techniques and polish & finish the paint out myself rather than taking back to the paint shop for final polish - then I can maintain it forever - I alway enjoys new tools & learning new skills!

i have also watch dozens of MIKE PHILLIPS videos & purchased his detailing book - so I am ready to get started.

Excellent and the best path to travel down. The guys at the body shop can only invest so much time into any single project and they can't use any waxes or sealants in their shop environment, so no matter what you were still going to have to perfect your waxing techniques.



DETAILING PRODUCTS:
Base on Mike Phillips & everyone else raving about the Flex, I bought the Flex/Wolfgang Ultimate kit which came with the smaller 4 3/8" BP for using the 5" - 5.5" pads - many posted that the 5.5" pads works better so I made sure to get the kit with the smaller back plate. It came with Wolfgang products.

The above will all work. To be honest I'd have to go out into the garage and put this backing plate on and these thin pads and buff out a front clip to refresh my memory of any positive or negative aspects but generally speaking, with any direct drive tool having a thin pad might not hurt but it's not a crucial factor like it is the the PC style tools.

We used to sell a 5.5" Hydro-Tech pad that was and was perfect for the Flex 3401 but the thick version were phased out. I have pictures of them in this article,


5 1/2 inch and 6 inch Buffing Pads on Autogeek's Online Store



5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
5_5HydroPads01.jpg



5.5" Hydro-Tech pads are right at 5.5" in diameter
5_5HydroPads02.jpg



Approximately 1 1/4" thick
5_5HydroPads03.jpg




Meguiar's has had their 6.5" pads around since the late 1970's I think, foam formulas are modern thought, the yellow and tan pads would work well, I'm not sure about the maroon cutting pad. It would work of course but it's a VERY aggressive foam.



6.5" Meguiar's Pads
6_0MegsPads01.jpg



6.5" Meguiar's pads are slightly tapered around the outer perimeter and measure approximately 6 1/4" in diameter
6_0MegsPads02.jpg



Approximately 1 1/8" thick
6_0MegsPads03.jpg





I have been using basic 3M compound & polish and Presta Swirl Remover with good results - they are "straight weight" products that dont break down.

Be careful with these two brands and your DUAL ACTION polisher. Both these brands are meant to be used with rotary buffers and my experience and the dozens of conversations I've been involved with when guys use these with dual action polishers is always about the haze they leave in the paint.

The issue comes up often enough I wrote an article about it... I recommend reading this...


For Use with Rotary Buffer Only - Read the Directions



The Wolfgang line, with Diminishing abrasives are just as effective, yield same or better results and finish off easier. I was really impressed with the Uber Compound. Its not as aggressive as I though from reading posts, but it finished very nice & glossy.

I did have an occasional stubborn defect that required the 3M compound - which leaves a haze -and the uber brought that right up to a nice gloss.

Yep. It has to do with the abrasive technology. I talk about this in the above article and the haze is what everyone else experiences when using compounds meant for body shops and rotary buffers and instead use them with dual action polishers.



Finishing with the TSP & Final Glaze really makes a deep black perfect & glossy wet finish. The color itself actually got 15% or so BLACKER!

Sounds about right...



For deeper sanding Marks, I use some 3,000 grit paper (wet) & the Uber takes it right up to a gloss as well.

Sounds about right...


MIKE - YOU RECOMMENDED 5" Hybrid PADS over the 5.5" flats?

Can I use the Flex 4 3/8 BP that came with my kit for these 5" Pads? Flex says it can be used with 5" & 5.5" - your thoughts?

The answer is "no" but that's only because the Velcro on the back of the 5" Hybrid pads is exactly 4" in diameter to match the 4" diameter backing plate.

When you try to use the larger backing plate it's hard to center the pads. I'll take another look and try to attach and see what it's like. Here's this...

New 5" pads for 4" Backing Plate on Flex 3401



5" Hybrid Pads for the 4" backing plate on the Flex 3401!

1965Plymouth009.jpg


1965Plymouth010.jpg


1965Plymouth011.jpg






I would prefer to just get the best / right stuff from that start - i.e. 5" pads - if that is the best size to get the best performance/flexibility from the Flex.

I can machine the 4 3/8" BP to 4" if necessary.

That would work.




TEAT AREA:
As you recommend, I will be learning the Flex on my daily driver (PT Cruizer) - a full size "test area"! after I detail that I should be ready.

Regarding my original question - seems like most recommend trying various pads to find the ones that work best & then order up a bunch. So I will do that & see what works.

With the Flex 3401 you can tackle just about any thing with the Orange, White and Black 5" Hybrid Pads.


Thanks for sharing you Mustang project, can't wait to see it all finished...



:)
 
Thanks Mike - you know how building a car can be - over-budget & over time - but after 4 years 2,700 hours working on it, its really looking great - & fun to drive!

