Please help.... Very Confused

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payj

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Hello!

So I have tried this(post what to get) but even with the replies I just cant make myself pull the trigger on some gear. I just get very discouraged due to the confusion and lack of experience. I have tried to do a little hw over the years but never really get a grasp on even what to buy as opinions vary and there are a plethora of products. So please lay it out for me!!! :) :)

I have an 01 acura cl in silver. In the last 10 years the most it has gotten is a weekly wash in the summers and a every 6 month carnauba wax every 6 months or so with clay at 6 months as well. Thats it. Do to it being silver it looks deacent after the process, but far far far from where it could be. I live in seattle so it gets hammered daily with rain, splash etc.

I want to get a small by A1 set up. 3401, but might as well just wait for the xce. Beyond that piece of hardware i am almost a fish out of water.


The confusion sets in with polishes,pads so forth. I think I want to stick with menzerna polishes. Idk why, bottle looks cool and it gets good reviews hahah. Ive read so much stuff is marketing that it doesnt matter as long as its good and this brand is.

So, what "levels" or "cuts" should I get for my car? Also, what pads? What steps should i take in the process? To add, i also need towels, wash pads etc etc

I also want an excellent carnuba to hand apply. What is the best? Especially silver.


Ps: a good headlight restore and wheel kit.



Thx!

Sent On The Fly
 
Start another thread: "Help needed in Seattle"

There are Certainly a few Geeks in your area who would be able to give you some hands on experience with polishers, pads and potions; that would help you decide what fits your needs.
 
You'll want to apply the nuba by machine too, it's faster and you get a nice thin coat, even coverage and save a lot of product.
 
I'd be looking at sealants if I were you. Easy application and removal and better durability than waxes.
Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax (it's actually a sealer)
Menzerna Power Lock

Sounds like a good all in one might do wonders for your car. HD Speed gets awesome reviews on here. It cleans, has some cut to remove swirls, and leaves some sealant for protection.

The Griots Garage 6" DA is often recommended on here for new guys. Lifetime warranty and a little more power than a Porter Cable. Pick up some orange, white, and gray Lake Country flat pads, depending on your needs (also recommended to new guys). That would get you going.

If you want a multiple step process, the Menzerna 400, 2500, 3500 were recommended to me when I was asking these same questions. Finish with a sealant.
 
If you're not doing production detailing, it's fine to apply last step products (waxes/sealants) by hand. But for polishing and defect removal, you'll want a machine.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
So, based on your stated preferences, get one of these, or wait for the version with the new Flex:

Menzerna polishes for ceramic clear coat paint, Flex buffer, Nano polish, super intensive, Lake Country pads, Show car kit

Menzerna FLEX XC3401 Maximum Shine Kit
Click to expand...

I would say go with the first one instead. If you're just getting started you don't need 400. You need to work on your technique.
I would also get the smaller backing plate to go with it since it's your only machine. Get some 5" hybrid pads to go with that.
If your headlights need to be corrected, McKee's 37 AIO Headlight Restoring Polish is the only way to go.
 
Thank you very much for the replies!

The Menzerna 3401 kit seems like a solid way to go.

Couple questions:

The different bottles with different #s are different grit right? These grits, should be matched with the correct color pad right? So what pad color matches to what grit level? And what happens if you were to miss match that combo? Does it just not work as effectively or can harm be done to the paint?

How do you know what level to start with or how the you are "cutting" enough? One step, two step, three step...process is that referring to going down to the grittiest (menz 400 or?) And then working your way back up? What would happen if you only did 400? Would it leave your paint dull looking?

Correction? Is that talking about what is needed to remove swirls and damage to the paint? Which is then attempeted to be accomplished by the least gritty polish first then if swirls are still seen moved down to a grittier polish? If so, i would assume you have to then polish the whole car again in a higher # polish as to bring the shine back up? Sort of referencing the previous paragraph a bit.

Is the term sealant, finishing product, last coat all referring to the wax at the end? Is it common for a diy to use a machine for a polish then wax by hand? Some of the $100 waxes that piqued my interest seemed to be hand application only?

