Paint Thickness: Single Stage vs. Clear coat
- Thread starter mcpp66
- Start date
DLB
New member
- Jul 13, 2009
- 1,211
- 0
There isn't a cover all answer.
I have a single stage paint job on my '71 GMC truck - but I had it painted, it isn't a factory job. Now, I know that my painter but down a really thick base primer, then a coat of color matched primer, then 3 coats of the paint itself. So, it is a pretty thick job.
My dad has a 1985 Chevrolet truck with the original single stage paint on it. After 24 years of polishing and waxing, the paint and primer are gone is several spots (mostly the hood). Now the best shine you can put down on that is just give a coat of non-cleaning wax, and let it shine for a couple of weeks. No more oxidation removal, as it would just take valuable paint with it.
The biggest difference in the two is the hardness. Typically, Single Stage paints are pretty soft. Some are VERY soft. The one I had put on my truck was baked on and it is relatively hard. You still lose paint when you polish it, but it doesn't scratch when you rub your hand across it.
Generally, I would take the same stance as VR8 on the "thickness" side of it, as his logic makes sense (they now use as little as possible in the way of materials to save money). However, if some manufacturer used 2 thin coats for SS and 3 thin coats for BC/CC, well, you can do the math.
So, it all just depends.
DLB
I have a single stage paint job on my '71 GMC truck - but I had it painted, it isn't a factory job. Now, I know that my painter but down a really thick base primer, then a coat of color matched primer, then 3 coats of the paint itself. So, it is a pretty thick job.
My dad has a 1985 Chevrolet truck with the original single stage paint on it. After 24 years of polishing and waxing, the paint and primer are gone is several spots (mostly the hood). Now the best shine you can put down on that is just give a coat of non-cleaning wax, and let it shine for a couple of weeks. No more oxidation removal, as it would just take valuable paint with it.
The biggest difference in the two is the hardness. Typically, Single Stage paints are pretty soft. Some are VERY soft. The one I had put on my truck was baked on and it is relatively hard. You still lose paint when you polish it, but it doesn't scratch when you rub your hand across it.
Generally, I would take the same stance as VR8 on the "thickness" side of it, as his logic makes sense (they now use as little as possible in the way of materials to save money). However, if some manufacturer used 2 thin coats for SS and 3 thin coats for BC/CC, well, you can do the math.
So, it all just depends.
DLB
it depends from manufacturer and what kind of paints they use, you would have to ask car manufacturer specific.
for example on honda
single stage is around 60-70 microns on white honda civic (2002),
honda accord 2004 black pearl with clear coat is around 130 (thats my average) now i dont have fancy paint gage that tells me each coat thickness so i cant tell you that 60-70 microns is clear coat on top of actual paint. generaly with clear coat paints half of the thickness is clear coat but thats if car was not corrected before
if i had my paint gague when i did SS red ferrari i could have done comparison but i didnt. when we do one again in spring ill take readings of course
for example on honda
single stage is around 60-70 microns on white honda civic (2002),
honda accord 2004 black pearl with clear coat is around 130 (thats my average) now i dont have fancy paint gage that tells me each coat thickness so i cant tell you that 60-70 microns is clear coat on top of actual paint. generaly with clear coat paints half of the thickness is clear coat but thats if car was not corrected before
if i had my paint gague when i did SS red ferrari i could have done comparison but i didnt. when we do one again in spring ill take readings of course
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
No easy answer.
When you measure paint thickness you measure total film-build, not just the part you're working on so it's hard to tell how thick the layer is you can work on .
Single stage pants tend to be softer than clear coat paints except for white paint and for this reason you want to always practice,
"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"
You want to practice tis anyways for all paint types. Also keep in mind if you're working on an antique car with original single stage paints, you have no idea how many people have worked on the paint before you let along what they may have used so be extra careful on antique cars with single stage paints.
No easy answer.
When you measure paint thickness you measure total film-build, not just the part you're working on so it's hard to tell how thick the layer is you can work on .
Single stage pants tend to be softer than clear coat paints except for white paint and for this reason you want to always practice,
"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"
You want to practice tis anyways for all paint types. Also keep in mind if you're working on an antique car with original single stage paints, you have no idea how many people have worked on the paint before you let along what they may have used so be extra careful on antique cars with single stage paints.
for antique cars, work only if you have paint gauge, if you dont, then dont do it at all
did 63 jaguar and it already had paint missing on hood, this gave us idea where to be careful when polishing
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/sy272004/Car Details/1962 jaguar/
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