Paint chipping away, bare metal exposed. Best solution to prevent further damage?

cshamilton

cshamilton

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Hey guys,

This started about a year ago. I inherited this car from my family; and, of course, they always washed the car with Dawn/Polmolive and don't own a single type of wax. The car is an 04 Ford Taurus and I took ownership in 2008, from then on, I always had some form of protection on the vehicle.

It started with one small chip and as long as I kept wax on the vehicle, it was fine- ie- wouldn't spread.

I got a pressure washer about a year ago, on the first wash I chipped a few pieces off of the car. I stopped using the PW on this car, but it's continuing with every wash. What should I do to prevent further damage?

The second question is regarding to a Ford Dealership-repainted bumper that was done in 2005. It's always had issues, including not being 100% the same color, but now it's chipping and exposing another layer of paint, not plastic. How do I stop this? Wetsanding?

Here are some pictures:

paintissue2.jpg


paintissue1.jpg


(that's overspray from some Plasti Dip that I was playing with last month.)

paintissue3.jpg
 
Yes.

Sand.

250 grit to metal.

Filler

Sand flat and even.

Spray primer.

Sand primer.

Spray base.

Spray clear coat.

Only way to fix paint chipping up
 
I don't want to go through that honesty. So there's no way to use a sealant or something and prevent it from chipping further?

Thanks for the info though.
 
I dont think a sealant would really help that unless you put Opti Coat or CQ Quartz on that. But then would it properly bond and is it really worth the $$$? Someone correct me if I am wrong. These cars are a dime a dozen. Best bet is to check around local salvage yards for color-matched bumper.

Oh.....did the shop that did the repair offer any warranty? when I had my front bumper replaced and repainted, it came with lifetime ownership warranty. Basically a guarantee that the paint would not fail as this seems to have failed.
 
That paint as failed be is no longer bonding to the metal and primer. Putting anything on top won't help unfortunately.
 
Thanks for the info. As the car is only worth $3000ish, and that's not the only blemish, I'm not going to take the time to fix it.

As I say that, I spent 5-6 hours today deep cleaning it. Planning on doing a round of DG products tomorrow on the paint. :laugh:
 
Looks like a bad coat of primer and the top coat did not stick. Be gentle with it and you may get a little more time out of it. The only real fix is repainting and getting that primer off.
 
Hi,

Sorry for suggesting such 'amateur' solution, but once I've done a repair of similar paint 'damage' as a temporary solution until owner makes the proper repair.

It's posted here, on AG:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ck-corsa-popular-car-removing-super-glue.html

The repair is not actually on first post, it's at the end of first page when I've added some more details and pictures.

I've used a small 'painter's roll' (don't know how to call that in english), and done some 2, 3 applications waiting 5-10 minutes between them. Paint sticked so nice to peeling place and stayed there, strong.

After letting paint dry, I've sanded the place with 3000 grit and then compounded and polished to achieve a smooth finish.

Again, it was a VERY amateur solution (I recognize that), however owner not repaired properly until now. At least it kept damage from being worst, and helped 'hiding' that horrible scene of paint peeling away.

Hope that helps, but please, do it at your own risk.

Always try a test spot on a unsuspicious place.

Looking forward to hear from you,

Kind Regards.
 
Don't apologize! That's the beauty of a forum. It may not be the most professional solution but it may be one of the best when it comes to cost vs effect achieved.

I am glad you suggested it. I'm going to see what I can come up with and may give it a shot. I also may try some clear plastidip that I already have. I'm just worried that when it inevitably starts peeling I'll tear off a ton of paint when I do. Maybe I can just keep topping it up and it will be fine. I'll try a test spot first on one of the smaller spots.
 
Dear, how are you doing?

I've done another 'amateur' repair to a similar condition like yours.

Please, those suggestions are just for temporary touch ups and will not correct the damage. Indeed, it'll look tons better from some distance, and also avoid damage getting worse. Customer was then advised to search professional repair to this condition.

I don't own a paint shop, so there's nothing else I can do on that situations.

Take a look:

corolla-fast-amateur-repair-before.png




I'll try to describe process in the next reply since I need to look to the pictures while writing.

Hold on a second, please.
 
I've removed license plate, cleaned it and re-painted the letters and numbers in black. Also straighten it up.

Then I've washed the car and used a bug remover soap and sonax bug sponge to remove that bug residue.

I went to local paint shop and ordered some of the PU paint for the color I was working on.

Using a very thin paint brush, I've 'transferred' the paint from the jar to the car's finish, letting it fill the pores of the rock chips, just like 'dipping' the brush as soft as I can.

That was done only twice to each chip. If I was going to try more repair, I would reapply touch up until it slightly passes the level of actual paint, then try to sand it a bit and polish afterwards.

I was not earning money for that touch up, just for detailing the 'rest of' car, that's why I've not invested much time on this 'repair'.

To the larger damage (peeling paint), I've used slightly larger brush, dropped the paint on the damaged areas (it will spread over the damaged area and stop at corners of damage). Let it go under the 'risen' areas, then using my gloved fingertip, immediately pressed the risen areas down till they 'glued' to their place.

Repeat process if needed.

After letting it dry for some hours, I've polished over to smooth it a bit.

Then, I've used a bit of clear coat I have here (sorry, no label on that one, so I don't know exactly what kind of clear it is in fact) on risen borders to further improve resistance.

After many hours, I've polished again to smooth a bit more.

No sanding this time, like I've said, no time for extensive repair tries on this one. Also, not willing to risk my reputation on a lost cause.

Although it not looks perfect (much far from that), at least it's joined together strong enough to avoid further damage and 'hide it a bit' at some distance.

Again, this is just an 'idea' for you to try to deal with your problem, not even a good way to do this.

Hope this gives you some insight for your work tomorrow.

As always, any critics, suggestions, comments, are very welcome.

Thank you in advance,

Kind Regards.
 
Thanks Tato! I'm going to visit with a friend tomorrow who has a body shop out of state. He is going to bring some paint with him and if I can find some that matches up close enough, I'll be attempting this. If this works, I'll be sure to let you know and post some pictures. It definitely looks alot better than it previously did; that's for sure!

As always,

Thanks for your prompt help.
 
You're welcome mate.

Notice, If I was to attempt more improvement on that, I would (patiently) add the paint again, and again, and again... until completely filling the damage to slightly under / just leveled to the non-damaged area.

After that, I would polish the area to smooth things a bit.

Then, I would apply the clear coat to entire area repaired, and 24h later, sand it down from 3000, then 5000, then remove sanding marks for a smooth finish.

I don't know if you got the idea behind it, but always remember this is what I call amateur touch-ups.

This needs a lot of time and patience, that's why in many cases it's cheaper (and tons better) to have the part repainted.

Good luck on your try,

Glad I could add ideas for you to think about.

Count on me,

Kind Regards.
 
Well he didn't have anything that matched up nicely so I'm going to check out a local paint shop. I did come across some clear plasti dip for $3 a can and may give that a try. It will have a matte finish but I think the goal here is to keep the paint on the trunk not really make it look better
 
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