Can you hurt the car paint with a da? How hard do you typically press down? How do you know you're pressing too hard and you need to change to a grittier posih/pad combo?

Im sure ive got more Qs ha!

Thank you!

Sent On The Fly
 
payj said:
Thank you very much for the replies!

The Menzerna 3401 kit seems like a solid way to go.

Couple questions:

The different bottles with different #s are different grit right? These grits, should be matched with the correct color pad right? So what pad color matches to what grit level? And what happens if you were to miss match that combo? Does it just not work as effectively or can harm be done to the paint?

How do you know what level to start with or how the you are "cutting" enough? One step, two step, three step...process is that referring to going down to the grittiest (menz 400 or?) And then working your way back up? What would happen if you only did 400? Would it leave your paint dull looking?

Correction? Is that talking about what is needed to remove swirls and damage to the paint? Which is then attempeted to be accomplished by the least gritty polish first then if swirls are still seen moved down to a grittier polish? If so, i would assume you have to then polish the whole car again in a higher # polish as to bring the shine back up? Sort of referencing the previous paragraph a bit.

Is the term sealant, finishing product, last coat all referring to the wax at the end? Is it common for a diy to use a machine for a polish then wax by hand? Some of the $100 waxes that piqued my interest seemed to be hand application only?

Can you hurt the car paint with a da? How hard do you typically press down? How do you know you're pressing too hard and you need to change to a grittier posih/pad combo?

Im sure ive got more Qs ha!

Thank you!

Sent On The Fly
Click to expand...


You start with a test spot and determine your plan of attack.

Every paint can vary from hardness softness, and this is called the paints "polishing ability"

So you basically start with a fine polish and a polish pad, tape off a section do one side, work the polish.

Don't be fooled by the gloss, it's polish it's naturally going to look glossier, inspect the panel WITH AN INSPECTION LIGHT

(THIS IS THE NUMBER ONE MISTAKE MADE BY NEWBIES THEY DON'T USE INSPECTION LIGHTS TO SEE WHAT THEY HAVE TAKEN, OR NOT TAKEN OUT)

if you see a good amount of the swirls and defects gone (or it is to your satisfaction)

You either go with that OR you bump up pad aggression.

So for example, a finishing polish with a compounding pad, that will give you some extra cut if you need it.

If that doesn't work you try the compound cutting pad and the compound.

Then you follow behind that with the polish and polishing pad.

If your going to use a Porter cable or GG6, I would recommend using a meguiras microfiber cutting disc as they cut better and faster, and will make that machine seem a little more powerful.

Pressure is important with these machines, as you need to apply about 12-15 lbs of pressure while compounding, polishing not so much.

If you just want to make your paint shinier, gloss/paint enhancement and not to remove every defect.

You don't have to do multiple steps to do that.

You can use a product like HD speed, menzerna 3 in 1, XMT 360, griots finishing sealant.

Those are all in one's that will polish and leave protection behind.

All in one step.
 
Thank you for the reply.

What is the best light to get?

Is it common practice to use the same polish/compound and use a grittier pad BEFORE going to a gritter compound? Or can you do it the other way around? Personal preference?

How about my question just using 400 grit only and the paint? This is a curiosity to help me understand the concept.

Hypothetically, using two compounds such as 1500 and 3500. You would do the entire car in 1500 THEN the entire car to 3500 right? This HAS to be done in order to bring the sheen back up correct?

Using a 3401 to do all the work including wax if its 3 in one.....would it hurt to hand wax over that? I just like doing that I guess.

Can someone explain the pads a bit? I have read what they are in terms of this subject, but having it spelled out abc 123 lamen terms would be a huge help!

Using the 3401 with said pads and menz can I hurt my car unintentially?

Sent On The Fly
 
Somebody shoot me.I know wrong forum.But pleeeez I'm a noobie on Interwebz.However he tells me Local HARLEY shop 300.00$ detail his ROAD KING.ILL leave local FORD DEALER now.Does this sound correct.H.D.stands for hundred dollars$$$$ I know,career change in the making...HELPPPPPP
 
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