Pads getting hot

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ShawnCT450R

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Probably read information in here for two solid weeks prior to my first (test vehicle) attempt. Turned out pretty good, but my white CCS pads kept getting very hot at the center where they adhere to the backing plate. One has even started to loose glue and is separating from the black velcro backer. This pad also shows signs of velcro melting at the center. I was using the white 6" CCS pads to apply Blackfire Total Polish & Seal at the recommended speed of 5 on my GG6. Very little product was used, and I am surprised how little it actually takes to do an entire vehicle.

Test vehicle: 95 ford ranger: Quarter panel = 2 sections, Door = 2 sections, Bed-side = 3 sections.

I was swapping pads after every two sections, but it seemed that the heat build-up was too great. I started swapping after every section and this seems to help. I still have to pause for a few minutes every 4-6 sections so the backing pad can cool off.

(Second attempt note) When Using the blackfire / white pad combo on my other, nice truck, I slowed the speed down to 4 and this seemed to help a small amount. The pad backs still get hot though. This severly slows down the whole process, and I don't want to trash my pads with heat.

Also, when using Red CCS pads to apply wax, they didn't seem to heat up as fast. Still got into the pratice of swapping every section, and cycled in a third pad to help combat the heat issue.

So now my question. What causes this heat build-up and how do I combat it so I can work quickly while not trashing my pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
 
I dont havea GG6, I do have a PC. My exsperience is when the center is getting to hot it's because I was doing a section pass to long. Are you working 2'x2' area at a time?
 
I had the same thing happen to me . I was using PC, 6.5" ccs, prewax cleaner on speed 6. Half way through panel accidentily lifted machine before shutting it off (rookie). Pad flew off and I noticed middle had completely melted. Pad seemed to be ok when I was using PC on 5. Just thought I would try it on 6 to experiment and I don't believe I was using a lot of pressure.Feed back please
 
From what I have read most of the time excessive heat build up is caused by too much product, speed, pressure.
 
Also if your using an extension cord make sure its the right gauge, i've heard issues like yours happening because of this reason.
 
From correcting glass with a GG6 I found all the heat comes from the friction of the pad on the polishing surface, not from the machine down to the pad as some have speculated. I found this to be true, as when polishing glass, you must constantly "re-wet" the Ceri-Glass polish with water to keep it liquid. This keeps the surface cool as the water.

So, I was running the GG6 on full speed (6) for periods of up to 20 minutes at a time. I kept feeling the machine's head and the area around the spindle for heat. It stayed pretty much around room temp. If the machine was causing the heat (not the pad / surface friction) the spindle would have been quite hot after running on speed 6 for 20 mins.

So, now that the culprit of the heat is identified, there are a couple things that could cause heat in my mind:

1. Heat from high pad speed

2. Heat from too much downward pressure

3. Heat from too much product in pad

4. Heat from the environment, like working in a 95 degree garage with little air flow.

Since the GG6 is pretty powerful, any combination of these things can cause pads to get too hot, or all of these things. I think, the machine has the power to spin the pad forcefully enough where any of the things can become more of an issue than with less powerful polishers.

The only solution I could think of is use less downward pressure, less speed, with less product (or switch to new pads more frequently). Another thing you could try is one of those new style backing plates, like Adams makes, that have the holes in it. They are supposed to dissipate heat better.

Another thought is to use a more aggressive pad/polish combo so you are able to get more correction from less speed and downward pressure - in theory at least.
 
swanicyouth said:
From correcting glass with a GG6 I found all the heat comes from the friction of the pad on the polishing surface, not from the machine down to the pad as some have speculated. I found this to be true, as when polishing glass, you must constantly "re-wet" the Ceri-Glass polish with water to keep it liquid. This keeps the surface cool as the water.

So, I was running the GG6 on full speed (6) for periods of up to 20 minutes at a time. I kept feeling the machine's head and the area around the spindle for heat. It stayed pretty much around room temp. If the machine was causing the heat (not the pad / surface friction) the spindle would have been quite hot after running on speed 6 for 20 mins.