I didnt know I was gonna get so involved with the paint correction & detailing - and that adds to the cost - but it is challenging & fun to shine it up myself - looking forward to it

Putting the fenders & hood on next week & then its almost finished.

Thanks for uploading the pics to my gallery - QUESTION... where is my Gallery?

Also, regarding posting - hoe do you post a reply with caption of previous posts like you do?

Your videos were very enlightening, and the book is really helpful to understand the tips & process - so I know all the stuff I will need before I start - I keep in near by with tabs where I marked important tips for quick reference.

I put in a new Crate engine - Ford Performance GT-40 5.0 - I dressed it out with all the accessories & pumps, serpentine system & transmission. Ford had a sale few years back with free lift gate delivery - so it was longblock complete with GT40 Alum heads, full roller E-303 cam & fuel pump eccentric & Built by Ford - cheaper then to build one & came with a 2 year, 24k warranty - sounds great with @ 400hp. I also have electric cut outs which are a blast at car shows & stuff - ridiculously loud when they are open.

I did read the Back in Black post a while ago - and I was all set on getting the Pinnacle system of products. But After I say you demo the Wolfgang line with the Uber Polish, and saw that the Flex Kit came with the Wolfgang products, I went with it - I also heard good things about the Deep Gloss Sealant on Black paint.

So far I am very pleased with the results of the Wolfgang stuff - dont know how it could get much better.

I dont have much invested yet in the pads & stuff - so I will just start by grabbing some 5" pads in Blk, White & Orange like you suggested & see how they work. Then build up a nice supply of the colors that work best.

Regarding Maintenance, after the big correction process, I would think (barring any major paint damage) I would just polish up with Final glaze & Seal it up couple times a year?

Car is garage kept, and I cruise around about 100-150 miles a week/weekend.

3M Compound - I understand the hazing - that compound is almost like liquid sandpaper - 4,000+ Grit or something - but more forgiving that using actual sand paper. I follow it with Uber compound & it glosses right up. dont think I will use it on the DA - I think because I am polishing by hand that the extra cut of the 3M gave me the correction I needed - with pads & DA Performance, the Uber should really step up & kill the heavier swirls itself

Thanks again for the tips.
 
All you really need are the LC Hybrid orange/white/black pads.
 
Thanks Mike - you know how building a car can be - over-budget & over time - but after 4 years 2,700 hours working on it, its really looking great - & fun to drive!

But the reward is worth it when it's all done and all you have to do is keep her shiny! That's the part I like the best and the part I gravitated towards when I was younger.



I didn't know I was gonna get so involved with the paint correction & detailing -

You had to do it though. Otherwise you would be at the mercy of someone else and as you've probably seen on this forum there are a lot of horror stories about how someone's pride and joy gets hacked up by someone claiming they're the best but in reality, they know not what they are doing.

You're going to become like Den and Tommy, both of these guys are experts in their own right at maintaining a flawless show car finish. I think one of the things they enjoy more than how nice the paint on their cars looks is how everyone asks them,


How did you get your car's paint to look so good?

(Click the question to find out who Tommy is) :D



and that adds to the cost - but it is challenging & fun to shine it up myself - looking forward to it

I'm confident your hard work is going to pay off every time someone compliments your car and adds how nice the paint looks.



Thanks for uploading the pics to my gallery - QUESTION... where is my Gallery?

On the top of every forum page there are some text links, click on the word that says Gallery and then to the left hand side of the page you'll see some text links that read,

My Photos My Albums My Favorites

Click on My Photos and you should see them.

I have a bunch of articles on how to work with photos on discussion forums. I'm all self-taught and probably post about 500 pictures a week to this forum. So if I can do it anyone can do it.

I own a copy of PhotoShop Elements 2.0, it came with my Canon Rebel Camera and I use this mostly for cropping out the fluff. Once I crop out the fluff I use Easy Thumbnails to resize all my pictures to 800 pixels wide as I find this to be the optimum picture width for the widest spectrum of electronic display devices. I also use a free picture viewer called Lview Pro, the freeware version from the early 1990's.

I can't help people to get a free copy of PhotoShop Elements but I've seen it at Costco for around $80.00 but the Easy Thumbnails and the Lview Pro are free.


How to resize your photos before uploading to a photo gallery - Using Easy Thumbnails

Handiest little picture viewer tool I've been using for years now...


Here's an online website that will let you crop, resize and edit your images online for free. This link goes to my article on how to use the software on the website.


How to crop out the fluff and resize your pictures! - Using FREE online software!


Then here are my articles on how to get your pictures uploaded into the gallery and then inserted into a thread, not attached.


