Ph levels????

Excessive Detail

New member
Joined
Apr 16, 2006
Messages
1,166
Reaction score
0
Okay so I have somewhat of a clue to this and how it works, and yes googled various charts about it, but can someone explain to me the ph levels and how it relates to car detailing products. I know ph neutral stuff is basically safe, ex; care wash soaps, but I have read the specks on some other products, some are considered acidic, some alkaline, some acidic but still considered neutral. And I know certain finishes or metals you cant use certain ph levels, idk just kinda lost all over. Thanks.
 
I recommend you go with a safe All Purpose Cleaner like Optimum Power Clean that is alkaline and dilute as needed or use full strength on the hard stuff. It is paint safe full strength. P211S Total Auto Wash works well too from what Ive read,
 
Where are you JonMiles?

Ok. PH is a grading scale of acidic to alkaline (Basic) with the strongest oxidizing acids with a PH of 1 and the strongest reduction bases at PH 14. Neutral is a PH of 7 with pure water, although regular spring water is normally one side of 7 or another. Neutral will probably use more surfactants to emulsify the grime.

Cleaners can run the gamut of acidic to neutral to basic. PH depends on formulation and how the product is supposed to work. A neutral cleaner should be the safest but acids and bases work better to break chemical bonds with some contaminants.

Think of it this way, you make ceviche out of fresh fish with lemon and lime juice. It cooks the fish with acids in the citrus. Citrus cleaners will probably tend towards the acidic. Acids will oxidize or rust metals so you want to be careful. Lye (a base) is used to turn fats into soap. We use chlorine bleach to whiten our cloths or remove stains. A number of cleaning products will be alkaline in nature. Alkaline solutions will bleach out colors and turn your skin into soap. Think how your skin feels after getting a little bleach on your hands. Both acids and bases do great things with the appropriate applications. Each will have positive and negative attributes.

A good policy is to use the least aggressive product first and use more aggressive products as necessary. Let the chemists make products and share what works and what doesn't work amongst us.

Does that help at all? Where are you Jon?
 
Where are you JonMiles?

Ok. PH is a grading scale of acidic to alkaline (Basic) with the strongest oxidizing acids with a PH of 1 and the strongest reduction bases at PH 14. Neutral is a PH of 7 with pure water, although regular spring water is normally one side of 7 or another. Neutral will probably use more surfactants to emulsify the grime.

Cleaners can run the gamut of acidic to neutral to basic. PH depends on formulation and how the product is supposed to work. A neutral cleaner should be the safest but acids and bases work better to break chemical bonds with some contaminants.

Think of it this way, you make ceviche out of fresh fish with lemon and lime juice. It cooks the fish with acids in the citrus. Citrus cleaners will probably tend towards the acidic. Acids will oxidize or rust metals so you want to be careful. Lye (a base) is used to turn fats into soap. We use chlorine bleach to whiten our cloths or remove stains. A number of cleaning products will be alkaline in nature. Alkaline solutions will bleach out colors and turn your skin into soap. Think how your skin feels after getting a little bleach on your hands. Both acids and bases do great things with the appropriate applications. Each will have positive and negative attributes.

A good policy is to use the least aggressive product first and use more aggressive products as necessary. Let the chemists make products and share what works and what doesn't work amongst us.

Does that help at all? Where are you Jon?

I'm here Kurt.

Very nice explanation of the pH basics. For the most part, in cleaning surfaces pH refers to intensity because all pH really is telling us is the concentration of protons in a solution.

The goal of a product is one of two things. to neutralize grime or to release grime. For instance most soils are acidic in nature and can be neutralized with an alkaline solution. This is why many all-purpose cleaners are alkaline and the strength can be determined by dilution. Acidic cleaners are great for releasing alkaline contamination. As Kurt mentioned previously, acids can rust metals. But, acids can also dissolve metal oxides, such as brake dust.

The real meaning in the pH scale with cleaning supplies is that one needs to neutralize the ions of a particular problem in order for surfactants to effectively emulsify the dirt, oil, stain, bugs, etc. The pH may also contribute to the ability of the engineered surfactant to chemically react and do its job.

To sum everything said up, there is a lot more to the cleaning ability than pH alone. It is a complex mix of surfactant behavior, pH, concentrations, emulsification, transport mechanisms, redox, chemical species, and in recent cases polymerization.
 
Well it all makes a lot more since now, thanks for all the help. So basically your using one side of the chart to equal out the other side, things that are acidic are neutralized by things that are bases, but ultimately try to stay around something neutral, much safer. Does that sound right, correct me if im wrong. It almost sounds like its safer to go with alkaline, with respect to dilution ratio?
 
I find it more fun to just try all the different products and find the ones I like. I often find PH levels are best left to chemist and my wheel cleaners of choice.
 
Kurt & John, damn good descriptions. Reminds me why I only took 2 quarters of Chemistry. Daughter got that aptitude and is a Chemical Engineer!
 
Back
Top