Pinnacle Jeweling Wax
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Mike Phillips
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Normally you would use a foam “polishing” pad.
Mike Phillips
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I have an article on this...
Good rule of thumb when using an AIO - stick with foam polishing pads by Mike Phillips
What are you working on?
Good rule of thumb when using an AIO - stick with foam polishing pads by Mike Phillips
What are you working on?
craigv
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- Mar 29, 2015
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It's a 1957 Chevy Belair. "Matador Red" (orangeish red) It is 2 stage paint. I will have the swirls removed. It just want to take the finish as far as possible in the shine department. I have an orange Griots polish pad. I have a yellow Griots Boss polishing pad. I have a white Lake Country polishing pad. At least 6 pads per type to "work clean". I did a test spot and found the paint to be hard.
acuRAS82
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Mike,
correct me if I’m wrong, but if all polishing steps will be done by the OP prior (if the OP decides to go the below route and finishes down to near perfection during his normal polishing), would application of jeweling wax with a gold jeweling pad or CarPro gloss pad provide some extra dazzling shine/gloss to the final look?
Obviously this would provide no correction, but perhaps does something special (smoothness/gloss) to the final look of the paint? I’ve always wondered “when is the right time to use these jeweling pads?” It would seem that the OP has the car and desire for max shine to warrant this extra step?
Please advise, for my own knowledge, and more importantly to give the OP an extra option if it is a sensible one. Thank you!!!
correct me if I’m wrong, but if all polishing steps will be done by the OP prior (if the OP decides to go the below route and finishes down to near perfection during his normal polishing), would application of jeweling wax with a gold jeweling pad or CarPro gloss pad provide some extra dazzling shine/gloss to the final look?
Obviously this would provide no correction, but perhaps does something special (smoothness/gloss) to the final look of the paint? I’ve always wondered “when is the right time to use these jeweling pads?” It would seem that the OP has the car and desire for max shine to warrant this extra step?
Please advise, for my own knowledge, and more importantly to give the OP an extra option if it is a sensible one. Thank you!!!
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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•I’m not Mike, but IMO:
-Since the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is an AIO,
it contains a certain amount/type of abrasives
that’ll need a Polishing/AIO pad to fully put
these abrasives “through the mill”, so to say.
-That’s something that a Gold/Gloss-ing Jeweling
pad (and their much smoother/softer surface areas)
may have a difficult time accomplishing.
[Not saying it can’t be done, but: time is money;
(over)heat-ing is an enemy; and CCs are thin.]
Bob
Mike Phillips
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Very cool car. We've had dozens of Shoebox Chevys go through our detailing classes here at Autogeek over the last 10 years I've been here. I like them for classes because they have a lot of LARGE FLAT panels and this makes for a PERFECT learning canvas for first-time machine users.
We had a 1957 red Bel Air in our recent September class
BUSTING AT THE SEAMS! NEW RECORD FOR CARS IN THE GARAGE!
And before that a red 1957 Bel Air Hardtop that belonged to my very good friend who recently passed away, Earl Dempsey. We affectionately knew him as Earl the Plumber.
Detailing Class - FLEX XFE7-15mm Free Spinning Orbital Polisher
Last summer we had a red 1957 Chevy, don't remember if it was a Bel Air or not but I could find out by looking at more pictures from that day.
Pictures & Comments - 2018 New Jersey Roadshow Detailing Class
David Emmel
Here's David, he let us use his beautriful 1957 Chevy (in the background), for one of our training cars. David came in from Weehawken, New Jersey. I met David at SEMA last year when he came by the Autogeek booth to ask about his car and our detailing classes. It was great to see David follow-through from our conversation and get signed-up for and take both days of the New Jersey Roadshow Class.
Thank you David for your trust!
Before that was a sweet 1955 red Bel Air and a black 1955 210 and also a blue and white 1956 Bel Air Convertible, and these were all in a single class!
Pictures & Comments: May 2015 Detailing Boot Camp Class!
A huge thank you to everyone for all your focused attention throughout the 3-day class.
So yeah.... we get a lot of cool showbox Chevys like yours here at Autogeek and they are always fun to work on. Some are even a tick on the "different" side.