How to upload a photo into your Autogeek Photo Gallery

How to insert an image from your photo gallery into your message


If you're going to put a lot of pictures up on the forum then it helps to create a dedicated gallery for each car or project. Here's my article on how to do this...


How to create dedicated albums in your photo gallery...


This one just kind of explains how image tags work on the Internet, once you figure the tags deal out then it helps to make sense of it all.


[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/56732-how-use-image-tags-insert-photo.html"][COLOR=blue][B]How to use Image Tags to insert a photo[/B][/COLOR][/URL]



Photobucket is a waste of everyone's time because in most cases, over time the really cool pictures someone shares n a forum disappear and that pretty much ruins the really cool thread. Seen this happen for over 10 years now so don't really care to argue with any fanboy of Photobucket. (Usually if they're a fan boy I can find their missing pictures :D )


[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/23699-photobucket-missing-pictures.html"][COLOR=blue][B]Photobucket and Missing Pictures[/B][/COLOR][/URL]



And anyone having trouble figuring out how to get their pictures onto our forum can always contact me and I'm happy to helps walk you through the process over the phone. To be honest, my articles actually explain everything in detail and have screenshots SHOWING what to do and what things need to look like.

It's only hard the first few times you do it and then it's a cake walk.



[QUOTE="Demonizer, post: 1067189, member: 50126"]


Also, regarding posting - hoe do you post a reply with caption of previous posts like you do?

[/quote]

I also write articles on how to interact on discussion forums because I know we have people new to "discussion forums" joining all the time and instead of making them work at figuring this forum thing out I try to flatten out the learning curve a little.


Here's my article on how to use the edit option and the multi-quote feature of vBulletin. I use this a lot.

[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/20690-how-use-editor-mode-break-single-quoted-message-up-into-smaller-quoted-sections.html"][COLOR=blue][B]How to use the "Editor Mode" to break a single quoted message up into smaller quoted sections[/B][/COLOR][/URL]


Note I use [B]Internet Explorer[/B] for all my forum work because it's the ONLY browser that allows you to use ALL the features in vBulletin. I know there's a lot of fans for Chrome, or Firefox or fill-in-the-blank but with over 40,000 posts on this forum and tens of thousands of photos I know that which I speak of.

(If one of the other browsers worked as good or better for vBulletin don't you guys of other browsers think I would already be using it?)

Here's another good tip, again it works with IE but not all other browsers...

[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/23245-how-expand-message-box.html"][COLOR=blue][B]How to expand the message box[/B][/COLOR][/URL]


I'm using this one right now as I type this reply on a 24" monitor in [B]Portrait Mode[/B]. Look at the monitor on the left.

[IMG]http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/medium/ArmHolderUppers01.jpg




Your videos were very enlightening, and the book is really helpful to understand the tips & process - so I know all the stuff I will need before I start - I keep in near by with tabs where I marked important tips for quick reference.

Not bragging but if a person new to detailing, specifically polishing paint were to read my how-to book from front to back they will know more than most detailers and even guys that work in body shops. There's a TON of information in it.


I put in a new Crate engine - Ford Performance GT-40 5.0 - I dressed it out with all the accessories & pumps, serpentine system & transmission. Ford had a sale few years back with free lift gate delivery - so it was longblock complete with GT40 Alum heads, full roller E-303 cam & fuel pump eccentric & Built by Ford - cheaper then to build one & came with a 2 year, 24k warranty - sounds great with @ 400hp. I also have electric cut outs which are a blast at car shows & stuff - ridiculously loud when they are open.

Sounds like my kind of fun. I owned this boat for 20 years, I know a little bit about fast and loud...

1970_Sanger_V_-Drive-Drag_Boat_001.jpg


1970_Sanger_V_-Drive-Drag_Boat_002.jpg



Here's a shot of the engine with my son in the driver's seat. If you look on the head of the engine behind the passenger seat you can see the stereo and behind the scoop is the antenna with a "76 Gas Station" ball on the top of it. Down below were a bunch of amps and speakers. I didn't put the stereo in till years later when I owned it and it was never in the boat when I raced it.

1970_Sanger_V_-Drive-Drag_Boat_004.jpg




This is a shot of me racing the 1/4 mile I think in 1983 or 1984. I clocked my fastest time of 111 mph in 12 seconds. The boat was raced professionally by Rick Baker and he clocked 122 mph in 9 seconds in 1976. Back then that was really fast in the drag boat racing world.

1970_Sanger_V_-Drive-Drag_Boat_006.jpg



If you look carefully, you can see I'm pulling the boat with the first 1959 Cadillac I ever bought. This too was a great boat puller and a blast to drive with the top off. Of the the left was my buddy Eric's 1976 Sanger Bubble Deck Runner Bottom, I loved his boat and if I could ever get another Drag boat I would want a Sanger Runner Bottom V-Drive Bubble Deck...

