Paint still rough to the touch after clay bar

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This is the first time this has happened to me. I was cleaning and claying a one year old Ford Fusion in pearl white. The car has been driven but the paint looked pretty good but when I felt it and looked closer into the paint I could see black specs. I clayed using my Meguiars clay bar an Opt no rinse and this always has worked for me but not this time. The horizonal surfaces are still rough to the touch. What is the next step to get these bonded contaminants off-a decontamination like Iron X or should I go with one of the newer clay like towels? Thanks
 
I'l let others chime in, but just wondering how aggressive is the Meg's clay that you used.

I saw at Meguiar's 101 that the the Meg's guys brought out one of the most aggressive clay bars Meguiar's sells. From my understanding it was more aggressive than Nano Medium.

It was for a old ignored single stage BMW

Good Luck
 
Try a more aggressive clay bar or clay alternative.

I've found that on most cars, you need something that is at least as aggressive as Nanoskin med-grade.

The fine grade bars seem to work best on cars that are very well maintained.
 
It was Meguiar's white colored clay-I believe that is a mild clay but I am not sure.
 
I use the same clay andc find it to me mild.
Might need to move up to a more aggressive clay.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
 
You will need to step it up with a medium clay. I would go with a clay alternative like the speedy prep towel or if you have a DA then a pad is a no brainer. You can get the car done in a matter of 15 mins.

If you are going to be using something more aggressive then you will need to polish afterwords. There is a chance you will induce some marring of the paint.
 
Evan.J said:
You will need to step it up with a medium clay. I would go with a clay alternative like the speedy prep towel or if you have a DA then a pad is a no brainer. You can get the car done in a matter of 15 mins.

If you are going to be using something more aggressive then you will need to polish afterwords. There is a chance you will induce some marring of the paint.
Click to expand...

:iagree: If their not paying for any paint correction be careful how far you go with it or it will come out of your pocket if you mar up the car.
 
I'd give the Iron X a try. I have the same color and always find that clay doesn't pull out all of the contaminates.
You'll be surprised at how better the paint looks and feels after Iron X.
 
I did a pearl white Milan and had same problem. Turned out the car was covered in tar and iron spots. TarX and IronX took care of it.
 
I had a similar situation with a 2006 Cadillac CTS. I clayed and while it picked up quite a bit the paint was not as smoothe as I expected. I needed to do two rounds of IronX to get a point where some progress was being made. Still, paint was not as smoothe as I expected it to be.

I just went right into polishing and boy did I realize that it is hard to see oxidized silver paint. So with my Flex DA, a yellow cutting pad and Menz IS-1500 we were rolling. I finished with Megs 205 and wah-lah..... smoothe city.
 
wdmaccord said:
I did a pearl white Milan and had same problem. Turned out the car was covered in tar and iron spots. TarX and IronX took care of it.
Click to expand...

Reading my mind there. :iagree:

Wonder if anyone has tried (mild) claying, using IronX as a lubricant? :dunno:
(Of course that'd relegate that clay to IronX forever and ever, but.....):idea:
 
cardaddy said:
Wonder if anyone has tried (mild) claying, using IronX as a lubricant? :dunno:
(Of course that'd relegate that clay to IronX forever and ever, but.....):idea:
Click to expand...
Probably be quite an effective lubricant...

But I don't know how enjoyable breathing in those:
"salon de coiffure"-fumes during a claying-session would be.
ack.gif



Proper PPE...without a doubt...would be a MUST HAVE!

Bob
 
How much downward pressure on the clay are you using?
Makes a big difference.
 
FUNX725 said:
Probably be quite an effective lubricant...

But I don't know how enjoyable breathing in those:
"salon de coiffure" -fumes during a claying-session would be.
ack.gif



Proper PPE...without a doubt...would be a MUST HAVE!
Click to expand...

Probably WHY it's not been tried, ya' think Bob? ;)

Ahhhh, the "salon de coiffure", I was raised in those freaking fumes (for real). :) Early on my Dad owned a dry cleaning plant, boy were those the days. OTOH, he did teach me to drive the Econoline van when I was 9, three on the tree. ;)

Then to keep up the fuming sessions. My parents had 3 salons starting around 68 through the mid 80's. Shampooed hair as a kid when I was out of school on breaks. (Wasn't all bad as they were friends of my Mom, and they tended to tip great tippers, especially around Christmas.)
 
cardaddy said:
Wonder if anyone has tried (mild) claying, using IronX as a lubricant? :dunno:
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, I have seen a video of Corey (CEEDOG) using a clay alternative (probably the CarPro clay alternative block or something of the sort) using Iron-X Paste as lubricant.

He said that this was very effective, as you could imagine - the best of both worlds. The Iron-X Paste would allow more control when applying and have less waste than using the Iron-X Spray.

You may have to supplement the Iron-X Paste with some clay-type lubricant (QD, WW, etc.). Any way, I would think that you should work panel by panel to ensure that it does not have an adverse effect on the paint clear coat. Spray down the panel and move on and then I think you would destroy any contaminants! :xyxthumbs:
 
I used Meguiars clay bar kit. On new well maintained cars i think its ok but most of the time i could not get the rough felling out. I used ONR as a lube. I had to go to a medium bar and use Wolf's Chemicals Deironizer Decon Gel first to remove contaminates. Its cheaper then iron x but i feel its worth it because i am use medium clay after the gel. The medium clay bar mars the the clear coat but i always polish after words.
 
I think I remember reading that Mike Phillips will use a foam gun loaded with car shampoo and use that as his clay lube. Is that correct? I've been rinsing the car thoroughly and lightly drying it before applying Glide and using my Nanoskin mit. If car shampoo is acceptable as a lube, it would make life a bit faster and easier.
 
I had a very rough new car to do a while ago.
I started out gently and after the normal steps the paint was still rough and I could see the little red rail dust specks still embedded in the paint. I had only used the very fine blue Clay Magic.

What finally worked was washing the car (normal soap) going over the paint with red Aggressive Clay Magic, then treating the car with Iron-X. That finally removed all the rail dust and gave me a perfectly smooth starting point.
From then on it was just a typical polishing and finishing job. I used SIP with a rotary, PO85 with a gold pad also on a rotary, then CQuartz.
 
I have found when using ONR, that if you don't dilute it enough, it will skim over the surface and remove very little.

I thought it was just me but, mike Stoops confirmed that some products are too slick to use effectively when claying. That is why Meguiar's includes the "Old" Quick Lube (red bottle) in their clay kit instead of the newer detail sprays.


Optimum recommends 2oz per gallon for clay lube.

That is only 1/4 ounce of ONR in a 16oz spray bottle.
 
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