Paint thickness questions

choijw2

choijw2

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Hello geeks.

I am getting a lot more polishing jobs and finally decided to look into PTG.

but before few questions.


I was told that usually primer (30um) + base coat (30um) = 60um. so if total paint thickness is meaused at 80um, you have about 20um thick of clear coat to work.

is this true for most paints?

So if total paint thickness is 120um, is prime + base coat is still 60um? or does primer and base coat thickness also increase?

How about soft paint vs hard paint?
 
I always wondered the same here is a link Automotive OEM Coatings : BASF Coatings GmbH that gives some more insight. All that you just mentioned varies from one manufacturer to the next. My rule of thumb is about 1.25mil or roughly 31microns.

As far as soft paint and hard paint your best bet is doing test spots with a couple pad/polish combos that get you the results your customer is paying for.
 
I wonder how many people actually use PTG that can separate primer / base coat / clear coat ....
 
That tool is not designed for automotive work per the manufacturer.
The industry average is 1.5 to 2.5 mils. It depends on the manufacturer, I have had Honda cars in here with 3.5 mils total. CRZ's I've done have less. If you don't go anymore than.5 mils you should be ok.
 
choijw2 said:
Hello geeks.

I am getting a lot more polishing jobs and finally decided to look into PTG.

but before few questions.


I was told that usually primer (30um) + base coat (30um) = 60um. so if total paint thickness is meaused at 80um, you have about 20um thick of clear coat to work.

is this true for most paints?

So if total paint thickness is 120um, is prime + base coat is still 60um? or does primer and base coat thickness also increase? I like to use measurements from under the hood or door jam.

How about soft paint vs hard paint?
Click to expand...
Do you mean if it affects the thickness of the paint or polishing in general?
 
Rsurfer said:
Do you mean if it affects the thickness of the paint or polishing in general?
Click to expand...

Ah, door jam and under the hood is not clear coated right?

and I meant the thickness of the paint.
 
choijw2 said:
Hello geeks.

I am getting a lot more polishing jobs and finally decided to look into PTG.

but before few questions.


I was told that usually primer (30um) + base coat (30um) = 60um. so if total paint thickness is meaused at 80um, you have about 20um thick of clear coat to work.

is this true for most paints?

So if total paint thickness is 120um, is prime + base coat is still 60um? or does primer and base coat thickness also increase?

How about soft paint vs hard paint?
Click to expand...
you don't need a paint gauge.After the purchase you will find that you won't be using it save your money.
 
If you're compounding and polishing on modern paint without one, you really need to learn about paint!
 
choijw2 said:
Ah, door jam and under the hood is not clear coated right? It is, but very thinly and that's why it's a good gauge.
reand I meant the thickness of the paint.
Click to expand...
Dunno, but it seems the hard clear coats (GM) have the highest readings were as the Asian cars have the thinnest readings and the softest clear.
 
Normally the primer and basecoat are the same ( 2 coats each) so it is the clear that makes up the rest. Hardness or softnest has no bearing on thickness. The 30 primer, 30 basecoat seems close to me, so rest is clear. Now if it is a recoat then you need to speak to the painter to see how far he stripped the previous paint or how many coats of clear he applied. The idea of the guage is to give you an idea of how much paint you have to work with ( the clearcoat- think posti- note analogy).
 
choijw2 said:
Hello geeks.

I am getting a lot more polishing jobs and finally decided to look into PTG.

but before few questions.


I was told that usually primer (30um) + base coat (30um) = 60um. so if total paint thickness is meaused at 80um, you have about 20um thick of clear coat to work.

is this true for most paints?

So if total paint thickness is 120um, is prime + base coat is still 60um? or does primer and base coat thickness also increase?

How about soft paint vs hard paint?
Click to expand...

You'd have 20 microns to work with but you can't remove it all. Not even half.

So you actually have about 5 to remove total.
 
Riff said:
You'd have 20 microns to work with but you can't remove it all. Not even half.

So you actually have about 5 to remove total.
Click to expand...

ha, thats like.... one compound + polishing on mazda paint lol

what is the reason?
 
Mike lambert said:
If you're compounding and polishing on modern paint without one, you really need to learn about paint!
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more, after compound and polishing paint for year and years now, I would never trust a detailer that didn't have one. I don't like playing the paint thickness guessing game with a $3K or a $450K car.
 
Doorjambs are clearcoated.. However, don't expect to get the most accurate reading from a doorjamb or underneath the hood as those areas tend to be held to a lower standard / don't need to be as perfect as the exterior panels.
 
Oh boy. If you don't have a PTG you are inviting trouble if you are doing something other than just washing and waxing or working on factory paint that you are absolutely certain hasn't been touched by a body shop or hack detailer. How are you going to know if it's safe to rub on? By looking at it? I recently was asked to look at an old toronado (1970) with factory paint. It looked good from a distance but up close needed defect removal. When I put my PTG on it it revealed readings as low as 1.2 and averaged 2.0. Had I not measured and started rubbing there was a real good chance of permanently screwing up the guys car. Now you're on the hook, you don't get second chances and saying sorry just doesn't cut it. I check every car I work on and have been surprised once in a while by what looked fine to rub on but not so. A PTG will can give you a clue as to how to proceed with compounds/polishes or what pads to use or what speed may be safe with your machine. If you're a washer/water detailer and don't do a lot of paint restoration MAYBE you don't need one, but if you're a guy that works on exotics/vintage/or re-sprays, you BETTER have one.
 
Years of experience on working on exotics airplanes or a Honda,common sense and paint condition will tell you what and how you are gonna tackle such a job safely.If you have a history of burning thru paint then maybe get one.I know a lot of pro guys that polish out 1 million dollar vintage cars and don't use or have one.I can see maybe having one if your doing dampsanding jobs,again you know the threshold of certain paint systems from experience.If you just started out or have 10 years still not enough experience and maybe need a gauge.
 
Regardless your experience, I say PTG is very good practice.
I have seen youtube video, this guy polishing 20 years old japanese car
and when he polished front fender, I saw paint transfer to the pad.

That suspect me, front fender clear coats are almost gone or partially gone.

There is no way we can tell how much clear coats are left on the car without PTG, thats just simple fact.

Of course it would been different story if you exclusively work on only new cars.
 
BTW I am sorry if my question was confusing.

Basically my questions was, how do I tell clear coat thickness from PTG thats gives you only total thickness.
 
I don't mean to thread jack or anything, but this is also related. In addition to the above question, what PTG do you guys recommend for detailers?
 
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