1970_Sanger_V_-Drive-Drag_Boat_013.jpg






I did read the Back in Black post a while ago - and I was all set on getting the Pinnacle system of products. But After I say you demo the Wolfgang line with the Uber Polish, and saw that the Flex Kit came with the Wolfgang products, I went with it - I also heard good things about the Deep Gloss Sealant on Black paint.

So far I am very pleased with the results of the Wolfgang stuff - dont know how it could get much better.

Both use very good abrasive technology, that's the key factor.




Regarding Maintenance, after the big correction process, I would think (barring any major paint damage) I would just polish up with Final glaze & Seal it up couple times a year?


When it comes to maintenance, this is where you really need to find a product you like and use it often.


Right now I'm a big fan of using the Black Label Diamond Paint Coating on my daily driver truck. But note, I don't purposefully try to maintain a 100% Flawless, Swirl-free finish as it's a t-r-u-c-k.

I use Black Label Diamond Surface Coating on my wife's 2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK350 and it ALWAYS looks flawless but that's in part because of the coating, me keeping it up and it has PPG Ceramiclear paint.

Before we introduced the BL coatings, I used Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax for my LSP because it's

  • Fast
  • Easy
  • Looks clear and wet
And I machine applied it. This is what Tommy uses on his Cuda and Den uses on his GTO.

A practice Tommy uses on his Cuda is ANYTIME he sees a new defect, whatever it is, he makes a mental note of it when he's out and about. When he gets his Cuda home he places a Post-it Note next to the defect and then as soon as he gets a chance he gets out his Flex 3401, his Pinnacle Polishes and makes the defect go away. Then re-waxes that area.

That's how he keeps a show winning finish on his Cuda all the time...

1970_Cuda_First_Place.jpg





Car is garage kept, and I cruise around about 100-150 miles a week/weekend.

Living the dream...


3M Compound - I understand the hazing - that compound is almost like liquid sandpaper - 4,000+ Grit or something - but more forgiving that using actual sand paper.

I follow it with Uber compound & it glosses right up. dont think I will use it on the DA - I think because I am polishing by hand that the extra cut of the 3M gave me the correction I needed - with pads & DA Performance, the Uber should really step up & kill the heavier swirls itself

Thanks again for the tips.


You're definitely getting the hang of all this...


:dblthumb2:
 
Since this iss you're first post...


Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


All you really need are the LC Hybrid orange/white/black pads.

The above is a very versatile combination of pads while keeping it very simple. Paried with the Wolfgang Four a person can pretty much tackle anything in their garage.


The Wolfgang Four


Here are four products that will take care of about 99.9% of any exterior paint correction product you'll ever have in your garage.


The Wolfgang Four
The_Wolfgang_Four.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for all the info & Links Mike - I will read through them.

I had my smaller flex BP machined down to 4" - so I will start with a selection of 5" pads as you suggested - I will post a thread later on the machining process with some pics -

12 sec is a pretty respectable time on the speed boat - cant imagine how loud that is - can you even hear the stereo at 111 mph!

I also polished up my whole front valance (biggest piece so far) before I put it on. All by hand with TSP & Final Glaze & DGPS- came out amazing - but my arm is about to fall off. I will make a post on that regarding hand polishing just as a point of interest.

I really like the products - easy to work with & great results.

Thanks Again
 
Thanks for all the info & Links Mike - I will read through them.

I had my smaller flex BP machined down to 4" - so I will start with a selection of 5" pads as you suggested - I will post a thread later on the machining process with some pics -

12 sec is a pretty respectable time on the speed boat - cant imagine how loud that is - can you even hear the stereo at 111 mph!

I also polished up my whole front valance (biggest piece so far) before I put it on. All by hand with TSP & Final Glaze & DGPS- came out amazing - but my arm is about to fall off. I will make a post on that regarding hand polishing just as a point of interest.

I really like the products - easy to work with & great results.

Thanks Again

Sounds good. Remember the 5 inch pads with the 4 inch hook and loop material on the pads is the Hybrid pads.

Would like to see the thread of machining down the bp.
 
Thread on cutting the BP down is in the Flex section, title is

" Cutting down Flex Mini 4 3/8 BP to use 5" Pads"

Search it or try this link:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...lex-mini-4-3-8-bp-use-5-pads.html#post1020537

THANKS MIKE for the tips & links on how to manage pics & stuff!

I finally put the fenders on - looks like a car now!
Still have to get the windshield trim on.

IMG_2346_POST.jpg


I'ts looking pretty good - paint is sanded & buffed out - holds its own at the shows -

BUT once I get the Flex on it & make the paint perfect - its gonna be AWESOME!
 
Back
Top