Paint Decontamination Kits

KG21

KG21

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Has anyone used any of these paint decontamination/neutralization kits? Just wondering what your impressions were and if they are safe (for both the car AND me)? Any time I hear the word 'acid', I get just a little uneasy. ; )

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!!
 
mixxer said:
i have used FK1 DECON KIT worked well!
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That's actually the exact one I've been looking at mixxer. I take it that it isn't harmful to trim or any other non-painted surfaces of the car? Did you clay at the same time?

Thanks again!!
 
I haved used the one from autojoint, did a few vehicles with it with great results. Customer service reps are great for information on the products,make sure you get the whole kit,comes with with mitts to.:righton:
 
I found the FK kit (with acid wash) to be much to harsh for most cars. While it might be nice after picking up a used car or something not cared for, this kit is not really all that for well kept cars.
 
yes killr is right its really only for cars that are in bad shape, but it is safe to use and i did clay after.What kind of shape is the car in that your looking to use it on?
 
These are both 'safe' to use (human contact or paint / trim etc) as FK1 are no longer using Oxalic acid

Acid neutralizing wash - I would strongly recommend an acid neutralizing wash followed by a corrosion inhibitor on an annual or semi-annual basis. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash opens the paint fissures (pores) and will release most of the imbedded ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily by clay encapsulation. These systems will produce a better finish on the paint surface than is possible with detailer’s clay alone and is also the only solution that addresses acid rain, industrial pollutants, and tree sap etching as well as other polyurethane clear coat concerns

A three step neutralization and wash system comprises; (a) Acid Neutralizer (b) Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailer’s clay) and (c) a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination (i.e. rust) that collects on a painted finish which includes, industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, waxes/silicones, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via road salt, ferrous metal deposits. Auto International -
 
Thanks for the replies everyone!! This is very helpful. To answer your question, mixxer, I actually have 3 candidate vehicles -- a 93, 01, 03. The 93 and 01 do have some visible subsurface contamination so those are the main ones I'm concerned about. What do you guys mean when you say these kits might be too harsh for some cars? What were the results that led you to that conclusion? They're being billed as being necessary annually (dependent obviously on driving conditions, environment, etc.).

Thanks again everyone!!
 
TOGWT said:
These are both 'safe' to use (human contact or paint / trim etc) as FK1 are no longer using Oxalic acid

Acid neutralizing wash - I would strongly recommend an acid neutralizing wash followed by a corrosion inhibitor on an annual or semi-annual basis. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash opens the paint fissures (pores) and will release most of the imbedded ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily by clay encapsulation. These systems will produce a better finish on the paint surface than is possible with detailer’s clay alone and is also the only solution that addresses acid rain, industrial pollutants, and tree sap etching as well as other polyurethane clear coat concerns

A three step neutralization and wash system comprises; (a) Acid Neutralizer (b) Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailer’s clay) and (c) a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination (i.e. rust) that collects on a painted finish which includes, industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, waxes/silicones, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via road salt, ferrous metal deposits. Auto International -
Click to expand...

Does the FK Decontamination System take care of all three of these?
 
Bert31 said:
Does the FK Decontamination System take care of all three of these?
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Here's what I found on their site:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1119 / 883 DECONTAMINATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The materials in this system are, alkaline, acidic and neutral, THEY MUST BE USED IN THE SPECIFIC ORDER.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Step 1 - 1119 Soil and Coating Remover is a fully biodegradable cleaner which is alkaline based with inhibitors for safe usage. #1119 removes outer surface rust, iron oxides, soil coatings, vehicle wrap adhesives while cleaning and preparing the surface for step two.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Step 2- 883 SIRR consists of blended acids and inhibitors which actually open the pores of the paint allowing the ferrous particles to be removed by agitation. Additionally, #883 will enter the subsurface of the paint film and neutralize caustic compounds generated by ferrous particles that have penetrated paint film.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Step 3 - 118SC A heavy-duty highly active shampoo concentrate, non-clogging, non-hydrolyzing neutral soap system. #118SC when used with cold water quenches the paint surface which pops ferrous particles up and out of the paint system. #118 because of its special blend of chemicals will also neutralize acid rain surfaces as well as acidic contamination below the surface. [/FONT]
​
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]After decontamination the paint has been striped clean and left with no protection, so it is very important that a sealer be applied immediately. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Step 4 - 218 A.S. Sealant and Conditioner formulated with amino functional and polymer resins. These resins chemically create a a cationic effect which allows them to plate to the surface of the finish forming a protective web allowing paint to breath and withstand temperatures in excess of 300 degrees. In addition, #218 does not contain any harmful silicones (i.e. dimethyl silicones), which are a wet, greasy evaporative, migratory component.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]With[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] a Patented Anti Static Agent, 218 A.S. forms a shield to Kill the attraction of dust As Well As Industrial Fallout That Is Magnetically Attracted To A Vehicle.[/FONT]
​
 
TOGWT said:
These are both 'safe' to use (human contact or paint / trim etc) as FK1 are no longer using Oxalic acid
Click to expand...
Jon, once again you are a treasure trove of very valuable information! Thank you!
 
What i ment was i wouldnt use a decon kit unless an abrassive polish and clay wouldnt get it done.IMHO its kind of like dropping a bomb dont do it unless you have to. And TOGWT your a wealth of info as always!!!!!
 
mixxer said:
What i ment was i wouldnt use a decon kit unless an abrassive polish and clay wouldnt get it done.IMHO its kind of like dropping a bomb dont do it unless you have to. And TOGWT your a wealth of info as always!!!!!
Click to expand...

Clay will 'remove the top of embedded surface contaminants by abrasion, leaving some micro-slivers still embedded in the paint surface to act as a conduit for moisture (metal + moisture = rust) A decontamination system will neutralize the metal shavings so adding further moisture will have no effect.

It is possible to abrade the shavings by leveling the paint to the bottom of the metal sliver, but would you want to remove that much clear coat?
 
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TOGWT said:
These are both 'safe' to use (human contact or paint / trim etc) as FK1 are no longer using Oxalic acid

Acid neutralizing wash - I would strongly recommend an acid neutralizing wash followed by a corrosion inhibitor on an annual or semi-annual basis. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash opens the paint fissures (pores) and will release most of the imbedded ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily by clay encapsulation. These systems will produce a better finish on the paint surface than is possible with detailer’s clay alone and is also the only solution that addresses acid rain, industrial pollutants, and tree sap etching as well as other polyurethane clear coat concerns

A three step neutralization and wash system comprises; (a) Acid Neutralizer (b) Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailer’s clay) and (c) a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination (i.e. rust) that collects on a painted finish which includes, industrial fallout (IFO), rail dust, acid rain, hard water spots, road tar, bird excrement, waxes/silicones, oxidation, adhesive residue, road grime and rust stains introduced via road salt, ferrous metal deposits. Auto International -
Click to expand...


Is the Finish Care System the one you prefer?
 
Bert31 said:
Is the Finish Care System the one you prefer?
Click to expand...

My preference has always been Auto International ABC system, but their website has been down for awhile, I don't know why though.

A lot of people read 'Acid Wash', when the very opposite is true it an acid neautralizer, not extreme at all
 
Finish Kare never used oxalic acid in their decon system; they always point out that they are NOT the ones who use it.
 
Bert31 said:
What differences did you notice?
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I've been researching this quite a bit lately. The only real negative I've read about either one is that the FK kit leaves a very strong kerosene-type odor in your bucket/garage for a few days.

Thanks everyone for your help -- greatly appreciated!!
 
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