Petrucci_M3
New member
- Oct 19, 2007
- 247
- 0
Petrucci Detailed: Black Land Rover LR3
Wash:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Gilmour Foam Gun
Clayed:
Pinnacle’s Ultra Poly Clay
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Paint Correction:
Flex 3403
3M Backing Plate
Menzerna Power Gloss
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
Menzerna Nano Polish
Menzerna PO85RD
50/50 alcohol/water wipe down
CM5300
Purple Wool LC pad
Orange LC pad
White LC pad
Grey LC pad
Blue LC pad
Detailer Domain Uber Towels
Highline Paint Gauge Meter
Protection:
Jetseal109
LSP:
Pinnacle Souveran
Trim:
303 Aerospace
Chemical Guys Silk Shine Dressing
Interior:
Leatherique Pristine Clean
Leatherique Rejuvenating Oil
1Z Cockpit
303 Aerospace
Chemical Guy’s Lighting Fast Stain Extractor
Metro Vac n Blow
Lil Green Bissel
Wheels:
EZ Detail Brush
Swissvax Wheel Brush
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
Mother’s Wheel Polish
Wash:
Started out with the wheels first and then rinsed off the trunk. Then loaded up my foam cannon with ## CGW and let the foam dwell. Then I proceeded to clay bar the truck, surpassingly there was not much on the body just on the lower panels
Interior:
I started with the interior first, after the car was dry and masked up with 3M tape. The interior was very easy to work with. Method here was vacuum first and then extract the soiled carpet with the Bissell. I then dressed all the panels with 303 aerospace and warmed up the Leatherique Oil for a few seconds in the microwave. Using gloves, I massaged each seat with the oil and let it sit over the weekend.
Before:
Leatherique Application:
Interior After:
Paint Correction:
After the interior was complete I took my paint gauge and went around the entire vehicle measuring how much clear I had to work with. The average readings around were averaging from the lowest of 127 to 200 micrometers. The only thing that caught my attention was the rear panel on the passenger side. There were readings all over the place. I had an average of 205 in some spots and some were up to 900, 500 and 600, obviously that area was repaired. There was also a terrible wet sand job and buffing, I just don’t understand how people can leave a car/truck in that condition and think it looks okay for the owner.
The paint, as you can see, was in dire need of help. The truck was a lease return and my client just acquired the vehicle I could tell the paint was never correct. I knew that I would have to use Powergloss with a wool pad. But in some areas all I needed was SIP with a orange pad and 106ff and a white pad. During a few of my process I experienced the dreaded sticky panel syndrome, this just drove me nuts as my polish would just gum up within five to ten seconds of the lowest speed. This was tricky and required extra time for those panels. I also noticed that the paint was super soft, which can cause headaches for those with “OCD,” even the slightest touch marred the paint. After the panels were corrected, I jeweled the paint with PO85rd on a Blue CCS pad with variable speeds.
Driver’s Fender Before
Driver’s Fender After
Driver’s Door Before
Wash:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Gilmour Foam Gun
Clayed:
Pinnacle’s Ultra Poly Clay
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Paint Correction:
Flex 3403
3M Backing Plate
Menzerna Power Gloss
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
Menzerna Nano Polish
Menzerna PO85RD
50/50 alcohol/water wipe down
CM5300
Purple Wool LC pad
Orange LC pad
White LC pad
Grey LC pad
Blue LC pad
Detailer Domain Uber Towels
Highline Paint Gauge Meter
Protection:
Jetseal109
LSP:
Pinnacle Souveran
Trim:
303 Aerospace
Chemical Guys Silk Shine Dressing
Interior:
Leatherique Pristine Clean
Leatherique Rejuvenating Oil
1Z Cockpit
303 Aerospace
Chemical Guy’s Lighting Fast Stain Extractor
Metro Vac n Blow
Lil Green Bissel
Wheels:
EZ Detail Brush
Swissvax Wheel Brush
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
Mother’s Wheel Polish
Wash:
Started out with the wheels first and then rinsed off the trunk. Then loaded up my foam cannon with ## CGW and let the foam dwell. Then I proceeded to clay bar the truck, surpassingly there was not much on the body just on the lower panels
Interior:
I started with the interior first, after the car was dry and masked up with 3M tape. The interior was very easy to work with. Method here was vacuum first and then extract the soiled carpet with the Bissell. I then dressed all the panels with 303 aerospace and warmed up the Leatherique Oil for a few seconds in the microwave. Using gloves, I massaged each seat with the oil and let it sit over the weekend.
Before:
Leatherique Application:
Interior After:
Paint Correction:
After the interior was complete I took my paint gauge and went around the entire vehicle measuring how much clear I had to work with. The average readings around were averaging from the lowest of 127 to 200 micrometers. The only thing that caught my attention was the rear panel on the passenger side. There were readings all over the place. I had an average of 205 in some spots and some were up to 900, 500 and 600, obviously that area was repaired. There was also a terrible wet sand job and buffing, I just don’t understand how people can leave a car/truck in that condition and think it looks okay for the owner.
The paint, as you can see, was in dire need of help. The truck was a lease return and my client just acquired the vehicle I could tell the paint was never correct. I knew that I would have to use Powergloss with a wool pad. But in some areas all I needed was SIP with a orange pad and 106ff and a white pad. During a few of my process I experienced the dreaded sticky panel syndrome, this just drove me nuts as my polish would just gum up within five to ten seconds of the lowest speed. This was tricky and required extra time for those panels. I also noticed that the paint was super soft, which can cause headaches for those with “OCD,” even the slightest touch marred the paint. After the panels were corrected, I jeweled the paint with PO85rd on a Blue CCS pad with variable speeds.
Driver’s Fender Before
Driver’s Fender After
Driver’s Door Before
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