New Product Testing - Monster 4x4 1957 Chevy Bel Air
Just to make sure I'm reading the above correct? Do you mean you're going to have someone do the first step of removing the swirls and then you'll take over?
That's a pretty good selection for taking the finish as far as possible in the shine department and the Jeweling Wax will help you to do that.
If you FEEL the Griot's orange BOSS pad and compare to the FEEL of the Lake Country white foam polishing pad, you'll see they feel about the same. I've used Griot's BOSS orange light cutting pads as "polishing" pads as they are not that sharp for a cutting pad.
See the number of pads stacked up in the first picture of this review? (I try to show all the pads via a picture for all my projects to show people how many pads it takes to properly buff out a car)
Review: BLACKFIRE One-Step Cleaner/Wax by Mike Phillips
Then see what I wrote in post #119 in answer to questions asked in post #117 here,
Questions and answers in posts #117 and reply #119
The thing about doing a Test Spot and being NEW to machine polishing is that you can make a mistake diagnosing the results simply due to a lack of experience buffing out a LOT of cars. This is also the info I share in my how-to book,
The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine
On pages 7 and 8 I have a section on Hard Paint vs Soft Paint and go into detail about how you discover what you are working on via the Test Spot and what it says it you need experience otherwise you can misdiagnose the results.
Here's screenshots from that section of the book. I'm sharing this because I don't want anyone to take what I'm saying the wrong way and I'm doing this by showing that I believe in what I'm saying so strongly that I did in fact share this in my how-to book in an effort to help educate people that judging hard vs soft car paint takes experience plus technique and both come from buffing out a LOT of cars. Usually over years.
Here's page 8 and 9 of the book, the section on hard paint vs soft paint starts on page 7 though.
Here's sections of what I wrote taken with my phone and then uploaded to the gallery here on this forum.
So it's very possible that the paint on your 1957 Bel Air is in fact hard but it's also possible that it's not.
To help with this area of paint evaluation, YEARS ago I wrote this article. Take a moment to click the link and read through the 6 most common problems and then the 6 remedies and see if you're making any of the common mistakes.
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions...
800-869-3011 x206
craigv
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Mike and all the other posters.......I appreciate your responses.
Yea I'm a weekend warrior. Love to keep my vehicles as nice as possible. I detailed cars when I got out of college in the early 80's. Nobody wanted to hire a fresh graduate during the recession so I made ends meat detailing cars. Used a rotary and wool pads. Boy has detailing come a long way since then!
I have been using a DA polisher for the last 10 years. The results were adequate but I really didn't pay attention to the details and the technique till I join the forum and started learning from the experts. I can officially say I have a detailing sickness. In addition to the original Porter Cable DA which I have converted into my 3 inch polisher......I have acquired a Griots 15mm BOSS polisher and a Flex XFE7-15 "The Finisher". Not to mention all of the products bought from Auto Geek....Griots....Sonax etc etc.
Mike....to answer your inquiry, I will do all of the correction on the car. I am a DIY so I can put hours into making the paint it's best. The Belair is a new car for me so I am evaluating the paint and want to develop a process for it right from the beginning. All my other vehicles are daily drivers so the attention to "Show Car" shine is not a priority.
On the subject of the test spot.....I started with the least aggressive method and then evaluated the result. The combination used did not completely correct the paint so I increased the pad and product cut and conducted another test IN A DIFFERENT SPOT (wink). Better results but still not 100% corrected. Is this indicating "hard paint"? That's what I am thinking.
Again.....thanks for taking the time to respond guys. I'm soaking it all in.
Mike.....I missed your class last year at The Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Hopefully you are coming back at some point in the future so I can take the class.
Craig
Yea I'm a weekend warrior. Love to keep my vehicles as nice as possible. I detailed cars when I got out of college in the early 80's. Nobody wanted to hire a fresh graduate during the recession so I made ends meat detailing cars. Used a rotary and wool pads. Boy has detailing come a long way since then!
