PC 7424...insight needed!

KJW Detailing

KJW Detailing

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Hello!

Now i know that i could search and find all of this info (im not new to the forum thing) but i prefer to here it from you to the exact questions i will be asking!

I work at a Lexus dealership, if i ever need to do any buffing (cutting the paint, taking out srcatches, imperfections, swirl marks, oxidation, and anything else) i use a rotary buffer...i was taught on one...i have yet to have any problems and i have new burnt any paint at this point...knock on wood!

Anyway, i am trying to understand the differences b/t a buffer rotary style and that of the PC 7424...

I watched the video of the PC7424...it does great work but come on you guys dont go through all of those steps everytime you wax a car do you? and secondly, if you do go through all 4 of those steps, how long does it take you to do the exterior (paint) of a car?

Now, differences b/t the styles - rotary operates at a very high rate of speed which could burn the paint (i know that when i am cutting or polishing i generally have it set around 2000-2200 rpm...and yes the paint can get hot)...and i have learned that the PC is almost impossible to burn paint but at the same time then how does it heat up the clear coat and paint enough to blend everything back to looking showroom new?

If anyone has any other information that they feel would be benefical i would love to here it! the more info the better!

I guess i could see myself using the PC on my personal car b/c its always in great shape but on a car like some that come into lexus im not really sure it could do the job...

Thanks!
 
If you're comfortable using a Rotary, stay with it, it'll be much quicker and more effective.

The PC has a point where it can't really work as well. It doesn't generate near as much heat as a rotary therefore the rougher compounds are not very effective with the PC.

I can only talk about the XMT line for polishes. I can get the paint LSP ready after a yellow cut pad and XMT 3, so only one step. Also, this will get most (if not all) blemishes out of the paint. XMT 4 just came out which is a heavy compound (yet to use), I know Justin has used it with yellow pad and his surface was LSP ready as well. So, only one step.
 
thanks for the reply...first of all (haha) what does LSP ready mean?
 
I agree with Whitethunder, if you have experience with the rotary stay with it. The PC is great but it takes longer to get results you are used to getting with the rotary.

There was a person here before who went from rotary to PC and found it painfully slow...wish I could remember his name but I can't right now. Anywho, after a good "discussion" here the final verdict was that he was going to stick with the rotary because it was faster and it cut down on detailing time.

I just purchased a rotary my self and I have noticed that it does brake down the polish much faster but I definitely do not use it at the speed you use it at 2,000rpm yikes to fast for me dude...I'm taking baby steps..heck I'm still between 700 to 1000 rpm lol
 
along the topic of a rotary...i know work i have a Dewalt...

what are some good brands as far as rotary goes?

also, with a rotary, can i use it to apply waxes? if i dial down the speed way down?

also, what are some good rotary wool and polish pad brands?

thanks!
 
A good rotary is Metabo, I plan on getting this.

Pads - I know Edge had some rotary pads and LC does as well.

Would not want to apply wax or sealant with a rotary, most don't even like doing it with the PC. The pads are so soft they just soak up the wax/sealant. I like to simply apply by hand. You can buff off the wax though with a very soft pad and PC.

LSP = Last Surface Product? something like that, anyways, it's basically your wax or sealant or whatever you use to protect the paint after polishing.
 
cool thanks!

now agian with a rotary...i want to do a summer business detailing...it would be a traveling business unless a buddy of mine at lexus actually opens a garage in his backyad which then i have my own bay!

but anyway can i still use a rotary in the summer, under the sun? i know that it's not even recommened to wax a car in the sun let alone use a buffer (i would think this would spell disastor...so how do i get arond this?

Thanks!
 
roadrunner1659 said:
cool thanks!

now agian with a rotary...i want to do a summer business detailing...it would be a traveling business unless a buddy of mine at lexus actually opens a garage in his backyad which then i have my own bay!

but anyway can i still use a rotary in the summer, under the sun? i know that it's not even recommened to wax a car in the sun let alone use a buffer (i would think this would spell disastor...so how do i get arond this?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Well, most of the people around here use the PC so I'm not 100% sure. My guess tho is to use a good polishing/compound that works in the sun. Optimum is supposed to work well in the sun since it has a long working time, also it works well with rotary. (This is all what I've heard for the rotary)
 
anyone else have any thoughts on using a rotary buffer out under the sun in the summer? as well as what products to use...
 
roadrunner1659 said:
anyone else have any thoughts on using a rotary buffer out under the sun in the summer? as well as what products to use...
Click to expand...
Man, I want to learn how to use a rotary. I've been using it some, I get tails sometimes, and go back with my PC and get the tails out. What I'm I doing wrong?
 
um...what are "tails"?