So, now that the culprit of the heat is identified, there are a couple things that could cause heat in my mind:

1. Heat from high pad speed

2. Heat from too much downward pressure

3. Heat from too much product in pad

4. Heat from the environment, like working in a 95 degree garage with little air flow.

Since the GG6 is pretty powerful, any combination of these things can cause pads to get too hot, or all of these things. I think, the machine has the power to spin the pad forcefully enough where any of the things can become more of an issue than with less powerful polishers.

The only solution I could think of is use less downward pressure, less speed, with less product (or switch to new pads more frequently). Another thing you could try is one of those new style backing plates, like Adams makes, that have the holes in it. They are supposed to dissipate heat better.

Another thought is to use a more aggressive pad/polish combo so you are able to get more correction from less speed and downward pressure - in theory at least.
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Plus the wrong cord can cause you PC to over heat to. Its really worth spending the money on a good extension cord.
 
Griot's Customer Service recommends a 16 guage extension cord. Home Depot has a 12' 2 way (plug) 16 guage for $7.99 that works well. Because it is a two way the female end is small so you can just permanently attach it to the male plug from the GG6--I put some electrical tape over mine so I don't have to worry about it comming unpluged.
 
Do the griots use the back way set between the backing plate and machine? I know the pc does and If you forget it my pads get hot.
 
HellaBroke said:
Do the griots use the back way set between the backing plate and machine? I know the pc does and If you forget it my pads get hot.
Click to expand...

I am not sure what this is? Guess I'll have to look it up. I have not removed my backing plate since receiving the machine, but it's always worth a check.
 
All of my extension cords are 14 gauge or better. I have been using very little product. Maybe I'm trying to do too big of an area at one time. Not pushing down on the unit at all. I actually find myself holding it off the paint just a bit, when trying not to apply pressure to it.

Thanks for all of the replys. Stuff for me to pay attention to during my next attempt.
 
HellaBroke said:
Do the griots use the back way set between the backing plate and machine? I know the pc does and If you forget it my pads get hot.[/QUOTE

Do you mean the washer? If so, than yes it does.

And it will cause excessive heat if its not there.
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Pulled the backing pad off for the first time, and the washer was there. Reinstalled the pad so it doesn't get lost.
 
How much pressure are you using? I think the rule of thumb is machine weight by it self is 3 lbs down pressure add ur hand and verys 3-5lbs

Product amount? Are you cleaning your pad after each complete section pass? Product saturation can induce some heat as well as being counter productive using a dirty pad ( dirty meaning spent product and clear coat build up)
 
HellaBroke said:
How much pressure are you using? I think the rule of thumb is machine weight by it self is 3 lbs down pressure add ur hand and verys 3-5lbs

Product amount? Are you cleaning your pad after each complete section pass? Product saturation can induce some heat as well as being counter productive using a dirty pad ( dirty meaning spent product and clear coat build up)
Click to expand...

Not using any pressure at all. Had to work on that and be really concious of the way I was using the unit, but I think I have the hang of it.

Not gonna say that I clean the pads after every section, but I do clean after every 2-3 sections. When I clean the pads, with either the brush or towel method (or both), it doesn't seem like I get much of anything out of them. I have watched the videos about cleaning, and do just that. Not much deposited on the towel when I'm done.
 
I don't know how I missed your last paragraph when using a red pad and applying wax there is still heat or even warmth being felt...
I apply wax at a speed of 2-3 using a pc and I have never felt any temperature raise at all. While few and far between possible faulty machine? Have u posted up to see if there are any other Detailers in your area with a griots 6"? I would try meeting up with them have them try your machine, have them watch you do a section pass reproduce the problem your having to see if your doing something wrong or if they try it using there technique and still produce warmth/heat it's your machine.

Side note none of these application process were done in direct sunlight or onto hot/warmed panels? This could be transferring heat to the pads for the warmth but I doubt for enough to melt glue unless its a combination of issues
 
2 section pass' for a door seems high for me I normally quarter doors into four separate pass'
Detailing is a timely process my first ten cars working by myself took every bit of 10-15 hours (granted I'm slow and super meticulous) and that's just correction + 2-4 hours for interior and another hour plus to take care of wheels and fender liners...
 
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