Paint Correction didn't go so well

tampatopless

tampatopless

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Hello everyone. I purchased a year old Torch Red Mustang Vert with about 12,000 miles on it about a year ago. Swirl marks were really bad. When I first bought the car, I used used various glazes to fill them up and then sealed them up with a sealant.

But at the same time last year, I bought a Porter and got pretty handy with it using it on my son's 1999 white beater. Sooo, I thought I would tackle the swirl marks on the Mustang, which shows everything. So I washed (my washing methods are good) and clayed. I then applied Meg's Ult Compound at 3 1/2 with an orange LC pad. I did about five passes on each spot.

Then running out of time as the day was ending, I ran out of time and waxed.

Well, couple of days later, in the sunlight, got a good look at my work. I would say the swirl marks are about 50 percent better, but now I have the compounding marks, which can't be mistaken for anything else. So I guess skipping the polishing step was a bad move. I just didn't have enough time, plus when I finished compounding my son's beater a while back, it looked pretty good with only a LSP.

So I have a couple of questions:

1. Can I remedy this with a wash, clay and Meg's Ult Polish, followed by waxing and or sealant?
2. If so, what pad and what speed?
3. What pad and speed should I have used on the compounding?
4. Do I have to make an investment in the Menzerna twins and start all over? If so, what speed and pads?
5. I like those new Meg's combos, but they see to come only in big jugs. Is the Meg's Ult Compound and Polish a good combo? If so, what pad and speed?

Thank you in advance.
 
Megs Ultimate Compound and Polish are great products and should certainly cut down those swirls for you. I don't usually go any slower than speed 5 and I'm usually at 6 unless I'm applying a wax or sealant (that's at 3-4). I have never just used Ult Compound without a finishing step (Polish). The key is to work the compound enough to only need the Polish to clean up any remaining microscratches, haze etc.

I would suggest cranking that PC up, continue with the orange LC pad and slowly overlap your passes, wipe off and inspect. Then, once your happy with as much as the Compound can do, move on with the Polish and maybe a white LC pad...maybe even another fresh orange pad. Do these as test spots before starting in on the entire car. Dial in what you think looks best to you for the entire process during the test spot phase before doing the entire vehicle and sealing everything in.

Ford paint has always been on the hard side for me and I usually get fairly aggressive with it if cutting down medium to heavy marring. Some fear higher speeds but you don't have to with a Porter Cable.

I'm also in the Tampa area and let me know if you'd like any help.
 
1) wash, no need to clay, if its been a few days use Ultimate Polish, white pad speed 4-5. Honestly, test spots will tell you better people can only give advice on pads and polishes.
2) try ultimate polish, speed 4-5 probably 5
3) You used the right pad, but 3.5 in speed is way slow, you should be like 5 or 6, slow arm movement let the PC work of ryou.
4) no
5) see above.

also, just because on your sons car it worked well, not all paints are the same. so you have to do test spots, hone in on what needs to be done for that particular car, throw out what you did on previous cars! good luck
 
Excellent advice from Paul A and cleanmycollola. They have ult polish locally. Paul A, i am in South Tampa. are you close?
 
lots to chime in on but my advice is on a PC you need to be at speed 6 for compounding and polishing. it's a low-power machines that stalls easily and you'll need it at full speed to make any progress in a timely fashion. no reason to drop below 6 unless you're spreading a sealant or jeweling wax. Mark the backing plate to insure it's not stalling and use slow arm movement.

I would suggest Ultimate Polish and an orange pad. The clear on your car is hard and you'll need the firmness of orange. It will finish out beautifully.
 
Paul A. said:
Megs Ultimate Compound and Polish are great products and should certainly cut down those swirls for you. I don't usually go any slower than speed 5 and I'm usually at 6 unless I'm applying a wax or sealant (that's at 3-4). I have never just used Ult Compound without a finishing step (Polish). The key is to work the compound enough to only need the Polish to clean up any remaining microscratches, haze etc.

I would suggest cranking that PC up, continue with the orange LC pad and slowly overlap your passes, wipe off and inspect. Then, once your happy with as much as the Compound can do, move on with the Polish and maybe a white LC pad...maybe even another fresh orange pad. Do these as test spots before starting in on the entire car. Dial in what you think looks best to you for the entire process during the test spot phase before doing the entire vehicle and sealing everything in.

Ford paint has always been on the hard side for me and I usually get fairly aggressive with it if cutting down medium to heavy marring. Some fear higher speeds but you don't have to with a Porter Cable.
Click to expand...

Paul summed it up perfectly. Crank the speed on the PC for compounding and polishing. Put a mark on your backing plate if you have not already done so to make sure the pad is rotating. Once you are happy with your test spots after inspecting with the proper lighting use that process to finish the entire car.

Complete a section at a time and seal that section if you don't have time to compound/polish the entire car in a day. This way you will be putting your best effort into each panel of the entire car. Good luck and take before/after pics for us.
 
I always ran my PC at 6 for paint correction and 5 for finishing and polishing. Even at 6 it can take a few passes depending on the paint.
 
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