Sorry don't mean to go off topic...just wondering that's all.
 
sparkie said:
Man, I want to learn how to use a rotary. I've been using it some, I get tails sometimes, and go back with my PC and get the tails out. What I'm I doing wrong?
Click to expand...

Is it possible to get this with the PC? I used XMT4 the other day with a yellow and green pad on that Orange Acura RSX I did. It left what I would call trails as well. Orange pad and XMT2 got them out easily, but I couldn't figure it out.
 
Nica said:
um...what are "tails"?

Sorry don't mean to go off topic...just wondering that's all.
Click to expand...

I am going to guess buffer swirls and holograms.
 
i get the buffer swirls sometimes and the holograms but they easily come out with when i polish the car...although i have to say (and i hope you are all proud of me) but the other day i detailed an employees BWM M3 (not sure what year but like 98-02 maybe) anyway it had terrible swirls and the paint just looked bad...

i came through with the rotary on 1400 (thats right 1400) with a wool pad and 1500 (ardex)...those swirls and scratches came out and it was looking goooooooooood! then i brought out the polish pad and i used pearl (another ardex product)...that BMW came out looking AMAZING! not flaweless but AMAZING from the prior condition!

after wax it had a much deeper shine and the pearl was shining through! wish i had a camera!
 
Whitethunder46 said:
Is it possible to get this with the PC? I used XMT4 the other day with a yellow and green pad on that Orange Acura RSX I did. It left what I would call trails as well. Orange pad and XMT2 got them out easily, but I couldn't figure it out.
Click to expand...
Buffer trails are light scratches in the paint left by not fully breaking down the polish. This is common in body shops, as they are usually in a hurry.

You can go over it with a light polish and that should get rid of the trails.
 
roadrunner1659 said:
i get the buffer swirls sometimes and the holograms but they easily come out with when i polish the car...although i have to say (and i hope you are all proud of me) but the other day i detailed an employees BWM M3 (not sure what year but like 98-02 maybe) anyway it had terrible swirls and the paint just looked bad...

i came through with the rotary on 1400 (thats right 1400) with a wool pad and 1500 (ardex)...those swirls and scratches came out and it was looking goooooooooood! then i brought out the polish pad and i used pearl (another ardex product)...that BMW came out looking AMAZING! not flaweless but AMAZING from the prior condition!

after wax it had a much deeper shine and the pearl was shining through! wish i had a camera!
Click to expand...
And I'm sure their CC took a major hit! :( Wool pad + buffer = ouch

That's why I always start off with the PC. ;)
 
I was under the impression that wool pads create large amounts of heat, specially with the rotary and you need to be extremely carfull with them? I don't know that's just what I've read. I guess when I start venturing to wool pads I'll find out but for now I'll stick to foam pads.
 
Nica said:
I was under the impression that wool pads create large amounts of heat, specially with the rotary and you need to be extremely carfull with them? I don't know that's just what I've read. I guess when I start venturing to wool pads I'll find out but for now I'll stick to foam pads.
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NEVER venture into them. Foam pads are enough. Wool pads will eat through the CC if not careful enough like butttta.

EDGE pads, a small rotary and a good polish is ALL you need. You PROBABLY could have gotten those swirls out with a mild polish, with a mild pad with a rotary on 1,000 RPM's. Very rarely do you need an extremely abrasive pad (wool pad), with a rotary on 1,400 RPM's with an aggressive polish.

Rotarys create large amounts of heat needed to break down very abrasive polishes. That's why with rotarys you can get by with an EDGE Orange pad and XMT #4.

I still don't recommend the use of #4 on the PC without a good amount of experience. It can be very harsh to the paint, because generally a PC cannot create enough heat to fully break down the polish. It requires lots of pressure to apply what heat the PC DOES create, to the paint. Thus, "buffer trails" are born.

It's not really the PC experience I'm worried about, its the experience with using polishes and the PC and knowing when they are broken down completly.

I still believe in the least aggressive method first, but to each his own.


Just my humble opinion.





-Nick :cheers:
 
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i have never had a problem with using the wool pads...at most i get get all of the major stuff out and then i come back over with a polish pad and polish to complete it...

i can only go by what i was taught...

since being here i have learned not to operate above 1500rpms...

...so whats next...
 
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