Paint Scuffs: Meguiar's Body Work or Ultimate Compound?

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magiadam

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See attached image.

Scratches are mostly paint scuffs, did not go through the metal.
My dad has an old product called Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub and it has worked on most on the scuffs and black lines above the door handle.

However, the scuffs below the door handles are much tougher. Should I keep using Meguiar's Body Work or should I get Meguiar's Ultimate Compound?
Or what would you suggest instead?

Thank you!
 
Yikes, that looks pretty bad. You are doing this by hand? UC will be easier to get results than Body Scrub (which is largely a chemical cleaner), but be careful that those marks aren't too deep. It doesn't matter if they didn't go down to the metal, they may be too deep to safely remove.
 
magiadam said:
See attached image.

Scratches are mostly paint scuffs, did not go through the metal.
My dad has an old product called Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub and it has worked on most on the scuffs and black lines above the door handle.

However, the scuffs below the door handles are much tougher. Should I keep using Meguiar's Body Work or should I get Meguiar's Ultimate Compound?
Or what would you suggest instead?

Thank you!
Click to expand...

do you have a machine? like a DA?
 
hernandez.art13 said:


^ That?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have this.
Also, to reply to your other post, I have like a rotator scrub machine. Was planning on trying that with the Body Scrub, since the rubbing by hand doesn't work on the tougher parts.
 
What exactly "Scuffed" the paint?

Looks like a semi-tractor trailer tire!
 
Here is what I would do. Test spot first,

Bring out my Compound and Polish. (Test out the polish, just to say I did but pretty sure compound will be needed, but might as well and practice the least aggressive method)

After doing a test spot with polish and if it wasn't enough, I would bring out the compound. I would then use compound and a LC Hybrid wool pad. (I really like these)

I would still do a test spot with this more aggressive combo. But then figure out what the paint wants and replicate it for the rest of the transfer.

After doing that, whatever the machine didn't remove, Since it is so big I would rub it out by hand. :)

Just watch the heat build up and keep cleaning the pad, since you wouldn't want the paint transfer accumulating on your pad and start rubbing against the paint. Scuffing it, marring it, etc...

Also, not sure what machine that is, but I would just use a machine like the PC since it's pretty gentle.
 
Art, you have no idea how bad I want one of those.



Not for my car...I need it for the floor at work.
 
Yeah, but that one you pictured is a cleaning machine, an "auto-scrubber", puts down cleaning solution and vacuums it up with the squeegee behind the pad.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, but that one you pictured is a cleaning machine, an "auto-scrubber", puts down cleaning solution and vacuums it up with the squeegee behind the pad.
Click to expand...

oh..., don't really know the differences with that. I just watched YouTube video to try and help a friend that asked for my help. So I told her "sure I''ll help you out" :props:
 
Well, there's a lot of similarities between floor care and paint care, you're doing cleaning, polishing, sealing.
 
sometimes it's the method of application and not the polish/compound itself that can dictate how aggressive it can/will be. if i'm not mistaken, the megs clear coat body scrub is basically like the deep crystal paint cleaner that was offered years ago and is pretty mild compared to ultimate compound and won't do much (if at all) to remove defects. use a foam applicator with the ultimate compound (buy some, it's one product that wouldn't hurt to have in the arsenal) and a little elbow grease and do a test spot and see what happens...
 
VISITOR said:
sometimes it's the method of application and not the polish/compound itself that can dictate how aggressive it can/will be. if i'm not mistaken, the megs clear coat body scrub is basically like the deep crystal paint cleaner that was offered years ago and is pretty mild compared to ultimate compound and won't do much (if at all) to remove defects.
Click to expand...

The above is correct. Both the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner and the Body Scrub offerd little to no abrading ability so very little ability to actually remove paint and thus level the suface and remove the defects.

Using Ultimate Compound would be much faster....





magiadam said:
Scratches are mostly paint scuffs, did not go through the metal.
My dad has an old product called Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub and it has worked on most on the scuffs and black lines above the door handle.

However, the scuffs below the door handles are much tougher. Should I keep using Meguiar's Body Work or should I get Meguiar's Ultimate Compound?
Or what would you suggest instead?

Thank you!
Click to expand...


Are you talking about paint transfer?

How How To remove Paint Transfer off your car's paint

PaintTransfer001.jpg




Either way...

you're going to need a clearcoat safe compound.

See this article too....

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand


:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The above is correct. Both the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner and the Body Scrub offered little to no abrading ability so very little ability to actually remove paint and thus level the surface and remove the defects.

Using Ultimate Compound would be much faster....
Click to expand...

Ultimate Compound > Clear Coat Body Scrub?

The extra-abrasiveness of Ultimate Compound won't go through the clear coat?
 
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