I have been using a DA polisher for the last 10 years. The results were adequate but I really didn't pay attention to the details and the technique till I join the forum and started learning from the experts. I can officially say I have a detailing sickness. In addition to the original Porter Cable DA which I have converted into my 3 inch polisher......I have acquired a Griots 15mm BOSS polisher and a Flex XFE7-15 "The Finisher". Not to mention all of the products bought from Auto Geek....Griots....Sonax etc etc.
Mike....to answer your inquiry, I will do all of the correction on the car. I am a DIY so I can put hours into making the paint it's best. The Belair is a new car for me so I am evaluating the paint and want to develop a process for it right from the beginning. All my other vehicles are daily drivers so the attention to "Show Car" shine is not a priority.
On the subject of the test spot.....I started with the least aggressive method and then evaluated the result. The combination used did not completely correct the paint so I increased the pad and product cut and conducted another test IN A DIFFERENT SPOT (wink). Better results but still not 100% corrected. Is this indicating "hard paint"? That's what I am thinking.
Again.....thanks for taking the time to respond guys. I'm soaking it all in.
Mike.....I missed your class last year at The Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Hopefully you are coming back at some point in the future so I can take the class.
Craig
Mike Phillips
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I'd say many of us started the same way, that is wool pad on a rotary. Back in the old days, that's all that we had or all that was easily available.
A local tool rental shop in my home town called, Snell Tool Rental, rented out an old rotary buffer with a wool pad and some kind of Wonder Polish for about $15.00 for an entire weekend. The wool pad on that buffer looked like it had seen hundreds of cars over the years including my 1974 Triumph Spitfire that I painted white with Pearl Blue.
Yep - you're definitely one of us.
Copy that, just wasn't sure from how you worded the sentence. I have met people and worked for guys that are happy to let me do the hard part, (the correction), and then after the detail job they'll take over down the road.
Could be. The key is technique and there's different technique for the different tools you listed that you own.
Basic technique for correction work would be,
High speed on your orbital
Medium to heavy downward pressure - (long stroke is usually less downward pressure)
Use the right pad
Use enough product - I'm NOT a pea sized drop guy
Make at least 8 section passes
Don't tackle 2' x 2' size areas - this is too large for any free spinning tool. With the FLEX 3401 you can go this big
Working on locations today, tomorrow and next week. Compared to Stuart, Florida, for most people we should be in driving distance.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Here's an example of a guy that had the right tools, the right pads etc. but did not use the right technique
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...her-trouble-shooting-guide-2.html#post1613926
My class went on to fix his car so now he just has to maintain it.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...her-trouble-shooting-guide-2.html#post1613926
My class went on to fix his car so now he just has to maintain it.
acuRAS82
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- May 30, 2017
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Thanks Bob. Makes sense. I’m just trying to figure out what these super soft pads are designed for. Gloss pads supposedly work really well with Essence and I figured Pinnacle Jewelibg Wax is a similar fine abrasive... but I do agree that using these pads is defeating part of the abrasive purpose of the AIO
craigv
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- Mar 29, 2015
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*Update* I’m still evaluating the paint on the Belair. I won’t be correcting the paint till spring so I have time to dial in the process. I performed another test spot. The first pass I used the FLEX XFE 7-15 and a Lake Country Thin Pro Orange pad coupled with Griots “Correcting Creme”. Mike mentioned the LC orange pad has sharp cutting ability. I made 6 passes. The results show some light marks remaining.
Next up was the same machine with a Griots finishing Microfiber pad. I used the same correcting cream and made 6 passes. The result was better with very light marks remaining.
Am I splitting hairs? Or....should I just move to a finishing polish which might take out the last light defects? I can still go up to the GG Fast Correcting Creme and Microfiber.
It’s my personal car so whatever it takes. Just want to do it right and not “Work Backwards”
Next up was the same machine with a Griots finishing Microfiber pad. I used the same correcting cream and made 6 passes. The result was better with very light marks remaining.
Am I splitting hairs? Or....should I just move to a finishing polish which might take out the last light defects? I can still go up to the GG Fast Correcting Creme and Microfiber.
It’s my personal car so whatever it takes. Just want to do it right and not “Work Backwards”